What size hiller disks to buy?

[jimgerken]

HAYWIRE: I followed the link you provided to the Agri Supply page. Those are nice disc assemblies. Do you know what part would be used to attach them to a toolbar of sorts? Do you think it is this thing? :
WEDGE CLAMP W/SET SCREWS - Agri Supply

Thanks!

 

[Haywire]

Yep, that along with the wedge bolt. Keep in mind that clamp needs a 1.5" tool bar.

I'm not going that route though. If you see what BHB did, he made a clamp out of a couple pieces of scrap plate and some thick walled tube. I'm deviating a little from that but going basically the same route. I'm trying to do this on the cheap and don't want to spend cash on the store bought clamps.

Ian

 

[jimgerken]

OK, cool. Is the desired toolbar a 1.5" square tube? thanks Haywire.

 

[Haywire]

I think... but am not sure, that the original implements these were designed to fit had solid tool bars. I suppose it depends on how much horsepower you plan on hitching it to.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've owned my little tractor for a grand total of 5 months and everything I think I know I've picked up this winter and spring.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

Here's what I came up with.

14" disks
4" of clearance between the disk and the toolbar.
With lower arms level, disk will be 3" below grade.
With arms all the way up, disks will be 6" above grade
With arms all the way down, disks will be 10" below grade.

 

[jwillett]

Here is what I just set up, 14" disk with 22" shanks on an old frame found in the woods at the farm. It worked fine for the ground being so wet, can only get to the farm on weekends so I have to go for it when I am there.

This clamp really holds the disc well.

I am working on a new frame that can be used as an all out bedder too, 2"x2"x.25" tubbing and 2"x2.5"x.375" angle . Just need the time and the right scrap steel to show up.

Jim

 

[Haywire]

And.... here's my copy. Paint not finished on what I welded up today. It works, although I think it might need a shelf to hold a couple concrete blocks. It didn't want to cut the rain packed dirt very well. I'm still adjusting the angles to get it doing what I want it to do.

I didn't think to put a pin through the holes in the top link brackets when I welded them on so naturally it's just off enough not to allow the pin through. I got a 1/2" bolt in there. It might just stay that way. I welded it between the brackets, so I can't fit a cutoff wheel in there to cut the weld loose. :laughing:

Oh, and no complaints about my welding... I burned my first stick about 48 hours ago. :thumbsup:

Ian

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Looks good! Never thought about a weight attachment, good idea. How big a hill were you able to throw with it? Mine works better when the soil is fairly dry. Does a good job on the potato rows. Mark

 

[Haywire]

It wouldn't do much without several passes. Ground is wet and packed from the beating it got from the rain the past couple months.

I wanted to plant corn tomorrow and thought to break the ground up, I would pull a deep furrow with the middlebuster and then toss it back in with the hiller. Looks like they're forecasting rain again tomorrow though.

I couldn't let that top link bracket stay crooked. I cut three welds and the 4th broke with just a little encouragement from a hammer. Ground the old weld off, put a pin through and welded it back on. Got it painted this evening.

Now I'm looking at adding a second toolbar so I can mount 2 rows of cultivator shanks. The extra square tube will add to the weight also so the hiller should work better.

Ian

 

[kubotakid USA]

Looks good! Never thought about a weight attachment, good idea. How big a hill were you able to throw with it? Mine works better when the soil is fairly dry. Does a good job on the potato rows. Mark

I like ur rig Mark,..