Workable Headlights

[VictorW]

You can get gray electricians tape. Actually, you can find in in many colors. Ask you wife what color she likes and you could wrap it in a spiral and make it look like a giant candy cane.

 

[lakngulf]

I have read everything I can find on TBN on adding better headlights and a rear worklight. I have decided one of my best spots to tie in to tractor electrical is the work light pigtail just the SMV sign.

Here is my question: Where can I find the male end of that pigtail connection? I have looked in magazines, searched online, visited NAPA and other stores, but I have found nothing so far. Seems like it would be simple. the pigtail on my tractor has a "blank" male so I am assuming I could just buy one with wires already attached and be in business.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Gittyup]

Not sure about the connector you mention. But, a lot of those rear connectors are compatible with Molex connectors. You buy the shell and the contacts separately. Not usually available at your average brick-n-mortar store. But are available from digikey, newark electroncs, etc. I got some free by requesting samples directly from molex through their website.

You won't have a crimp tool. But you can make do with regular pliars.

Thoug I do think that some guys have found compatible pins at their local autoparts store.

 

[woodyacres]

I cut into mine and made my own connector. Then I cut in and added a switch under my dash. Turned out pretty nice. I believe I cut into the spare fuse and wired it there so that it had power whenever I turned on the switch, if the key is on. I will try and post up some pics. I bought everything from TS.

BTW, this was my first electrical project on any auto.

 

[jimmyj]

I just added lights and here are some pics.

NOTES:
1. I did drill and thread the lights into the ROPS. I accept it is not perfect but I don't accept it is a significant major risk.
2. I have not prettied up the wires yet. Too darned cold. I'll make them look nice and be protected in the spring, probably wrap them and make them match in color and run nice and straight.
3. The "bullet" connectors I got just came from the local hardware store. I also have bought huge packs of electrical connectors from harbor freight. If you can't find an exact match, cut the factory ones off and add an end you can get to the pigtails.
4. The new lights are AMAZING. I can swivel them and angle them. There is no need for the headlights really any more. I can aim one for and the other aft and work very easily at night.
5. I essentially ran one long wire from each side of the pigtail to the furthest light. As these 2 wires passed by the closer light, I ran them through a connector that has the two wires from the closer light in one side and the original 2 wires on the other. This connector closes around both wires like a clamshell and pierces the insulation.
6. I will protect all connections, but I can't find dielectric grease anywhere.
7. The lights run off the ignition switch and are on all the time. I plan to add an on/off switch right by the pigtails.
8. The lights are inside the ROPS or I'd break them off on tree branches. Also, they are placed so they don't hit the backhoe controls when the ROPS is folded down with the BH on the tractor.

The only problem I had was, because I'm a dope, I dropped one of the lights and broke it. I have to replace it now!!

 

[o2batsea]

JimmyJ were it me, I would have run the wiring inside the ROPS tube, protected with split loom. I also really hate the blue tap splice things. Rather a proper splice with (adhesive lined) shrink tube would be better. I would also suggest the wires be connected with a marine quality bus bar rather than simple bullet connectors, which can be pulled apart. Ring terminals do not come off very easily.
Finally, these lights really should be on a fused circuit and controlled with a heavy duty solenoid. You are running an additional ten amps thru the ignition switch which is a no no.
Fuses protect the wire, not the device so it is essential that you avoid the risk of a meltdown or worse.
A large square u bolt will also add a protective frame around the light.

 

[jimmyj]

O2batsea, tell me more.

I was planning to re route the wires through the ROPS in the spring and I will cover the connectors etc. But I'm intrigued about the 10amps through the ignition. What will I ruin by doing that? Can you help me understand how exactly the damage is done. I made an error I guess of assuming since the pigtail was located such to run a rear facing light, it would be OK to use it.

I have no issue routing this rig to the customer use 15 amp circuit. That was my original plan before I found the pigtails.

Any comments would be appreciated. I really like the lights, and can make them pretty but don't want to ruin anything.

 

[lakngulf]

Thanks jimmyj and others. I think we has a plan, or at least an approach. I see what you did with the bullet connectors. If I do not find the male component that I need, then I will go that route. It just seems to me that if I cut off the female end of the existing pigtail, the wires will be just so darn short, but the bullet connectors would be the answer.

On the O O O O"reily website I find a Dorman 2 wire male shroud harness (part number 85391) that looks so close. I may order online as I have not been able to find it at a store.

I will update as I progress.

 

[twoie]

Looks good. I agree the project will look better when you run the wires inside the rops. I also can not see a couple of small holes making the rops weak. Now if you're going to drill out a one hole, that may be a little much. Have you thought about putting one in the center facing the rear?

 

[Gil Case]

''I also can not see a couple of small holes making the rops weak.''

Twoie---You know there is an old saying "do you really want to find out" if it weakens the ROPS?

i.e. you wont know until it happens. Check Rick's Avatar.