My suggestion would be to put an implement on your 3pt and take some TL length measurements at vertical, and at the angles at which you see yourself working, and make sure the range of the TL you choose includes those numbers.
That is the best way to determine the REAL length of your top link.
Most cylinders are measured center to center of the connection eyes and clevis. I'm pretty sure CCM is no different. You can ask (or look up) what is the fully closed distance and fully extended distance. Compare that to what you measure with your implement tilted front to back and visa versa.
A consideration would be to add another hole in the implement top link attachment if needed to get the desired tilt. Even if you have to add a plate to it. You might not need to do that all your implements either, just the ones that don't have the desired tilt front to back.
As far as the valve, you can get adapters to screw into the valve such as for the Prince SV valve. I think they are ORB 8 (1/2 SAE) that screw into the valve. The other end of the connector adapter can be just about anything you want it to be, either male or female. I used JIC 8 for the other end instead of NPT. Much easier to work with.
Here's a link to that:
ORB FITTINGS/CONNECTORS/ADAPTERS
Discount Hydraulics also has Metric and British connectors like what you need for that CCM top link DPOCV and the cylinder ports.
In case you ever need to alter or change etc. I have several of those DPOCV's on many cylinders for my tractor(s), so I've researched what threads they are.
The ports to the cylinders (and the banjo bolt thread) is 3/8 BSPP (parallel thread). The threads going into the DPOCV itself are 3/8 BSP (tapered thread). I see they used an adapter connector on your check valve going from BSP to 3/8 NPT, but you could have used any other connection if you want.
Here is a link to some of those connectors/adapters:
BRITISH/METRIC CONNECTORS/ADAPTERS
As far as your hoses, I use their re-usable hose ends.
That makes making your hoses in your garage easy. You can make them the EXACT length you want plus have a JIC hose end on them. You could even alter the hose a little if it was too long or if say a 90 degree fitting was facing the wrong way. Cost for these re-usable hose ends plus cost of the hose was less than what you paid for your hoses. They hold up just the same and are reusable but offer so much more when you get to make up yourself.
For example, I paid $1.50 a foot for 2 wire 3/8" hose and between $10 and $18 for the ends. So a 4' long hose cost me $32 bucks and it is a perfect fit ... perfect ends facing the right way etc.
Here is a link to that:
RE-USABLE HOSE ENDS
I hope some of that information helps...
Rob-
