What size rotary cutter?
- Thread starter BigSteve63
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BigSteve63
Bronze Member
Thanks for all the input. My terrain hilly, but nothing really steep. I would be able to mow across the hill with no problems. Was planning to leave the FEL on when cutting.
whistlepig
Elite Member
That would be a bargain. Look for the big dollar problems. Bent or loose stump jumper. Ridges in the deck the same diameter as the blades is an indicator of a bent stump jumper or bent blades. Leaking gearbox seals. If all is well I'd snatch it up. Check your tail wheel bearings and pivot. A replacement tail wheel costs $100.00 +. PTO shafts are not that expensive to replace.
OP
BigSteve63
Bronze Member
Uh-oh - it does have a ridge around the deck surface. I was told that it found an old stump; no damage to underbody. What should I look for? Never been under one of these things. Blades look to be good shape from the edges I've seen, but have not lifted cutter up to look under.
whistlepig
Elite Member
A ridge around the deck surface is a very bad thing. Something, either the stump jumper or blade(s) have been bent enough to allow the blades to rub the deck. Once bent this far it comprimises the cutter. It won't cut as well after this happens. It's fixable and at the price you are getting it for it would be worth your while. Replacing a stump jumper and blades isn't much fun though. Takes a torch, 15" adjustable wrench, cheater bar, and horse and/or cow poop falling in your eyes and mouth.
Chilly807
Elite Member
I'd say it was a good deal, depending on what it needs fixed, if anything, and secondly, if it will do what you need it to. I paid close to $1700 Cdn for my Land Pride 60" 1860 (new) so $150 is a smokin' deal.
Looking at where the ridge is will tell you a bit about what happened. If the blades bent enough to force them up into the deck surface, as long as they didn't cut into the surface and were replaced after the event, the mower should be ok. If they cut a groove around the deck, it would weaken the deck, how much is debatable.
If the stump came loose and jammed up between the stump jumper and deck, causing the groove, it would have put a pretty high load on the gearbox.
If the ridge is out near the blade ends, it's a safe bet the blades bent.
I'd buy it myself under a couple of conditions:
First, it would have to be suitable for what I needed it for, otherwise it's no good to me whether it's a good deal or not. Check the KK specs for brush size, blade thickness, etc. Anything less than 3/8 blade thickness and you'll have durability problems mowing anything but grass and weeds. No one plans to mow rocks but a few get done over the years regardless of intent. 40 HP gearbox should be a good match for your tractor.
Second, get the current owner to lift it up via FEL or forklift, and have a good look underneath. See if the ridge has cut into the deck material too much for it to be safe long-term. You can always weld it back up, too. For that price I'd be willing to do some repairs.
Third, I'd have to see it run before any cash changed hands. If it hit something that hard, there's a chance it bent the output shaft or damaged the gearbox. Run it before you look underneath, it may save time looking afterwards if it shakes like a dog passing razor blades. If the stump jumper is bent, that may not be the end of the world. All the stump jumper is, is a glorified salad bowl welded to a cross frame that supports the blades. It's designed to prevent the blade support from hitting a stump, ergo the name. The blades themselves are hinged on the cross-frame (blade support) and fold up if they hit anything, the cross-frame is attached to the output shaft.
If the owner is reluctant to lift it up or run it, offer to pay him for his time. If he still doesn't want to do it, then walk away from the deal.
Sean
Looking at where the ridge is will tell you a bit about what happened. If the blades bent enough to force them up into the deck surface, as long as they didn't cut into the surface and were replaced after the event, the mower should be ok. If they cut a groove around the deck, it would weaken the deck, how much is debatable.
If the stump came loose and jammed up between the stump jumper and deck, causing the groove, it would have put a pretty high load on the gearbox.
If the ridge is out near the blade ends, it's a safe bet the blades bent.
I'd buy it myself under a couple of conditions:
First, it would have to be suitable for what I needed it for, otherwise it's no good to me whether it's a good deal or not. Check the KK specs for brush size, blade thickness, etc. Anything less than 3/8 blade thickness and you'll have durability problems mowing anything but grass and weeds. No one plans to mow rocks but a few get done over the years regardless of intent. 40 HP gearbox should be a good match for your tractor.
Second, get the current owner to lift it up via FEL or forklift, and have a good look underneath. See if the ridge has cut into the deck material too much for it to be safe long-term. You can always weld it back up, too. For that price I'd be willing to do some repairs.
Third, I'd have to see it run before any cash changed hands. If it hit something that hard, there's a chance it bent the output shaft or damaged the gearbox. Run it before you look underneath, it may save time looking afterwards if it shakes like a dog passing razor blades. If the stump jumper is bent, that may not be the end of the world. All the stump jumper is, is a glorified salad bowl welded to a cross frame that supports the blades. It's designed to prevent the blade support from hitting a stump, ergo the name. The blades themselves are hinged on the cross-frame (blade support) and fold up if they hit anything, the cross-frame is attached to the output shaft.
If the owner is reluctant to lift it up or run it, offer to pay him for his time. If he still doesn't want to do it, then walk away from the deal.
Sean
riptides
Super Star Member
FWIW, I run a 5 foot Brush Bull on my B7800. I have some serious cutting to "lawn" that I take care of, hills and flat, no issues. My "lawn' in spots is a pretty heavy switchgrass which when I hit it in high gear at max RPMS, will slow the cut and operator down.
I did run a 6 foot RFM, but the Brush Bull beat that out over time.
I did run a 6 foot RFM, but the Brush Bull beat that out over time.
Agrantina
Platinum Member
I have a L3240 with a 5ft cutter. I wanted the 6ft one but my dealer talked me into the 5ft. He said if you are going to cut taller grass you will be pleased with the 5ft and with shorter grass you can speed up the tractor and cut faster. He was RIGHT! I am glad I got the 5ft, it cuts better in the tall stuff and when cutting lower junk I can roll on pretty good. Some times bigger is not better
Andy G
Andy G
OP
BigSteve63
Bronze Member
OK - First off, Thanks again for all the advice. I did wind up buying the cutter for $125. The cutter belonged to owner's father, who recently passed away. Seems like Dad found a piece of pipe (either cut off post or well riser) with the cutter just days after buying it; severely bent one of the blades, hence the ridge. My guy says the blade was replaced and the mower works fine. We tipped it up for a view of the underside, everything appears to be in great shape with no dents, dings, or other damage to stump jumper. Got it home but have not tried it yet. Have a HF quick hitch installed, but the spacing is only out to 27.5 inches, this thing is about 28.5. I'm going to have to invest in some of the other quick attach that let the links adjust out wider. Was looking at Pat's, but noticed another type on Ebay for ~ $89. Anyone have any experience with these? They do not have the spring loaded keeper, you have to slide a pin in place to lock the implement in.
I will post a follow up as soon as I feel manly enough to hook the cutter up the "old fashioned" way!
I will post a follow up as soon as I feel manly enough to hook the cutter up the "old fashioned" way!
Larry Caldwell
Super Member
That is a very good deal. If you try it and it doesn't work out, you can always sell it for a profit. Rule of thumb is used price is 50% of new, or about $300 to $330.
