which welding rod?

[MrZukerman]

I found a 1" long crack at one of the welds on the lower swing pivoit of my case BH , and was curious as to which welding rod would be best for the repair. I was looking at a E6011 3/16" but not sure if that would be best. The steel is about 3/8" thick.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

How wide is the "crack"? I'm no expert but since the metal you are welding is only 3/8", I'd probably go with a 1/8" 6011, or clean the area well and possibly use a 1/8" 7018. Make sure you ground very close to the weld. Again, I'm learning like a lot of folks when it comes to welding. BobG in VA/Miller Trailblazer 251NT

 

[GaryE]

If you can clean the area, I would not recommend the 6011. If it is an area that is going to take some stress, go with a 1/8” 7018. If you have never used this rod, either practice with it or go with a 6013. 6011’s are great for rusty or dirty environments, but IMO not a good rod for finish work.

Gary

 

[MrZukerman]

The crack is just noticable , It's along the edge of a factory weld. As for looks that really doesn't matter, it's up under the Hoe, and you can't see it. So I really want a good penatration over a good finish look.

 

[KennethBrown]

As long as you can clean it the 7018 is the better rod. If you will not be able to get it nice and shiny go with the 6011. Advice you didn't ask for: At the end of the crack on both ends drill a 1/8 hole all the way through. This will provide a stress break and stop the crack from going any further. Grind down into the crack to make a valley, just about 1/16 of an inch on each side is ok. Weld it. Grind it out and weld just to the left. Grind it again. Now weld to the right overlapping both previous welds. Total of 3 passes on each side. Problems solved.

 

[escavader]

7018 is stronger,6011 is usually prettier,its easy to use.V out as said is a good idea.Make sure you dont place your grounding clamp so juice goes through a bearing.Unhook your battery to protect your electrical.
ALAN

 

[chriswheeler]

If you can remove the part, clean it well and weld it flat, I would recomend 10018. It is likely that part is some sort of alloy steel and would yeald a stronger weld. Second choice would be 7018. Third choice would be 6011 only if the part can't be removed and cleaned or must be welded on the machine. Also you might grind the crack about 1/8" deep if able to remove, this will make a better weld yet. All of the choices would be 1/8" dia rod. Hope this helps, good luck,
Chris

 

[BobReeves]

Kinda new at this welding stuff myself, wondering why everyone is sugesting 1/8 rod over 3/16?

 

[Diesel_Boy]

the larger the rod, the more amperage you need on the dial. the more the amperage, the more damage you can do! the difference between 6011 and 7018 is twofold. 6011 has tensile strength of 60000 psi. 7018 is 70000 psi. 7018 is stronger if you can use it. 6011, however, is more penetrating. it will go deep into the joint. in any case, you should V out the crack. this will provide better penetration and a stronger weld. personally, i think 7018 looks better, if you do it correctly. one of the ways to compromise between the penetration versus the strength of the two different rods is to make the first pass with 6011. this will give excellent penetration of the base. then finish off with 2 or 3 passes with 7018. there should be a noticeable heighth to the weld bead. the height of the bead above the surface of the base should be as high as the base is thick. you are weakening the base slightly by heating it, so it needs to have extra weld material to compensate. 6011 is aggressive and you need practice laying down separate but overlapping circles that make up the bead. the 7018 is basically a drag rod. i wouldn't go any bigger than a 1/8 rod. you could even try and practice with a 3/32. every welder is different. play with the amperage setting until you have the right amount for any given size and type of rod. good luck.

 

[Diesel_Boy]

oh, forgot to mention. the joint prep for the 6011 only needs to be clean enough to make initial electrical contact for the electrode. the 7018, however, needs to have a very clean joint. grind, wire brush, or even air powered die grinder with wire wheel attachment.

 

[3RRL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I found a 1" long crack at one of the welds)</font>

All welds create stress on the parent material and if the ends of the crack are not pooled through, it may migrate further under stress from usage.
Besides "V-ing" out the crack, I've had great results with drilling a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from migrating further, removing a "sharp edge" there. Then weld the hole shut with circular welds and follow with filling the crack itself.
As for welding rod, use what you can handle to get good penetration and strength with as little heat as possible. This helps the overall strength of the weld and parent material. When selecting rods that are close close in tensile strength, I'd opt for better weld preparation and a rod that will give me penetration.
I's like the old golf commercials advertising Beryllium copper irons for "soft" feel. There is a diference on the Rockwell Hardness Scale (Rc), but you really can't tell the diference from hitting a golf ball.
Personally, I use my 330A Miller TIG welder with 410SS rod, Ø1/16 for repairs. That rod mingles well with most all metals from mild steel to tool steels. The weld comes out clean as a whistle. I realize most guys don't have a TIG in the shop so that may not be an option.
But like so may others said before me, prepare that weld area real good.

 

[tswirka]

a 1/8 6010 and 3/32 7018 both run at the same amps 75-100.
i like to run @ 80-85 amps, any hotter and the weld puddle is harder to control. drill the ends, grind out the crack grind deep if its a deep crack, just dont go through, and put a pass of 6010 in there to penetrate and fuse the crack. grind that a little or just brush the slag of and fill and cap with 3/32 7018. multiple passes not just one big one. chip and brush between passes and VOILA'. yer a welder.
good luck, just do it(practice a little first)
Todd

 

[bjr]

Great subject. I've the very same questions. One thing I'm needing is there a price deal on rod online somewhere? I paid $3 a lb for 5 lb 3/32 6011 locally and felt like I got hosed. $15 for a hand full of mild steel rod is ridiculuos I think. I've searched but haven't found any good online vendors, any recommendations? bjr

 

[_RaT_]

I would do it as tswirka says. That has been my experience as well. A 6010 root pass and 7018 for the fill in as many passes as it takes.

 

[ALABAMA_KID]

Not cheapest but better.
Lowes 6011 5lbs $8.00 10lbs 16.00 ..

local welding shop 50Lbs about $63.00

Hope this helps..

 

[Diesel_Boy]

home depot. 5 lbs 6011 - $8.00