Yanmar 186D broken shaft

[CoyPatton]

Last week I got the new shaft for the pump:

View attachment 678212

From this:

View attachment 678213

To this:

View attachment 678214

I rebuild the tractor, put a new hydraulics filter on it and added new oil in the transmission/hydraulics reservoir.


At first the tractor seemed to work 100%, but after a while the powershift give some issues, it wont shift in the reverse and 1st gear.
Sometimes it won't shift and sometimes it takes up to 30 seconds and then it shifts into gear.

I suspect it has too little oil in it.

Got 10 liters, filled the filter first and the put the rest in the reservoire.
The manual says it need 8 liters, but I think it needs way more.
Anyone over here who knows how many liters oil this tractor needs?

Did you clean the suction filter that is inside the reservoir? This is in addition to a screw on filter. If it is restricted, hydraulic fluid flow will be affected. It is low in the reservoir, so fluid loss is a given with its removal (drain first). If your fluid is caught clean, you can reuse it. Access plate should be on the opposite side of the transmission housing from the suction tube going to the spin on filter and pump.

 

[winston1]

Last week I got the new shaft for the pump:

View attachment 678212

From this:

View attachment 678213

To this:

View attachment 678214

I rebuild the tractor, put a new hydraulics filter on it and added new oil in the transmission/hydraulics reservoir.


At first the tractor seemed to work 100%, but after a while the powershift give some issues, it wont shift in the reverse and 1st gear.
Sometimes it won't shift and sometimes it takes up to 30 seconds and then it shifts into gear.

I suspect it has too little oil in it.

Got 10 liters, filled the filter first and the put the rest in the reservoire.
The manual says it need 8 liters, but I think it needs way more.
Anyone over here who knows how many liters oil this tractor needs?

8.4qts, 7.95 liters according to tractor data info.

 

[California]

In addition to the screw-on external transmission filter there's a 'strainer', wire mesh, behind a cover that is at the top-left of the transmission and behind your left ankle. In this photo one of its four little cover bolts is visible, just even with the back of the sheet metal.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...easier-ym186dstep-cargobag20190830_134537-jpg

The strainer (#11) and the large opening it goes into, appear in this Hoye diagram.

My experience was I dumped 1/3 liter oil taking that cover off one of my YM186D's but then for some reason spilled very little on the other YM186D.

And there's a dipstick you can pull out to check the transmission oil level. It's back where the pto shift lever goes into the transmission on the left side.

 

[ajaukema]

I added a little more oil, the dipstick has now a little oil on the tip, so I think it has the right oillevel the powershift now seems to work a bit better.
Also the temperatures makes a difference I guess, after a while when the engine and oil is warm, the powershift is more smooth.

The strainer is in good condition btw, checked this before adding the new oil. Not sure about this suction pipe, where/how can I get access to it?
Is this suction pipe connected to the powershift oil circuit or is it connected to the hydraulic circuit for the 3 point hitch?
I understand the hydraulics and powershift has a shared reservoire
The hitch works fine btw.

So the tractor is basically functioning well, but it is a bit hard to start this tractor, it takes a long time starting before it run.
There is white smoke while starting so to me it looks like the fuel circuit is ok.

I found out this thermostart plug, but Im not shure if its working properly, is there a way to test the plug?

 

[California]

I found out this thermostart plug, but Im not shure if its working properly, is there a way to test the plug?

Twist the key left for 15 seconds. The thermostart and neighboring metal should feel slightly warm.

A replacement Thermostart module looks like a spark plug and is not expensive. Lowest price is about $12 on Ebay. They are universal and are used on other brands also, so they are widely available. The wire will attach with a screw or a slide-on connector, so check which type you need.

As for transmission warmup - what is the transmission fluid you have in it? The original specification, Deere 303, is single-grade oil that is thick when cold. Modern multi-grade UTF - Universal Transmission Fluid - is better for cold weather (and better quality overall).

 

[bmaverick]

Twist the key left for 15 seconds. The thermostart and neighboring metal should feel slightly warm.

A replacement Thermostart module looks like a spark plug and is not expensive. Lowest price is about $12 on Ebay. They are universal and are used on other brands also, so they are widely available. The wire will attach with a screw or a slide-on connector, so check which type you need.

