What's the best attachment for leveling?

[jeffxjet]

When the previous owner built the tack barn, they did not level the site first. As a result when I added a sliding door at the low end I had to trench out a channel for it slide open towards the high end. When it rains the trench fills with dirt and I have to dig it out. I would like to use my new tractor to even out the area, it will be a lot of dirt moving.

What would be the best way to attack this problem?

 

[JIGBUILDER]

Sounds like a good job for your BB or a rear grader blade. If it was around my area in Oklahoma it will take the rippers to loosen the soil enough for the blade to move. My son is in central FL in the sand and has never had to use the rippers on his BB and can move his soil easilly all day long the the FEL.

Much depends.

 

[patrick_g]

If you have a lot of hard digging to do and lots of dirt to move the best attachment may very well be a phone to use to hire a bulldozer. I have a HD FEL and a really HD box blade with large capacity and hydraulic raise and lower ripping teeth (scarifiers) plus hydraulic TNT and I still hire a dozer once in a while. I figure it is not too bright to spend a week or two doing what a dozer can do in a day or two.

Pat

 

[jeffxjet]

That's what I was thinking, a BB would be my best choice. I have to purchase one first. The soil is not very hard, but there is a significant amount. The working area is between 2 barns so I'm not sure if a dozed could get in there to do work properly. Besides, I need an excuse to buy some implements .

 

[Milton Burro]

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I've been shopping around for a BB and have noticed several differences in them. They way they attach, how close the outer rippers are to the ends of the box, the curved plate front and rear at the bottom of the box, along with the thickness of the steel are all considerations of mine. I have rocky soil here plus the fact that there is a large tree where I need to grade, I am wondering if I would be just spinning my wheels trying to use one on my 3400 Kubota. Not intending to hijack your thread, perhaps I should start a new one with these questions.

 

[Army grunt]

Use a box blade With ripper teeth.It takes a little practice but really works great. Run your tractor slow. Let the blade do its job.
Army Grunt

 

[TripleR]

Box Blade for the reasons already covered.

Like another poster, I will rent or hire it done if needed though.

 

[jeffxjet]

Thanks guys. I gotta go get one now.

 

[SandburRanch]

If there is room to maneuver and very little backing is required this drag implement beats a box blade hands down for moving and leveling dirt. The gauge wheels have a relatively flat surface to follow rather than like the rear wheels of a tractor causing dirt to be dumped with every gopher mound they cross.

 

[TripleR]

If there is room to maneuver and very little backing is required this drag implement beats a box blade hands down for moving and leveling dirt. The gauge wheels have a relatively flat surface to follow rather than like the rear wheels of a tractor causing dirt to be dumped with every gopher mound they cross.

We have one of those in 10' and they work great, but as mentioned, in tight quarters there are problems. I have used it on our roads and you can't beat it for control.

 

[Samandothers]

I was thinking box blade also. Given the need to purchase toys, what more needs to be said. Do post some pictures if you get the chance.

 

[the6shooter]

But please remember when making the purchase of a new box blade, get a good one. there are lots of light cheap one's out there, that are useless.
david

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It has been my experience that when purchasing new implements you usually get what you pay for. So if you are going to buy new and want a good product that will actually work and not break on you, expect to pay some $$$$. Keep in mind that whenever one is grading, weight is your friend. Whatever type of implement you decide to get, you will be better off with one that is built heavy.

Good luck and please post some pictures of the job that needs to be done.

 

[TripleR]

Here is the one I use the most. A hydraulic toplink is a great addition to any tractor and works especially well on a BB.

 

[spruce Deere]

Box blade is what you need by the way it sounds giving the space constraints.... Tractors should come standard with one

 

[jeffxjet]

Here is the one I use the most. A hydraulic toplink is a great addition to any tractor and works especially well on a BB.

Do you just swap it out for the factory top link? Where does the power come from? Rear remote?

 

[texasjohn]

yes, remove manual top link, insert hydraulic one...be sure and select hydraulic top link of proper length to tilt ALL your implements thru the entire productive range of motion. Hydraulic power is supplied via hoses plugged into one pair of rear hydraulic ports....this is good reason to have at least two such pair of ports...one for HTL and the other for another use.

 

[rpeter]

Do a search on Box Blades. There was a thread a couple of years ago that went through all types and people posted what they liked about them and what they didn't. It also had a lot of pictures. Long thread but good reading.
:licking::licking::licking::licking::licking: :licking::licking::licking::licking::licking:

 

[TripleR]

Do you just swap it out for the factory top link? Where does the power come from? Rear remote?

What John said; mine came with one rear remote and I had my dealer fix me up a top-link to fit. You can probably get one cheaper from CCM or fab one yourself if you are mechanically inclined.

I believe Kubota offers Top and Tilt option on some tractors too.

 

[Ken Pike]

I have a heavy, old rear blade on my Ford 8N. It is a copy of an old Dearborn blade, but was homemade, parts cut with a torch & goobered together with big lumps of weld. I have done a pile of work with the old thing (welding & repairing it as needed), ditching, grading & crowning 1/2 mi. lane & levelling gravel for my shop & tractor shed. Picked it up for $100 because of it's butt-ugliness but would cost over $500 to replace with a new one that rugged & heavy. In the Spring before the lane gets hard packed I use a Massey Ferguson 6.5'disc harrow on the shoulders to loosen it up before grading/crowning.