Yanmar 186D broken shaft

[bmaverick]

Maybe replacing the gasket dislodged crud that was blocking something. Good to hear it shifts ok now.

I think even 300 Kg (660 lbs) on the back is optimistic. Maybe that's measured at the pins, not per later industry standard which is 24 inches back.

I tried mounting my 3-point backhoe, claimed 750 lbs, on the YM186D. Couldn't lift it. I used the backhoe's dipper to lift some of the weight. Then when I raised the bucket off the ground the little tractor cried. I quit before I broke something. The backhoe went back on the YM240 where its near the limit of what that one can lift, even though it was originally sold as an OEM implement for that model.

California, I would have to agree. Yanmar's ratings are not based on ASME, SAE nor ASAE standards. They are based on JIS (Japanese Industry Standards).
Japanese Industrial Standards - Wikipedia

With that said, the 3PT lift is based on "your mileage may differ" slogan of the 80s and 90s. Thus, I too would error on the LEAST value of 300Kg (660-lbs).

Tractor data as Winston pointed out does have for 'certain' models the Nebraska Test results. The closest to the YM186 is the YM226. The measurements are taken like you had mentioned at, the ends of the drawbar OR at 24-inches beyond the drawbar.

rScotty has mentioned in the past that the Yanmar publications at times did have some wrong values.

 

[rScotty]

California, I would have to agree. Yanmar's ratings are not based on ASME, SAE nor ASAE standards. They are based on JIS (Japanese Industry Standards).
Japanese Industrial Standards - Wikipedia

With that said, the 3PT lift is based on "your mileage may differ" slogan of the 80s and 90s. Thus, I too would error on the LEAST value of 300Kg (660-lbs).

Tractor data as Winston pointed out does have for 'certain' models the Nebraska Test results. The closest to the YM186 is the YM226. The measurements are taken like you had mentioned at, the ends of the drawbar OR at 24-inches beyond the drawbar.

rScotty has mentioned in the past that the Yanmar publications at times did have some wrong values.

Yes, there was a lot of competition between the various compacts during the period when the YM186 was sold.


Specsmanship is like any other type of advertising - easier to deny a false number as a mistake than admit that someone else has done it better. More commonly, they simply measured things like loader or 3pt lift from pin positions where the weight is meaningless but the numbers are impressive. Rumor at the time said that some companies -including Yanmar - weren't above offering special length 3pt lower arms to fake the numbers... Note the technical reference in the first picture to a YM186 "SHORT" - I believe that is their special "short" lift arm.
rScotty

Here's some old YM186 info. And some info on the 180/187 which was a lot stronger

 

[ajaukema]

Big differences indeed. I also think around 250Kg is most likely for this kind of tractor. Thanks for all the additional info.

Still dealing with the bad starting thing....

How fast should it spin? Is there anyway to check this?

 

[rScotty]

Big differences indeed. I also think around 250Kg is most likely for this kind of tractor. Thanks for all the additional info.

Still dealing with the bad starting thing....

How fast should it spin? Is there anyway to check this?

On how fast it should spin... Interesting question..... There is no theoretical limit to how fast a D.C. (direct current) motor can spin if it doesn't have a load - like an engine - attached to it. An AC motor is limited by the frequency of the AC current, but by itself, a DC motor will spin faster and faster until something causes it to stop. Sometimes it is bearing rattle, sometimes back EMF or perhaps carbon brush bounce when the spring that holds the brush down hits critical frequncy, other times the interior rotor laminations will come apart and sever the coils..... that's actually not uncommon but real dangerous. And sometimes it just spins until things generally come apart.

At that point you can say, "Wow, that must have been a really good starter! Look at the mess it made!"

But you want an answer you can use.... and I don't have one. I can say some things that might help, though. In the tractor, after a few seconds it should be spinning that diesel engine fast enough that the individual compression strokes begin to blend together. At that point it should be spinning that diesel engine close to the slowest speed that the diesel would normally idle at if it was running on its own. Not the slowest throttle setting, but the slow speed right before the engine stops running.

