What is the proper way to install a 3 pt rear blade

ishiboo · Jan 7, 2013

TerryR said:
Several posters suggested shortening the top link. I don't understand how you could do that. Whenever I plow snow I turn the blade fairly sharply to one side so the snow is discharged to the side as I plow. If I were to shorten the top link the leading end of the blade would dig sharply into the road while the trailing end would be high in the air. I always have to keep the frame nearly level to keep the blade parallel with the road along its length.

Terry

I've found the lighter tractors (I have an L3650) have plenty of horsepower to pull the snow, but when you angle the blade sharply the snow can easily push the front end around. So I angle the blade only to the first notch - it "pulls" more snow along (which the tractor has the horsepower for) but due to the slight angle, it doesn't push the tractor around as much.

This is contrary to what you try first by giving the blade a bunch of angle to discharge the snow as fast as possible.

94BULLITT · Jan 7, 2013

TerryR said:
Several posters suggested shortening the top link. I don't understand how you could do that. Whenever I plow snow I turn the blade fairly sharply to one side so the snow is discharged to the side as I plow. If I were to shorten the top link the leading end of the blade would dig sharply into the road while the trailing end would be high in the air. I always have to keep the frame nearly level to keep the blade parallel with the road along its length.

Terry

You need to adjust the sidelink to level it.

TerryR · Jan 7, 2013

94BULLITT said:
You need to adjust the sidelink to level it.

There isn't enough range in the sidelink adjustment on my JD 870 to overcome any noticeable amount slant to the frame. In fact, I mostly ignore the sidelink adjustment when I do want to cant the blade at an angle to clear the ditch, and adjust with the top link instead. Do other tractors have more range in the sidelink adjustment?

Terry

TerryR · Jan 7, 2013

ishiboo said:
I've found the lighter tractors (I have an L3650) have plenty of horsepower to pull the snow, but when you angle the blade sharply the snow can easily push the front end around. So I angle the blade only to the first notch - it "pulls" more snow along (which the tractor has the horsepower for) but due to the slight angle, it doesn't push the tractor around as much.

Yes, and you can end up in the ditch, as I know from experience. :-/

I find a bit more speed in plowing works better than a sharper angle. Still, even at the first notch on my blade, there's to much angle added to the blade if I don't keep the frame nearly level, even after adjusting the sidelink as far as it goes.

Terry

Gordon Gould · Jan 7, 2013

TerryR said:
Several posters suggested shortening the top link. I don't understand how you could do that. Whenever I plow snow I turn the blade fairly sharply to one side so the snow is discharged to the side as I plow. If I were to shorten the top link the leading end of the blade would dig sharply into the road while the trailing end would be high in the air. I always have to keep the frame nearly level to keep the blade parallel with the road along its length.Terry

I agree. That was the point I was trying to make in that long discourse. But if someone insists on shortening the top link, which is OK with me, to make the blade less aggressive it may float up on you.
I keep the frame and blade level like you do so that I can put the blade at any angle w/o readjustments. If it digs in I just raise it a little.

MtnViewRanch · Jan 7, 2013

TerryR said:
There isn't enough range in the sidelink adjustment on my JD 870 to overcome any noticeable amount slant to the frame. In fact, I mostly ignore the sidelink adjustment when I do want to cant the blade at an angle to clear the ditch, and adjust with the top link instead. Do other tractors have more range in the sidelink adjustment?

Terry

You should be able to get about 10 degrees of tilt to either side with your side link adjustment.

Bill Hoffman · Jan 7, 2013

If you replace both vertical 3 point links with chains, the rear blade will follow
the contours of your driveway and not dig in. I started doing this about 6 years
ago when I found that the rear blade would gouge my gravel driveway.
Replacing the 3 point links with chain lengths that allow the blade to "float",
and hey presto, no more driveway damage. The blade is heavy enough to cut
down through the snow to the bottom. When you raise the 3 point, the chains
tighten up and raise the blade. Couldn't be simpler. The blade follows the driveway
contour and not the movement of the tractor (except, of course, the pulling
motion).