Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link

   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #11  
Any reason why this cylinder would not be good, it does have 10" of travel as opposed to 8".

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Retracted would be 17.5 so extended would be 27.5, giving 6.5" travel inwards and only 3.5 outward?
does this sound a good fit for general use?

Only reason I can see is that the eye on the cylinder end is too close to the cylinder's end.
If you mount it the obvious way with the rod to the rear there is a VERY good chance that the end of the cylinder will foul the tractor top link mounting point. If you mount it the other way around - according to your implements - it will probably foul against the implement's top link mount.

Look up the MCM ones here;
http://www.ccmachinery.com/public_html/images/Hyd_Cat_1_long.JPG
Hydraulic toplinks and Forged Bale Spears

to see how far the eye needs to be from the end of the cylinder, the fatter the cylinder the farther out it needs to be.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #12  
I don't think I need anything that customized, do you actually cut the rod to get the exact fit? I still don't have enough of a grasp of this to order one yet. I can weld so that wouldn't be a problem if it's easier to get what I want.
Measured mine again today, with the threaded adjustable top link it goes from 19" fully retracted (threaded in) to 29" fully extended, both measurements are pin to pin, 24" is right in the middle with the i-match quick hitch straight. That's why I figure I need the 10" stroke.
All my implements will attach to the i-match so nothing will change there, I couldn't find any info on the smartfarmer HTL as all they have is a price, not even a picture.

If you buy a generic welded cyl, you need to cut off the cross tubes and
weld on swivel eyes. You add length to a 2x8 or 2x10 by welding a chunk
of steel betw the the fat end's swivel eye and the body of the cyl. The
HTL I linked above is listed as 20" closed, which means it is 28" open if it
uses an 8" stroke cyl. If I recall, I bought one of those several years ago.

If your Imatch midpoint also supports your implement at midpoint, then you
are fine. It may not do that.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #13  
Hi,

This below might help you. I ordered a premade Carter & Carter, with hoses, for ~ 200$. Wasn't worth the hassle to me to buy wrong linkages, return them, try another one, etc.

Not 100% sure that the 4x10's have the same 3pt as the 4x20's, but I'd guess they're close.

Most of you likely have done this already, but FYI I went out and measured my 4720's top link fully retracted and extended. It was 19.5" retracted and 30" extended. When it was fully retracted my quick hitch was maybe at a 15 degree angle "toe backwards". When it was fully extended it was 30 - 40 degrees "toe forward". I dunno what function would ever need that much toe forward, so I'm going with the 18 - 26.5" CCM top link, thus giving me more useful toe backward (ie. to make dirt/snow/etc roll when blading), and less meaningless toe forward.

I hope that helps.

-J.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Yea, I've come to the conclusion that I need the same as you have jgrreed (cat1 2" cyl 18-26.5 w/chk valve), as mine measured 19"-29" with my i-match QH, almost ordered one today from CCM, but was toying with the idea of their 21"-32" though that's probably more than I would ever use/need.

Thanks to the replies of everyone here I was able to call local hydraulic specialty shops in the area and intelligently specify exactly what I wanted, but to my surprise none of them had much experience with cylinders for this application and said they would have to special order one.

So how do you like yours, must make hooking up implements even easier combined with the QH. also how fast does it move? I have the 3rd scv remotes and with the western snow plow SA cylinders it's way to fast, I'm sure they were never designed for this amount of PSI/GPM.
With the check valve is there no bleed down even if the lines are not connected? with the plow on the 3pt I'll be using the 3rd scv for angling the plow and the 3pt for raising and lowering, I'm wondering if I'll have to put the manual TL back on, due to significant bleed down.

Pictures, one shows my new plow which I wont need the HTL for and the other shows my 3pt modded forks which would greatly benefit from the HTL. Another pic shows where I got the idea for 3pt forks, I never thought I would get the HTL but since I did the 3rd scv for the plow, I might as well get the HTL, I'm sure it will come in handy for my other back blade, box and rake.
JB.
 

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   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #15  
Don't have it yet, but I'll let you know once i do.

-J.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #16  
Don't have it yet, but I'll let you know once i do.

-J.
I called your work and told them we shipped it out early last week. US Postal is not that fast but the customs thing with UPS is expensive to Canada. Thanks for the business. Mark
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #17  
Can somebody advise me on what type of valve I need for a hydraulic top link? I have a Ford 1900 that would need to add the control valve for a top link. I would prefer small in size.

thanks,
Randy
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #18  
Yea, I've come to the conclusion that I need the same as you have jgrreed (cat1 2" cyl 18-26.5 w/chk valve), as mine measured 19"-29" with my i-match QH, almost ordered one today from CCM, but was toying with the idea of their 21"-32" though that's probably more than I would ever use/need.

JB.

I wouldn't get the 21" to 32". The face of your blade will be pointing to the sky when it's fully extended, and you wont have a lot of option in terms of tilting the blade foward to get dirt/snow/etc to 'roll'.

JMO....

-J.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link #19  
I called your work and told them we shipped it out early last week. US Postal is not that fast but the customs thing with UPS is expensive to Canada. Thanks for the business. Mark

Thanks Mark. Carrie told me you had called. I appreciate the call and look forward to getting the TL on and running.

You're not kidding about UPS's 'helpful' brokerage service. Their brokerage fees can be 50$, 60$, or higher, even though the duty/GST/etc is usually much less than that.

Thanks again.

-J.
 
   / Help specifying Hydraulic Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Let me know how it works when you get it, you must be off the beaten path, been waiting a long time.
What do you plan on using it for? I haven't ordered one yet as I have a power angle plow on the 3pt now for snow and have no more available hyds.
JB.
 

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