If after a few seconds of cranking the engine it is still going: ker thump, wheeze, ker thump, wheeze, etc. and puffing smoke now and again then either the starter, battery, or solenoid needs attention. All three can be tested and rebuilt.

Here's a hint if you take the starter off to bench test it. Strap it down VERY well before you power it up or the torque reaction will throw right off the bench. Use large clamps and some scrap wood. And don't run it unloaded more than a second or two. After two or three seconds it should be already winding up past any reasonable RPM. Remember that the starter case is the negative connection.
luck,
rScotty

 

[bmaverick]

Big differences indeed. I also think around 250Kg is most likely for this kind of tractor. Thanks for all the additional info.

Still dealing with the bad starting thing....

How fast should it spin? Is there anyway to check this?

The OE starter is rated for 1.1Kw to 1.4Kw. The manufacture who supplies Yanmar with the starters also makes a 2.0Kw max version. I know, put one on my JD850 with a Yanmar 3T80 engine. It is night and day turning over the engine. Never had to use the thermostart in the winter with the 2.0Kw starter.

I have the sales receipt out in the garage with the p/n of the 2.0Kw starter.

Your starter is a Hitachi S114-235 or DENSO 121450-77010 out of a Datsun of the 1970s. Finding a 1.5Kw or 1.7Kw or 2.0Kw starter in an OSGR version would be ideal.

 

[winston1]

For what it is worth the 276 repair manual states 497 to 569 psi on compression test at 300rpm. That might indicate the starter could turn the engine at 300rpm. Same rpm given in the 220/226 manual.

 

[bmaverick]

For what it is worth the 276 repair manual states 497 to 569 psi on compression test at 300rpm. That might indicate the starter could turn the engine at 300rpm. Same rpm given in the 220/226 manual.

You are one who can really see beyond the details. I like that. :thumbsup:

 

[ajaukema]

Yesterday the battery was too low, so started the tractor with external power supply, much better!
Made me think of bad connections between cables and battery, cleaned it.
I charged the battery over night, it started a little better today.
The charger is only 1 Ampere, I need to get a real charger!
Hmmm I have 12.6 Volts when the tractor is turned off and I have 12.6 Volts when the tractor is running, so I guess the tractor is not charging itself

The wiring on the tractor is really a mess!

Anyone who has a high resolution wiring / schematic for the 186D?
There are some around but not shure if they are OK.
I noticed there is a relay under the dash, not shure why.
(Not the one for the L/R indicator)

The connector for the red lights on the dash was loose, reconnected it.
Do these lights indicate issues or indicate normal operation for the functions (temp/charge/oil)?
What is normal to expect?

 

[bmaverick]

Yesterday the battery was too low, so started the tractor with external power supply, much better!
Made me think of bad connections between cables and battery, cleaned it.
I charged the battery over night, it started a little better today.
The charger is only 1 Ampere, I need to get a real charger!
Hmmm I have 12.6 Volts when the tractor is turned off and I have 12.6 Volts when the tractor is running, so I guess the tractor is not charging itself

The wiring on the tractor is really a mess!

Anyone who has a high resolution wiring / schematic for the 186D?
There are some around but not shure if they are OK.
I noticed there is a relay under the dash, not shure why.
(Not the one for the L/R indicator)

The connector for the red lights on the dash was loose, reconnected it.
Do these lights indicate issues or indicate normal operation for the functions (temp/charge/oil)?
What is normal to expect?

Is your machine GREEN or RED of the YM186D ??? This will determine which of the parts manuals to look at. I have both the green and red tractor versions in PDF.

 

[winston1]

oil light should come on when the key is turned to the on position, should go off when engine cranks and oil pressure is achieved. Same with charge light. Temperature light should not come on at any time unless it overheats. You can unplug the wire at the sensor and touch it to ground for a test to see if the light works. Do this with key in on position.

Picture as plain as I can get it, sorry.