What size hiller disks to buy?

[Haywire]

I'm going to make a one row disk hiller/bedder in the coming weeks. I have no experience in these things. What size disks should I get? I see 12", 14", and 16" disks with 16" or 22" shanks. I'll be pulling it with my 2660 and will be making a T frame like BriarHillBrittanys made.

I was concerned about the lift height on my scut and the larger disks clearing both the ground and the tool bar. Does my concern have any merit?

thanks,
Ian

 

[Haywire]

44 views and no suggestions... LOL.. I bought the metal for the frame today. I suppose I'll make the frame, mount it to the tractor, and do the math to see what I have room for.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

Noticed that the GB48 48" bedder that EA sells has 12" disks and the GB50 48" bedder has 14" disks. Both of them have two 3pt pin locations, a low one for SCUTs and a high one for bigger tractors.

Ian

 

[204saskman]

I would probly go with the 14" disks just to give you the extra height. I might build one of these too as i have some spare time on my hand with a broken knee cap. Post pics of ur build.

 

[Chilly807]

I've been giving some thought to building one of these too. The part that has me wondering is exactly where to have the discs positioned from side to side.

I'm thinking the spacing between them definitely has to be adjustable too, at least at first until some trial runs have been done. I may just tack weld them at what I think is the right spacing, then weld 'em solid if they work well.

As for side to side, you need to be able to make one hill and have one set of wheels in the row between it and the previous hill.

Any concerns with it riding on top of the ground and not digging enough to make a hill? Might need to add weight.

I may end up just making a set of spoon/teardrop shaped paddles to plow the loose ground into a hill instead of using discs, although I think the rotating discs would last a lot longer.

As for disc size, think about how deep you want to be able to reach to get enough dirt to make your hills. I normally plow about 6-7 inches deep, below that is going to be hard ground. So, allowing an inch or two for some sort of hub assembly, anything bigger than 14 inches is going to be a waste anyway.

Were you thinking of using dished discs, or flat? Something tells me the dished ones might be better, I've no experience with this type of hiller though.

Sean

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

The discs on mine, are 16" w/16" shank. At first I wished I would have got the 22" shank. When it was used last year, the 16" shank proved to be plenty. Also have plenty of up and down adjustment with the clamps. My rows were laid out with the tractor, allowing me to cultivate. I have a 2 row Dearborn cultivator, but set it up for 1 row (I'm not cultivating numerous acres), and cultivated the rows before I hilled them. The discs threw the dirt up around the plants slicker than greasy BBs. No problems not digging enough to throw. I made them adjustable to move as the plants grew, requiring wider hills. I'd like to mount a furrow attachment to the hiller, for laying out rows before planting. Mark

 

[Haywire]

I've been giving some thought to building one of these too. The part that has me wondering is exactly where to have the discs positioned from side to side.

I'm thinking the spacing between them definitely has to be adjustable too, at least at first until some trial runs have been done. I may just tack weld them at what I think is the right spacing, then weld 'em solid if they work well.

As for side to side, you need to be able to make one hill and have one set of wheels in the row between it and the previous hill.

Any concerns with it riding on top of the ground and not digging enough to make a hill? Might need to add weight.

I may end up just making a set of spoon/teardrop shaped paddles to plow the loose ground into a hill instead of using discs, although I think the rotating discs would last a lot longer.

As for disc size, think about how deep you want to be able to reach to get enough dirt to make your hills. I normally plow about 6-7 inches deep, below that is going to be hard ground. So, allowing an inch or two for some sort of hub assembly, anything bigger than 14 inches is going to be a waste anyway.

Were you thinking of using dished discs, or flat? Something tells me the dished ones might be better, I've no experience with this type of hiller though.

Sean

If you look at the picture, the disks are held onto the tool bar with a sliding bolt on bracket. They are infinitely adjustable back and forth along the toolbar. On mine, instead of 4 individual bolts holding the brackets to the toolbar, I am going to use 2 square u-bolts so I can adjust them with just one tool.

The hiller disks they sell are all dished. Check it out. Do a search there and you'll find all the disk hiller assemblies. Including shipping they cost about $95 a pair for me.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

I would probly go with the 14" disks just to give you the extra height. I might build one of these too as i have some spare time on my hand with a broken knee cap. Post pics of ur build.

