Log splitter connections

[korydz]

I am looking at a Powerhorse 1159 wood splitter for use with my BX2660. I understand the limited volume of my tractor results in relatively slow performace with most splitters, but I've read that many owners of similar tractors are able to use this one with more than acceptable performance.

My question is what is the best way to connect this splitter to my tractor? I don't have rear remotes; just the an FEL and its controls. I've read about connecting to the dump/curl circuit and then using a bungee cord to hold the joystick. This seems hokey. I've also read that damage to the splitter's controls could result by using the 3ph while the joystick was engaged like this.

Would it work to connect to the FEL lift/lower circuit, and then put the control in the float postion? I could get rear remotes installed (at some cost), but I suspect that they are 1/4" lines rather than the 3/8" lines that are at the FEL, which would result in less flow. I want the highest flow, best performing way of doing this.

It is probably clear by now that I am a little confused on this.

 

[TheFlatlander]

I have also thought about this. the flow off this tractor is a little bit on the light side when the discussions have been about operating a splitter off of the rear add on remote, and make some of the splitters operate a little slow. If I were to be looking to add a splitter I would look at a rear pto hydraulic pump. this would make it easier to enable you to get the proper flow that you would want and be better able to take advantage of the extra power available on the BX2660 at the PTO.

 

[kennyd]

The splitter will work connected to the FEL valve's lift/lower circuit, but NOT while it's in the float position, there is NO fluid flow and both ports are OPEN allowing the FEL to float.

The "best" way to hook it up is with a "power beyond" circuit that you can buy from your dealer or make yourself by extending two hoses from your FEL valve to the rear of the tractor.

There are lots of post's like this in the hydraulic forum if you want to do some searching.

 

[BXRICK]

The best way would be to get a PTO hydraulic pump, tank, filter, etc.

What I did with my BX1500, and a 3pt log splitter, is to us ethe FEL circuit.
When one disconnects the FEL, there is a closed loop hose that gets installed. I'm sure it has a clever name.
Anyway, I use that circuit. The splitter is put in series with that hose.
The downside is that I can't use the FEL while the splitter is in use. But then, the only thing I'd use it for is moving wood onto the splitter, which, of course, can't be done sinc ethe splitter is on the rear of the tractor.
The other downside is that it requires some pretty long hoses. But it sure was easy to get going.

 

[kennyd]

The best way would be to get a PTO hydraulic pump, tank, filter, etc.

What I did with my BX1500, and a 3pt log splitter, is to us ethe FEL circuit.
When one disconnects the FEL, there is a closed loop hose that gets installed. I'm sure it has a clever name.
Anyway, I use that circuit. The splitter is put in series with that hose.
The downside is that I can't use the FEL while the splitter is in use. But then, the only thing I'd use it for is moving wood onto the splitter, which, of course, can't be done sinc ethe splitter is on the rear of the tractor.
The other downside is that it requires some pretty long hoses. But it sure was easy to get going.

The "clever name" is "Power Beyond" as I stated in my previous post. You could set your up so the loader will continue to work with some QD's...

 

[korydz]

Kennyd, you seem to have a handle on this. Is it possible to connect the splitter to the FEL connections AND still have the FEL function? This would be ideal. I'm not too concerned about the length of the hoses as I'm sure I can find a clever way to deal with those. If rear remotes are the highest performance and cleanest way to do this, I'd gladly add them, but not if they have restricted flow.

I'm hoping someone can spell this out for me or point me to the right resources.

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd, you seem to have a handle on this. Is it possible to connect the splitter to the FEL connections AND still have the FEL function? This would be ideal. I'm not too concerned about the length of the hoses as I'm sure I can find a clever way to deal with those. If rear remotes are the highest performance and cleanest way to do this, I'd gladly add them, but not if they have restricted flow.

I'm hoping someone can spell this out for me or point me to the right resources.

On your FEL valve, there is a port marked PB (powerbeyond) that has a hose that goes towards the rear to feed the 3PH.

You would disconnect this hose at the rear, and put a QD on it, then add a hose from there back to where you took the other hose from. This is your 'powerbeyond loop".

To run the splitter, you would unhook this "loop" and plug the splitter in-effectively putting the splitter is series between the FEL valve and the 3PH.

