YM336D bad knocking engine

[murnere]

After working to gain access so I can turn over the engine, I can't help but thinking I'm doing something wrong. From what you all have posted, this shouldn't be as hard as I'm making it out to be, but I can barely get a socket on this nut and when I do, I can't move my strong arm at all.
From the pictures, can you tell if I'm in the right place? The red circle is where I can access the nut. The nut is way back and surrounded by everything.
Of course, it doesn't help that it looked like it would be a 17mm and I was too stupid to buy the whole set of deep wells since that would cost me $35 instead of $5 for just the 17mm.... when it turns out to be 19mm....I should have bought the set and saved the gas money and time. :confused3:

 

[CoyPatton]

I can not see much from your photos on my phone, but I suspect you are not on the right spot. Your crank bolt that you need to turn the motor over with will be in the center of the lowest pulley on the front of the engine.
Deep well and extension have been recommended because it is a dish type of recessed bolt. Follow your belt(s) down till they start to go back upward then look for a bolt head recessed inside that pulley.

Not a terribly good photo but the very center is where you want to be.

 

[CoyPatton]

Maybe a better photo

 

[Altona]

Hi Munere, Not sure what that bolt is in the picture but to rotate the crank and therefore everything else the bolt will be as CoyPatton has shown in the center of the bottom pulley. Not that I'm trying to make a big tough job harder it doesn't look to me like there is sufficient space to do it without taking the rad out of the way, perhaps there is but just be careful of the rad and your knuckles!

 

[clemsonfor]

After working to gain access so I can turn over the engine, I can't help but thinking I'm doing something wrong. From what you all have posted, this shouldn't be as hard as I'm making it out to be, but I can barely get a socket on this nut and when I do, I can't move my strong arm at all.
From the pictures, can you tell if I'm in the right place? The red circle is where I can access the nut. The nut is way back and surrounded by everything.
Of course, it doesn't help that it looked like it would be a 17mm and I was too stupid to buy the whole set of deep wells since that would cost me $35 instead of $5 for just the 17mm.... when it turns out to be 19mm....I should have bought the set and saved the gas money and time. :confused3:
View attachment 675148View attachment 675149

Always buy the set. You get to expand your tool collection.

 

[murnere]

I was finally able to get a 19mm deep well on the nut and successfully turn the engine. Cylinder 1 valves check ok. Cylinder 2 exhaust valve moves ok, but intake doesn't do anything. So I thought I'd start by making sure the push rod was straight and.....I dropped the lock nut down into the push rod slot. I saw it in there, but moved the rod and now I don't see it in there. I'm going to work with a magnet to find it. Unfortunately, that stops my valve work because I don't want to turn the engine over until I get the nut out.
I even told myself, "don't drop this nut," as I took it off the intake valve.
I couldn't have gotten this far without all of your all's help.

 

[clemsonfor]

I am lost here?? What nut did you take off where:confused3:. To adjust the valves you should be removing any nuts?

Ok nevermind I re read it. Looks like you took the nut off to pull the push rod out to check to make sure it was straight.

 

[winston1]

Not that it makes any difference setting the valves but after viewing one of your pictures I have to wonder if you possibly have a front auxiliary pto?

 

[murnere]

Yes, I took the nut off, unnecessarily, so I could check that the rod was straight. Boy, I wish I hadn't done that now.
Winston, I do not have a front PTO, but shortly after I moved away to college in '86, my father had hydraulics added to the tractor and a Great Bend FEL. I guess we didn't need a FEL as long as I was doing the shoveling/lifting. :laughing:

 

[CoyPatton]

Once you recover the nut, you need to get the motor so that it is in the compression or the power/fire stroke for that cylinder.
Reinstall the push rod and rocker arm but leave slack on the valve stem. Watch the push rods to determine when you are on one of those strokes. Them set your 0.006” gap. Now you can follow the Hoye link process yo get the correct placement of the cylinder piston to properly set the gap. It sounds as though you have only done 3 of the 6 valves to this point. Finish cylinder 2 then check cylinder 3. But it really sounds as though someone has played with valve or failed to tighten the rocker arm lock nut and vibration caused an issue.
Hopefully no other damage and no more accidental drops. But don’t feel too bad, if folks will not admit to such things, either they never do anything or they L** about others stuff also!