Just look at the pic I posted of Briar Hill Brittanys hiller. It's going to be a carbon copy down to the orange paint (I already have a can of Kubota Orange on hand) :laughing:

It's going to be a few weeks before I get it done. I've gone a little `round the bend on implements.. picking up a 12" one bottom on Saturday and a cultivator on Sunday. On Thursday of next week, I am going in halves with a buddy on a Dewalt 14" chop saw so we can make some straight cuts on the metal. I need (want) it for various projects to do with the tractor toy and he needs (wants) it for his rock crawler Toyota toy.

Ian

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Just look at the pic I posted of Briar Hill Brittanys hiller. It's going to be a carbon copy down to the orange paint (I already have a can of Kubota Orange on hand) :laughing:

Uhhm.....Well actually, that's A/C orange .

Mark

 

[Haywire]

Uhhm.....Well actually, that's A/C orange .

Mark

I can't help it that you bought the wrong paint... :confused3:

 

[jimgerken]

HAYWIRE: I followed the link you provided to the Agri Supply page. Those are nice disc assemblies. Do you know what part would be used to attach them to a toolbar of sorts? Do you think it is this thing? :
WEDGE CLAMP W/SET SCREWS - Agri Supply

Thanks!

 

[Haywire]

Yep, that along with the wedge bolt. Keep in mind that clamp needs a 1.5" tool bar.

I'm not going that route though. If you see what BHB did, he made a clamp out of a couple pieces of scrap plate and some thick walled tube. I'm deviating a little from that but going basically the same route. I'm trying to do this on the cheap and don't want to spend cash on the store bought clamps.

Ian

 

[jimgerken]

OK, cool. Is the desired toolbar a 1.5" square tube? thanks Haywire.

 

[Haywire]

I think... but am not sure, that the original implements these were designed to fit had solid tool bars. I suppose it depends on how much horsepower you plan on hitching it to.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've owned my little tractor for a grand total of 5 months and everything I think I know I've picked up this winter and spring.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

Here's what I came up with.

14" disks
4" of clearance between the disk and the toolbar.
With lower arms level, disk will be 3" below grade.
With arms all the way up, disks will be 6" above grade
With arms all the way down, disks will be 10" below grade.

 

[jwillett]

Here is what I just set up, 14" disk with 22" shanks on an old frame found in the woods at the farm. It worked fine for the ground being so wet, can only get to the farm on weekends so I have to go for it when I am there.

This clamp really holds the disc well.

I am working on a new frame that can be used as an all out bedder too, 2"x2"x.25" tubbing and 2"x2.5"x.375" angle . Just need the time and the right scrap steel to show up.

Jim

 

[Haywire]

And.... here's my copy. Paint not finished on what I welded up today. It works, although I think it might need a shelf to hold a couple concrete blocks. It didn't want to cut the rain packed dirt very well. I'm still adjusting the angles to get it doing what I want it to do.

I didn't think to put a pin through the holes in the top link brackets when I welded them on so naturally it's just off enough not to allow the pin through. I got a 1/2" bolt in there. It might just stay that way. I welded it between the brackets, so I can't fit a cutoff wheel in there to cut the weld loose. :laughing:

Oh, and no complaints about my welding... I burned my first stick about 48 hours ago. :thumbsup:

Ian

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Looks good! Never thought about a weight attachment, good idea. How big a hill were you able to throw with it? Mine works better when the soil is fairly dry. Does a good job on the potato rows. Mark

 

[Haywire]

It wouldn't do much without several passes. Ground is wet and packed from the beating it got from the rain the past couple months.

I wanted to plant corn tomorrow and thought to break the ground up, I would pull a deep furrow with the middlebuster and then toss it back in with the hiller. Looks like they're forecasting rain again tomorrow though.

I couldn't let that top link bracket stay crooked. I cut three welds and the 4th broke with just a little encouragement from a hammer. Ground the old weld off, put a pin through and welded it back on. Got it painted this evening.

Now I'm looking at adding a second toolbar so I can mount 2 rows of cultivator shanks. The extra square tube will add to the weight also so the hiller should work better.

Ian

 

[kubotakid USA]

Looks good! Never thought about a weight attachment, good idea. How big a hill were you able to throw with it? Mine works better when the soil is fairly dry. Does a good job on the potato rows. Mark

I like ur rig Mark,..