weld failure?

[lt190b]

This is a caster yolk from my mower. Can you tell from the pictures if this is a welding failure or abuse?

 

[k0ua]

Opinions are like ... and everyone has one. Here is mine.. It was never welded properly in the first place. It was welded with a MIG, and it wasn't turned up enough. Too much metal not enough heat to get really good penetration. Grind that off and stick weld it with some 7018 1/8 at at least 125 amps or more. If you can let the shaft down a little bit to get more of the rod to weld to and make it stronger with multiple passes. Like I said it is just an opinion. "there are many like it, but this one is mine".

 

[ArlyA]

Not enough info. Could be either....

 

[Rustyiron]

The part looks nearly unused, unless you scrubbed it clean for the pic. I agree with James assessment.

 

[Shield Arc]

That is the big problem with Mig welding. People run them too cold. Even when a Mig weld is run cold, it looks good. BUT IT'S NOT!

 

[kthompson]

Man I was a welding inspector for a large heavy equipment company years ago and this sure brought back memories. From the picture I agree with the above post. I will also add to me it looks like the joint design did not allow for sufficient weld size for the load. Now all being said that is based upon what I see in the picture. Is there a reason the shaft is not welded on the other side of the metal it runs through?

 

[Spanner]

Man I was a welding inspector for a large heavy equipment company years ago and this sure brought back memories. From the picture I agree with the above post. I will also add to me it looks like the joint design did not allow for sufficient weld size for the load. Now all being said that is based upon what I see in the picture. Is there a reason the shaft is not welded on the other side of the metal it runs through?

Seconded:

The part looks like a swiveling castor wheel support and they usually rotate around the round-bar post in a bushing which sits on the upper surface. Welding there causes an imperfect seating area and would not allow free rotation.

It's not a great fabrication but quite a common style of design in the grass industry.

A 'stepped' post would be a better design but more expensive to manufacture so the $ales Dept. wins over the Service Dept.

 

[TMGT]

In my opinion that's a poor design, weld could have been better but either way the design isn't adaquate. Either needs to be welded in two spaced places as was stated already or at least have a heavier "block" for the shaft and a press fit.

 

[LD1]

Its quite obvious that its a welding failure....the weld broke.

But the question is was the failure from abuse? Or a bad weld? or a Bad design? OR a combination of the above?

It dont matter how strong something is built, or how well it is welded, there is always someone who can tear it up.

I agree its a cheap design. But its probably on a cheap light duty cutter so what do you expect? Weld it back on and use it til it fails again. But good tailwheels ARE welded in two places. Usually the U shape fork has a second piece welded in about two inches below the top. The shaft goes through TWO pieces of metal and not just one.

Like
King Kutter Rotary Cutter Wheel Fork 419 by King Kutter Inc for $67.97 in King Kutter - Brands : Rural King

or Wheel Fork | Agri Supply 63739

 

[TMGT]

I could be wrong but I first thought it was the front caster for a zero turn, looked like from a gravely . Maybe wrong but I doubt it was from a rotory cutter.

Now I'm kinda curious what it's off of.

 

[LD1]

I could be wrong but I first thought it was the front caster for a zero turn, looked like from a gravely . Maybe wrong but I doubt it was from a rotory cutter.

Now I'm kinda curious what it's off of.

You could be right. Just saw yolk off a mower and assumed rotary cutter.

 

[lt190b]

TBNers, thanks for your opinions and comments. This is a front caster from a gravely ZD HD. It is 3 month old and has 40+ HRS. on it. It mows the same ground a cub cadet 3204 mowed and has the same driver (my wife). This is the second caster to fail in this 3 month period. The first one I rewelded, to get back in service. The dealer furnished a new one. We'll see what happens now. Thanks again.

 

[k0ua]

Yeah, I think from what we know now, a redesign of that caster/shaft is in order. The shaft probably needs to be longer to allow welding on the top too. The design of just welding on the little tit of a shaft coming thru the piece of steel on the yoke is not a very good one. Let along doing it with a MIG that is not hot enough to really penetrate the parent metal of the yoke very well. I did not see any of the Yoke metal jerked out when the weld failed. It appeared to be intact around the edge of the hole. This lead me to think the weld was not too good to begin with, but yes in reality the design is not ideal either.

