Workable Headlights

   / Workable Headlights #11  
Michigan Iron installed my front and rear work lights on my 2008 Kioti DK40se and I could not be happier,they work great.I can finally see.coobie.
 
   / Workable Headlights #12  
Another thought, you can never have too much light, provided alternator can hadle it and I don't expect that to be a problem.

I've got two front on ROPS and two back on ROPS and two headlights.

I'll probably add a couple more pointing front on ROPS as I could still use a little more light.

Joel
 
   / Workable Headlights #13  
I read somewhere on here that Kioti wired the tractor for aux lights and there are pigtails at the rear of the tractor. I found the wires and tested them, they have no power. Does anyone know what else I need to do? I didnt trace the wires to see where they end. I am thinking maybe the wires are just installed and I need to install a switch and run the wire to the fuse box? Did kioti leave spare fuses to tie into? Has anyone else used the factory wiring to mount lights?
 
   / Workable Headlights #14  
I read somewhere on here that Kioti wired the tractor for aux lights and there are pigtails at the rear of the tractor. I found the wires and tested them, they have no power. Does anyone know what else I need to do?
The pigtail on my DK 35 has power when the headlight switch is turned on.
Thats where I get the power for some of my lights.
Don't know about the CK's.
 

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   / Workable Headlights #15  
There are a number of posts that show photos and give explanations for the various connectors on the rear of a CK. Search for them, I'm sure you'll find them. Many require the ignition be on. Some are tied to reverse. Others maybe to the headlight switch.

In the fuse box under the right side of the dash cowling the last fuse is labelled something like " customer use". I used a voltmeter to determine which side was fused and which was hot all the time. Then I simply spliced into the fused side. It must go to a connector somewhere. But, it was just as easy to simply tie in at the fuse panel.

Save yourself the trouble and buy the kit from MichiganIron.
 
   / Workable Headlights #16  
One of the open pigtail wires that I used for a rear light on my CK30hst doesn't have power unless the key is on. I don't believe you'll have a hot wire without the key or headlights on. Some models have a hookup for trailer lights which is required in some states after dark.
 
   / Workable Headlights #17  
On my CK20 the wire harness went live with the key on so I put a back light on that with toggle switch taped on the ROPS.
Wish I had known of MIE's kit as well. We need to get after him to finish his web site and save us some work.
 
   / Workable Headlights #18  
I did not know of the kit either. I just last month bought 2 halogen work lights to put under the rops. I get the whole do not drill thing, but 2 tiny holes, one on each side? Can't be that bad.

Anyhow, I got a swivel mount bracket and hope I can put them on such that I can aim them where I want, fwd or back.

I'll take pics when I do the project, hopefully this weekend.

If there is a way to install them without drilling, of course I will pick that.
 
   / Workable Headlights #19  
I am a big believer in not drilling any holes in the ROPS, so I put one light under the top of the ROPS with a square clamp and just ran the wires up the inside of the ROPS and taped them every few inches. Not all that ugly if you ask me, my wife, however, thinks otherwise.
 
   / Workable Headlights #20  
Not all that ugly if you ask me, my wife, however, thinks otherwise.

:D:D

Maybe she could get you color matching duct tape for the rops!
 

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