Winch Modifications

[J_J]

You will also need one of these to go with the solenoid valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-5883-1

If you want the winch to lock, don't use a motor spool, use a tandem center valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6136&catname=hydraulic

 

[BobRip]

I bought one of these today http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7861&catname=hydraulic. from surplus center.

 

[J_J]

Bob, does any of your valves have PB? Maybe you are going to install the new valve first in line.

 

[BobRip]

Bob, does any of your valves have PB? Maybe you are going to install the new valve first in line.

Yes, they have power beyond. I think this valve will work here.

 

[FAZTRAC]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

 

[MossRoad]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

I think we'd all love to see a thread and pictures of that! :thumbsup:

 

[FAZTRAC]

Hey Moss, I'm computer illiterate and don't know how to insert pictures but I can e mail you pictures of what I built, I got that part down. FAZ

 

[BobRip]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

You made the right choice for the right reasons. No manual spool out is a pain, especially when the controls are in the front and the winch is in the back. I just helped a friend install a Mile Maker hyd winch on a jeep and it is nice. It is slow, but it has two speeds (high speed appears to be just for wind and unwind with no torque) and freewheeling. I would swap in a heart beat, but I think my friend would notice.

 

[J_J]

FAZTRAC,

What is the operating pressure on the Mile Marker hyd winch ? I thought they were around 1500 psi. If so, did you install a relief valve in the circuit, or does the two spool valve have relief?

For posting pictures. read post #2


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2206664#post2206664

 

[FAZTRAC]

JJ

Thanks for the picture info. We'll see if my Neanderthal brain can figure out pictures, I'm functionally illiterate.

Mile Marker requests no pressures over 1500 which achieves 7,000 lbs pull. Using Vickers crossover double relief valve (cushion valve) that is adjusts 600 to 3400 psi which mounts to winch frame. If pulling pressure exceeds set pressures it just dumps the oil into the returning oil, and also absorbs the momentary shocks while pulling. Also have a pressure guage T'd into the pulling circuit mounted on dash that lets me know whats going on. This winch far exceeds the holding capacity of the 425, so welding a hook directly behind the winch frame that allow my nylon straps to go back under the tractor around a tree and back to the winch so the stress of pulling tough logs bypasses the tractor frame, and the load is transferred directly to the tree base. I can do this from either front or back of tractor, or just drop the winch frame in front of a convenient tree, nylon strap it to tree, and just feed it oil from my 425 through the 12' long hoses with quick disconects. The cushion valve always stays with the winch frame. It makes it versatile.
Strong like bull

 

[PTWannaHave]

Wow... Sounds like a fantastic mod, FazTrac! (Looking forward to pics.)

Make me realize that after I get a PT, I will have to go back to college to learn how to weld and understand hydraulic machinery basic principles...

Cheers,

 

[FAZTRAC]

I emailed three early construction pics to Moss Road. I'm back in Flatistan now so will take some more when I get back up to mountains including home made snow plow attachment to light utility bucket. I love this machine ! .... And now I have to go back to school to learn the directions I got from JJ on how to post pictures of stuff. :confused2:

 

[FAZTRAC]

Looks like I figured out the picture thing. These are construction pics but also show the double receivers on the back of the 425 where the winch attaches. Its a heavy duty winch with nice features.

 

[Clumber]

Nice config. Next year I plan on adapting a smaller electric winch. Any thoughs on electric vs hydraulic?

I like the log garage.

Patrick

 

[FAZTRAC]

Hi Clumber
I'm not a winch master. I have electric 12V on utility vehicle. It is adquate for small, short pulls in an emergency. Quickly depletes small battery with multiple use. Plan on extra battery for major winching expeditions.

Hydraulic is about $700 on Internet or different ones from Surplus guys. They are massively strong and never run out of juice. You need two short hyd. hoses to cushion valve and then a couple of longer hoses to the steering circuit, and use the valve under the dash to activate....or you can use the PTO aux. circuit if you want as well. The winch motor is big enough to handle flow, and just run the engine at a lower speed/flow. You can just shut off the PTO switch when not pulling in... cause the "cable out" is free spool on a clutch. Must be careful as they are so powerful a pressure guage is a good idea to watch the stress on the tractor when pulling.

Logs are nice No insulation needed with logs and inepensive to build. Set four steel plates flush into concrete floor in one bay to attach assembly fixtures to make stuff.

 

[BobRip]

I added the valve today. It seems to work fine. I can control the winch from the drivers seat or from the back. I have to lock on the valve that I am not using.

The valve has quick connects on it so I can take it out of line if I like. It is bolted to the back of the PT.

The valve is spring return to off from both directions. I would like it to lock in one direction and spring return in the other. You can take the spring out, but it has no detent and can easily move to the other positions. This sounds very dangerous. I wander if I can get a kit to modify the valve. Of course the spring return to center is probably the safest way.

I have attached pictures of the installation. The valve drawing is too large to upload.

 

[J_J]

Bob,

Here is the detent kit for your valve.

Surplus Center - 3 POSITION DETENT KIT WOLVERINE MB VALVE

 

[BobRip]

Bob,

Here is the detent kit for your valve.

Surplus Center - 3 POSITION DETENT KIT WOLVERINE MB VALVE

Thanks, I ordered it.

 

[J_J]

Bob,

Are you using the PTO hyd's or the Quick Attach circuit hyd for the winch?

 

[FAZTRAC]

Bob
Thats a neat installation and will be really versatile. Very nice job Bob.:thumbsup:
Its great having a winch in the front or back. I use the small grapple boom on the back to load the heavy winch assembly up to slide onto the receivers so I don't have to lift it with my back. these things are heavy. Watch for the cable/choker slinging back at you under load if you are standing next to the winch.