To unhook the splitter, just remove it from the loop and couple the hoses on the tractor back together. These hoses MUST be connected together whenever the tractor is running because the full flow of the hydraulic system runs though them all the time.

A search of the term "powerbeyond" will also turn up lots more info...

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Kennyd, you seem to have a handle on this. Is it possible to connect the splitter to the FEL connections AND still have the FEL function? This would be ideal. I'm not too concerned about the length of the hoses as I'm sure I can find a clever way to deal with those. If rear remotes are the highest performance and cleanest way to do this, I'd gladly add them, but not if they have restricted flow.

I'm hoping someone can spell this out for me or point me to the right resources.

Korydz, given the information form Kenny D and other TBNer (thank you all) I installed a rear loop to feed my powerhorse splitter on my 7510.

dealer wanted $300, I did it for less than $200 and it can be done cheaper . I was in a rush, so I had the hoses custom made locally. If you buy from surplus sales center or northern tool I bet you can do it for under $125...

Need pictures, send me a private message with your email address and I'll send you some...

Good luck...

 

[korydz]

Thanks KennyD and FirefighterKubota. The only question I have left is does the FEL and the 3PH still operate with the splitter in series?

Also, I think I'm going to go with the Split Fire 3203 instead of the Powerhorse. Splitfire quoted me $1000+freight which given our dollar and the shipping from the US, it puts it pretty close in price and gives me 24" capacity and what looks like a stronger unit (it weighs twice as much).

The other advantage is buying something that is Canadian made and I know I'll get better service from a small outfit in Canada than I will from a big corporation.

FFK, I'll PM you for pics.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks KennyD and FirefighterKubota. The only question I have left is does the FEL and the 3PH still operate with the splitter in series?

Yes, they will.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Thanks KennyD and FirefighterKubota. The only question I have left is does the FEL and the 3PH still operate with the splitter in series?

Also, I think I'm going to go with the Split Fire 3203 instead of the Powerhorse. Splitfire quoted me $1000+freight which given our dollar and the shipping from the US, it puts it pretty close in price and gives me 24" capacity and what looks like a stronger unit (it weighs twice as much).

Kory make sure you check the size of the cylinder (bore) for that unit. Anything larger than 3" will be very slow with your tractor.. Also Does that split both directions? I think so but don't rememeber. Bi directional splitting helps speed up splitting with slower hydraulic systems.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Kory here are the pics you requested.

#1 is the PB port on the loader valve, the original line was removed dn this now runs to the rear of the tractor with quick connects

#2 are the quick connects on the tractor

#3 are the QC on the splitter

#4 is the return line from the Rear QC to the hydraulic block, From here the hydraulics then feed the 3 pt hitch.

#5 it the 3' line that originally went from pic #1 to #4.

Very simple.

But as Kenny pointed out..the rear QC need to be coupled together or to the splitter to make a continuos loop at all times. (make sure your splitter valve is n OPEN Center, Should come fromthe factory that way)

As long as the QC are connected or QC to the splitter all hydraulic functions operate as usual . Also you will want to shut down the tractor, when makeing connections as the pump is always circulating fluid...

Good luck..

 

[korydz]

FFK, thanks for the pics. I'll respond to your PM when I get a chance. The Split-Fire 3203 has a 3.5" x 24" cylinder and does split both ways. According to Matt at Split-fire, my BX will run this in 8-9 seconds. If I can keep up, that's two splits every 20 seconds or so. Pretty quick.

http://www.split-fire.com/splitter_3p_3203.html

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

FFK, thanks for the pics. I'll respond to your PM when I get a chance. The Split-Fire 3203 has a 3.5" x 24" cylinder and does split both ways. According to Matt at Split-fire, my BX will run this in 8-9 seconds. If I can keep up, that's two splits every 20 seconds or so. Pretty quick.

Split-Fire Sales Inc. :: 3203 Woodsplitter :: Quality Built. High Performance. Split-Fire - Your Best Choice

I did look at that unit...The powerhorse was substainally less money, almost $300 , my wood stoves don't take anything larger than 18" so I didn't need the length, and with the length there is alot more splitter sticking out the rear of the tractor...

