Me and Donald Trump strongly disagree with that 7014 rod fill hole easy idea and offer an alternate rebuttal and give an alternat fact, 6011 is the go-to easy hole filling rod. I do like 7014 the best for a no gap/hole welding rod, but in a buts, holes and gaps the extra flux is easier to get trapped in the molten puddle and result is slag entrapment which will cause a catastrophic failure on fixing a square hay baler, and could end up with round bales instead.
Welding Rods for beginners
- Thread starter daugen
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Me and Donald Trump strongly disagree with that 7014 rod fill hole easy idea and offer an alternate rebuttal and give an alternat fact, 6011 is the go-to easy hole filling rod. I do like 7014 the best for a no gap/hole welding rod, but in a buts, holes and gaps the extra flux is easier to get trapped in the molten puddle and result is slag entrapment which will cause a catastrophic failure on fixing a square hay baler, and could end up with round bales instead.
Shield Arc
Super Member
I would Tig weld the cracks!
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
I would Tig weld the cracks!
Me too, I like tig welding
But I'd most likely mig them, fast and easy.
If outside, likely self-shielded flux core or 3/32" 6013 or 7018 or 7014 - no particular preference on rod.
Deere Dude
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You won't know until you start if you are going to burn through with the rods you have. Then you have a bigger mess. For thin stuff I don't have a wire welder but I use a 110 volt stick welder using 1/16" rods. I burn through a whole lot less because of the less amperage. I like going over it with other steel idea.
OP
daugen
Epic Contributor
if you want a good laugh, and a well deserved groan for the evening, well I've got it for you.
My first weld. What a mess.
3/32 7014 varied between 85 and 95 amps, worked pretty good on sample pieces in first pic.
Then I went to the deck and it just dissolved away from me.
Come back Come back he said to the deck....sigh. Ok, held rod way too close and burned through.
Looks horrible.
Good news is one hundred percent of this area is being covered with fresh metal, so this is my training ground.
Had real problems seeing, yes worked better with half stick so I could get closer and see better what was going on.
Some times I missed the cracks totally. A few I did pretty well, though doesn't show here.
The deck is much stronger now despite the horrible welds. In the cool of the morning tomorrow without sweat in my eyes I'm redoing some of these
my first weld. Pretty dreadful actually.
Well, can only improve.
Getting that helmet properly adjusted is a first step, and next installing the 2x magnifier into the
eyepiece so I don't have to get so close to see anything.
Wasn't really sure the autodimming was working right. Need to check the batteries in the helmet.
am thinking now I should have used a thicker rod and held it further away for more deposition and less cutting. I seemed to cut well...
had Hobart shirt on, heavy gloves, heat index over 90, a drippy first attempt.
Want to try this when I'm cooler in morning. This afternoon was a sauna here, even with a fan on me.
My first weld. What a mess.
3/32 7014 varied between 85 and 95 amps, worked pretty good on sample pieces in first pic.
Then I went to the deck and it just dissolved away from me.
Come back Come back he said to the deck....sigh. Ok, held rod way too close and burned through.
Looks horrible.
Good news is one hundred percent of this area is being covered with fresh metal, so this is my training ground.
Had real problems seeing, yes worked better with half stick so I could get closer and see better what was going on.
Some times I missed the cracks totally. A few I did pretty well, though doesn't show here.
The deck is much stronger now despite the horrible welds. In the cool of the morning tomorrow without sweat in my eyes I'm redoing some of these
my first weld. Pretty dreadful actually.
Well, can only improve.
Getting that helmet properly adjusted is a first step, and next installing the 2x magnifier into the
eyepiece so I don't have to get so close to see anything.
Wasn't really sure the autodimming was working right. Need to check the batteries in the helmet.
am thinking now I should have used a thicker rod and held it further away for more deposition and less cutting. I seemed to cut well...
had Hobart shirt on, heavy gloves, heat index over 90, a drippy first attempt.
Want to try this when I'm cooler in morning. This afternoon was a sauna here, even with a fan on me.
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DJ54
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Projects like that are exactly why I bought my little Lincoln 110v unit, w/gas. Weld a bit, letting cool, working from the outside in of the crack/hole, to fill to the middle. I usually start in the middle, and work out both ways, so as to let it cool, while working on the other end, plus letting it expand outward.
Patched my old Wheel Horse deck 6 years ago, and still holding strong. Even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then...
Patched my old Wheel Horse deck 6 years ago, and still holding strong. Even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then...
aczlan
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It looks like you need a welding spoon ( heavy copper plate with a handle on it) to put on the back side so that you can fill that gap without burning through any further.
Aaron Z
Aaron Z
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Daugen, you do NOT need larger rods. Larger rods go hand in hand with more current. More current is the last thing you need for welding sheet metal. You do NOT need a longer arc either. Set your current down to the lower end of the range 80 amps and work on the edges and hold a very tight arc and move fast enough to keep from burning thru. Filling holes is kind of a skill thing. Not really for beginners. It takes some practice. A welding spoon could help but you would have to have someone hold it up under the deck or get a chunk of copper pressed up under there and clamped in some manner. I don't have anything like that, and I would just concentrate on welding the periphery of the now large trench you have made. Keep moving and make small welds, and get rid of slag, let it cool a few seconds, and add some more weld bead. This is not easy. It requires concentration to build up weld on an edge. I have repaired shovels by rebuilding the edge and regrinding them, but it takes some time.
Also, this would likely be easier with a MIG, which you don't have, or even a gas rig if you had the gas rig and the skill which you don't have either. BUT you can do this with 3/32 7014 and your DC welder. I wish I was there to help you. I really do.
Keep moving and make small welds, and get rid of slag, let it cool a few seconds, and add some more weld bead. This is not easy. It requires concentration to build up weld on an edge. I have repaired shovels by rebuilding the edge and regrinding them, but it takes some time.Also, this would likely be easier with a MIG, which you don't have, or even a gas rig if you had the gas rig and the skill which you don't have either. BUT you can do this with 3/32 7014 and your DC welder. I wish I was there to help you. I really do.
Shield Arc
Super Member
daugen a project like that, a Tig rig would be the way to go.
TIG Welding Torch Set 2 A 25&# 39; Valve Head Air-Cool 26V-25R w/ Gloves | US Seller
TIG Welding Torch Set 2 A 25&# 39; Valve Head Air-Cool 26V-25R w/ Gloves | US Seller
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k0ua
Epic Contributor
without a doubt I would attack it with the TIG too, but given what he has, would you make some recommendations for trying to get those holes closed with stick? I would try to do it with 7014. But you have a lot more experience than I do.. what say you.