 

[yomax4]

TBNers, thanks for your opinions and comments. This is a front caster from a gravely ZD HD. It is 3 month old and has 40+ HRS. on it. It mows the same ground a cub cadet 3204 mowed and has the same driver (my wife). This is the second caster to fail in this 3 month period. The first one I rewelded, to get back in service. The dealer furnished a new one. We'll see what happens now. Thanks again.

I have 2 of that same mower. They get P'pounded on 4 acres of yard and 4 acres of orchard and food plots. Very Rough ground. ( poor wife ) Never had a prob. My 1st was a Cub Cadet and that is why I have Gravely now. Maybe the newbie welder at Gravely got moved over to the CNC table and the problem will go away.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

This is a caster yolk from my mower. Can you tell from the pictures if this is a welding failure or abuse?View attachment 514373View attachment 514374View attachment 514375

Welcome to today's production MIG welding. QA on stuff like implements is visual examination only. I have had several instances in the last 10 years where welds looked perfect but failed early in life. Inspection of the breaks always shows a weld on the surface only and no penetration into the joint. They never heard of beveling; parts are always cut square and butted tight to each other. Most this stuff is 3/16-5/16 steel (3/8 sometimes); so, a hot stinger should penetrate to center easily. I still bevel such parts for insurance and stick weld. I usually run a lot hotter than most folks also. Pipe welders don't mess around with cold stingers. Weld both sides? What is that? One Kubota item, still in warranty, it took me 1/2 hour to convince the service manager (he is not a former mechanic) that it was a factory defect. The shop foreman heard us arguing, wandered over, one look and he backed me up. I received a new $450 part on the spot.

Ron

Ron

 

[k0ua]

Welcome to today's production MIG welding. QA on stuff like implements is visual examination only. I have had several instances in the last 10 years where welds looked perfect but failed early in life. Inspection of the breaks always shows a weld on the surface only and no penetration into the joint. They never heard of beveling; parts are always cut square and butted tight to each other. Most this stuff is 3/16-5/16 steel (3/8 sometimes); so, a hot stinger should penetrate to center easily. I still bevel such parts for insurance and stick weld. I usually run a lot hotter than most folks also. Pipe welders don't mess around with cold stingers. Weld both sides? What is that? One Kubota item, still in warranty, it took me 1/2 hour to convince the service manager (he is not a former mechanic) that it was a factory defect. The shop foreman heard us arguing, wandered over, one look and he backed me up. I received a new $450 part on the spot.

Ron

Ron

Yep. It looked to me from the photo there was no penetration into the yoke square component at all. Sure didn't see any metal yanked out. Now it is not like holding the piece in your hands and really inspecting it, but that was my impression.

 

[lt190b]

Thanks to all who posted comments. The dealer called and said he had talked to gravely, said they had a production run with some problems. The one I "fixed" is still on the mower, I replaced the second broken one with the replacement one, it is a little different than the original ones. When I get the other new one (#2) I will post a picture of their fix so you can see it. To be continued.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks to all who posted comments. The dealer called and said he had talked to gravely, said they had a production run with some problems. The one I "fixed" is still on the mower, I replaced the second broken one with the replacement one, it is a little different than the original ones. When I get the other new one (#2) I will post a picture of their fix so you can see it. To be continued.

Thanks for getting back with us, I look forward to seeing how they redesign this.

 

[yomax4]

Gravely actually went with a much heavier front yoke on the 2017 models. Larger shaft and as stated above, The shaft sticks out a little more to allow more weld. They also had weight distribution issues causing traction concerns. They fixed that with very large rear tires and a frame redesign. They also threw in a newer design and very comfy new seat to boot.

 

[flyerdan]

Definitely a design / fabrication issue. That shaft should have been beveled to allow for a good fill, and since burn through isn't likely, pour some amps to it, I'd probably do 145-160. Properly welded, an abuse failure on that part should have the shaft looking like a bent nail before it pulled out.