As for transmission warmup - what is the transmission fluid you have in it? The original specification, Deere 303, is single-grade oil that is thick when cold. Modern multi-grade UTF - Universal Transmission Fluid - is better for cold weather (and better quality overall).

JD-303 is banned is several states and has been obsoleted over 45 years ago. For the YM Series and the JD 50 + 70 Series machines, J20C is the ideal fluid to use. Deere and Yanmar worked on that specification together.

Yanmar compact tractors and machines are not old enough to even had used JD-303. Those were the very old and large JD machines made in the US and in Germany.

Here is the history of how the oils went.
Perilously Obsolete: The Dangers of 33 Tractor Hydraulic Fluids | TractorLife

JD303, then to J14. J14 moved up to J20A. Later J20A had to be obsoleted and J20C/J20D became the golden standard.

JD303, J14 and J20a are in fact - - - > low-quality fluids. That is why these are sold for CHEAP in the stores.
Lubrizol’s testing of these fluids has shown an average 25 percent viscosity increase over 100 hours of measuring oxidative stability. In other words, these fluids have been shown to thicken during extended use, which can result in many problems, including erratic or sluggish hydraulic response due to deposit formation and strain on the hydraulic system.

 

[rScotty]

The strainer is in good condition btw, checked this before adding the new oil. Not sure about this suction pipe, where/how can I get access to it?
Is this suction pipe connected to the powershift oil circuit or is it connected to the hydraulic circuit for the 3 point hitch?
I understand the hydraulics and powershift has a shared reservoire

The suction pipe is the one that runs from the strainer cover up to the front of the tractor where it connects to the hydraulic pump. It is often partly metal and other parts of the line can be rubber because it doesn't carry any pressure. However, if they suck air into the suction line then it makes for problems that are hard to diagnose. As originally built, all the hydraulics share the same reservoir.

Old tractors can be hard to start. Particularly diesels. Find some way to heat it up a little before starting.
rScotty

 

[winston1]

The suction pipe is the one that runs from the strainer cover up to the front of the tractor where it connects to the hydraulic pump. It is often partly metal and other parts of the line can be rubber because it doesn't carry any pressure. However, if they suck air into the suction line then it makes for problems that are hard to diagnose. As originally built, all the hydraulics share the same reservoir.

Old tractors can be hard to start. Particularly diesels. Find some way to heat it up a little before starting.
rScotty

Probably not but might be talking about #31 here.

 

[CoyPatton]

Typically on the yanmars, the access plate to remove the screen is on one side of the transmission and the suction pipe/hose is on the opposite side at the same level. If you can not id it that way, go to your pump on the engine and trace the lager of the two (2) lines from the pump back to the transmission housing. If yours is equipped with a spin-on hydraulic filter, you can jump your trace point to its mount housing and then back to the transmission housing.
Typically, you will find a mix of rubber hoses and hard lines as a part of the suction lines. The rubber are there fir 2 primary purposes, 1) to absorb vibrations to protect the metal lines fir damage (not necessarily a 100% protection as my machine is right at 40 yrs old although not that many hours showing on hr meter) 2) it is easier to remove than a hard metal attached line at potential replacement parts, the spin-on filter housing or to replace a damaged metal line. Unfortunately rubber hoses especially 40 yr old rubber breaks down.
Also unfortunately, you are not likely to find a compromise is this while the engine is running, as it will probably experience a suction effect pull air into the lines not fluid coming out. If you suspect a leak in this system, clean the line, secure paper under the lines, and look for oil drops on the paper, then chase those drip marks on the line realizing that a thick fluid may travel down hill before getting heavy enough to drop.

 

[ajaukema]

Small update, today I went to the tractor for a quick visit on the way home from work (the tractor is not at home).

- Tested the thermostart plug, turned the key to the left and after a short time the metal on the air-intake side gets warm, so that is OK!
I will check the fuel cup, fuel flow into the air-intake later (takes more time and left my tools at home)

- Yesterday the tractor again didn't shift into the reverse gear.
Today I checked the lever and it has lots of play, so Im thinking about removing this metal cap/guide from the lever and check if this helps in orde have the spool in the exact positions.

I believe the hydraulics are basically ok, the 3 point hitch works very good all the time, the 2nd, 3th and neutral position form the powershift always work fine.