If I had a larger stove I might have gotten the split-fire.

Good luck

 

[korydz]

OK, just when I thought I had this all figured out, I actually got a chance to look at my BX2660 and I'm lost all over again. The BX2660 has an integrated FEL control so all of the plumbing is well hidden and tightly packaged. The result is that there is no clear indication of which line is the power beyond circuit.

I believe that it will be far easier to extend the existing line at the rear of the tractor than trying to replace the line all the way from the front. What I need to know now from the vast knowledge of TBN is which connection is the PB? I may be able to figure it out with some exploratory surgery, but I'd rather go in with some education.

Also, if anyone can tell me if this will interfere with the future addition of rear remotes, that would be a bonus.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

OK, just when I thought I had this all figured out, I actually got a chance to look at my BX2660 and I'm lost all over again. The BX2660 has an integrated FEL control so all of the plumbing is well hidden and tightly packaged. The result is that there is no clear indication of which line is the power beyond circuit.

On the valve assembly there should be a PB stamped into the valve...Also this line will run from the valve assembly to the hydraulic block. On the block there is a line running out into the valve and a second one returning.. Your block may look different but here is a reference picture.

I believe that it will be far easier to extend the existing line at the rear of the tractor than trying to replace the line all the way from the front

Pictures tell alot. I'm not familier with your lay out so take some pics and post them of your "rear" line

Also, if anyone can tell me if this will interfere with the future addition of rear remotes, that would be a bonus.

Really need to see your set up.., Pictures !!!

 

[korydz]

Finally got pictures. Here's the view from the right side and rear. I assume this is the right spot since this is where the lines for the FEL originate. Let me know if you need to see more.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Right, are there any markings on your FEL valve where the lines go in? Look for PB (if not ask your dealer which one is the PB Power beyond)

From your picture it SHOULD be the line on the left when looking at the side. (unless kubota ran the system backwards) Thats the line you want to remove entirely and run a new line from the fel to a set of quick connects at the rear, and then back to the hydraulic block.

keep the QC connected when operating the tractor, and connected to the slpitter when it is mounted.

You need to SHUT the tractor off when making connections as the hydraulics are always flowing when the tractor is running..

Let me know if you have any questions..

 

[korydz]

OK guys, I'm pretty confident that I've got this. A little research and exploratory surgery netted the following pictures. One is from the parts book, and the other from my FEL valve. The line I need to tap into is the one marked BY on the valve and listed as PB on the diagram, right? This would make it the forward of the pair of lines at the rear as in the third picture, according to the parts diagram and from tracing it back from the FEL valve.

So, what I intend to do is to extend the PB line at the rear point just before it goes into the elbow. Then I'll rotate the elbow rearward and extend a line from there. The two new lines will be coupled together until I want to connect the splitter, then I will uncouple and insert the splitter. If this all sounds good, let me know.

My only outright question is does it matter which side connects to what line on the splitter? My thoughts are that it doesn't since the PB circuit is just providing flow and the splitter valve directs it. It shouldn't matter which quick connects are male or female, and I shouldn't have to mark them, right?

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

OK guys, I'm pretty confident that I've got this. A little research and exploratory surgery netted the following pictures. One is from the parts book, and the other from my FEL valve. The line I need to tap into is the one marked BY on the valve and listed as PB on the diagram, right? This would make it the forward of the pair of lines at the rear as in the third picture, according to the parts diagram and from tracing it back from the FEL valve.

So, what I intend to do is to extend the PB line at the rear point just before it goes into the elbow. Then I'll rotate the elbow rearward and extend a line from there. The two new lines will be coupled together until I want to connect the splitter, then I will uncouple and insert the splitter. If this all sounds good, let me know.

My only outright question is does it matter which side connects to what line on the splitter? My thoughts are that it doesn't since the PB circuit is just providing flow and the splitter valve directs it. It shouldn't matter which quick connects are male or female, and I shouldn't have to mark them, right?

You are correct on most accounts, except your spitter valve ports will be labeled IN and OUT . if you reveresed the flow I don't think it will harm anything but it WAS designed with a flow in a particular direction...so on your initial installation, make sure the PB line goes to the IN side. Once you've done it once with the quick connects, it will line up every other time.

Good Luck.