Securing Equipment on Trailer

[JohnDeere4300]

I have no photos to offer. I am not an expert and did not offer input on this topic until I saw your photos of an improperly bound piece of equipment.

Even in your Avatar the rear chain is hooked behind your trailer fenders.


Gary has provided excellent photos. also securing both the loader attachment and the backhoe attachment.

1) If it is a improperly bound piece of equipment._*I wouldn't haul it.*

2)

Even in my Avatar the chain is hooked behind my fenders.

* Can you see where Gary's is hooked.___*Behind the Fenders.*

* Go to page 1 and see where JB's is hooked.

(Where would you hook yours.__ Around the fenders or the wheels.)

3)

Gary is securing the loader and backhoe attachment.

* Go to page 1 and

what attachment is secured on the front and rear of JB's.

If the bucket is hooked up in the pins right and chained down, and down on the trailer floor,__ *You would have to take a cutting torch to get it off the tractor*

 

[Diamondpilot]

I think what he means is there is no angle on the chains. You have them positioned right aft of the fenders, they need to be back about 3 feet towards the ramps. You have the chains pulling left and right.

They should come off at a 45 deg angle minimum from the piece of equipment you are hauling both front and back.

Chris

 

[JB4310]

I've spent close to $350. at AWdirect in the last few days, Picked up some more chain, another ratcheting binder, a bunch of different type hooks and repair clevis gizmo's for other chains I have.

Now I have 4 corners covered, 2 - 7.5' G70 3/8" chains, and 2 - 3/8" ungraded 8' pieces, 2 new G70 binders and 2 G40 binders, I had 2 - 2 ton straps I'll use for implements
That stuff is heavy, I put it all in a pail and couldn't lift it

I think I got lucky finding the attachment points on my tractor, both front and back seem to be ideal and when I bound it down you could see it was not going anywhere. I read some safety warnings on the transport grade stuff where it refers to 30 degree minimum angles?

I didn't see jd4300's pics so I can't comment on them, but checking some other threads here on TBN I saw some setups that did not look safe at all, Seen some pics of tractors where they were tied straight forward and straight back, nothing pulling opposing corners, looked like potential for lateral movement like that?

I'll get some more pics soon, JB

 

[JohnDeere4300]

I think what he means is there is no angle on the chains. You have them positioned right aft of the fenders, they need to be back about 3 feet towards the ramps. You have the chains pulling left and right.

They should come off at a 45 deg angle minimum from the piece of equipment you are hauling both front and back.

Chris

You didn't see how i bind it down, so how would you know.

 

[Mundy]

Johndeere4300,
It is your combination of the front and rear chains. They are both pulling toward the rear.
The front and rear bindings should pull on the equipment in opposite direction. As you said your fenders are in the way so the rear chains have to angle back. This angle pulls down and toward the rear. Thats great as long as the front pulls down and forward. Your front is hooked to the trailer behind the point it is secured to the tractor so it is also pulling down and back. The front a rear both pulling to the back locks your tractor in place against the parking brake or transmission.
The binding alone should hold the equipment securly in place.

What would happen if you placed your tractor in neutral and release the parking brake when you haul?

 

[Dargo]

I use two straps on whenever I'm hauling. On the rear, if I don't have anything on the 3PH, I go thru the tires, and then catch the front on the loader arms with another. I put the straps so that they pull towards each other. I used to use the ratcheting load binders but now I only use the ratcheting straps.

I have seen loads come off before and don't ever want to have it happen to me. I feel confident with the two straps, never go over sharp edges with them with out using something to protect against abrasion. About a year ago I got to see a D4H come off of a tag-a-long near my house, not a big tractor but was hard to handle upside down in the middle of the road. But I need to add that he just wasn't going down the road and it fell off, someone came into his lane and he got off on the side of the road and the trailer slid into the ditch before hitting a driveway culvert.

You do know that you have the perfect recipe for disaster, don't you? If you use only 2 straps, you are most likely a danger to everyone on the road, but illegal. I don't know what size tractor you have, but if it's more than a garden tractor, you are taking a huge risk. Trust me, I know only too well that 2 10k rated straps on the front and rear of a tractor, not even touching any sharp edges, can easily fail on a straight road. I can't imagine how dangerous it is only using only 1 strap on either end. Please tell us that you only have a small garden tractor.

**edit**

OMG!!! I just read your profile and see that you have a L5030. That's exactly the tractor I had on my trailer that snapped 2 10k rated (fine print says 3300 WLL) straps on each end nearly caused a complete disaster. All it took was a dip in the road for the trailer to flex and snap the straps when it flexed back. Many people here have seen the long thread on that incident. Since then, I've never ever used a strap ever since to secure any tractor to a trailer. If you're only using one strap on either end of that tractor, I'll tell you now, you are most certainly a danger to everyone on the road and are taking a HUGE chance of losing your tractor and severely injuring or killing other innocent drivers.

 

[JB4310]

You do know that you have the perfect recipe for disaster, don't you? If you use only 2 straps, you are most likely a danger to everyone on the road, but illegal. I don't know what size tractor you have, but if it's more than a garden tractor, you are taking a huge risk. Trust me, I know only too well that 2 10k rated straps on the front and rear of a tractor, not even touching any sharp edges, can easily fail on a straight road. I can't imagine how dangerous it is only using only 1 strap on either end. Please tell us that you only have a small garden tractor.

**edit**

OMG!!! I just read your profile and see that you have a L5030. That's exactly the tractor I had on my trailer that snapped 2 10k rated (fine print says 3300 WLL) straps on each end nearly caused a complete disaster. All it took was a dip in the road for the trailer to flex and snap the straps when it flexed back. Many people here have seen the long thread on that incident. Since then, I've never ever used a strap ever since to secure any tractor to a trailer. If you're only using one strap on either end of that tractor, I'll tell you now, you are most certainly a danger to everyone on the road and are taking a HUGE chance of losing your tractor and severely injuring or killing other innocent drivers.

I didn't see anything in his post that said what capacity strap he was using, they have webbing gear that can lift a house. Actually I didn't get a good picture in my mind exactly how he was attaching his tractor to the trailer.

As long as the strapping is rated for the load I don't see how chain would be safer, guys have used just one chain on the front and one on the rear for ages.

I've found in my one day of experience in equipment hauling, it's just easier to grab all 4 corners and pull against each other, less stress on everything and a good solid secure load which means less stress on the operator the cost difference is just the 2 extra binders, cut the long chains in half and your done.

The first time I hauled my tractor in my enclosed dump trailer I used only one strap on front and one on back, they were only rated for 2 ton each, that still exceeds the weight of the tractor but I wouldn't trust that on an open platform like an equipment trailer. With the dump trailer there were only 4 D-rings so you were limited to how you could tie things down. With this long Equipment trailer with the many stake pockets and continuous rub rail there are many places to attach to the trailer for the optimal safe tie down.

The area people seem to be having trouble is how to grab the tractor, I looked at the back of mine yesterday and determined if I didn't have those available BH attachment holes it would be a pain tieing down the back side, would have to try and get chain over axle which there is not much room and many parts to potentially damage.

Everybody stay safe and offer more solutions/ideas to this issue.

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You didn't see how i bind it down, so how would you know.

We are talking about the picture in the avatar.

Chris

 

[Dargo]

I didn't see anything in his post that said what capacity strap he was using, they have webbing gear that can lift a house. Actually I didn't get a good picture in my mind exactly how he was attaching his tractor to the trailer.

JB.

Ok, in 5 minutes find a place on the internet that sells strapping with ends that can be secured on a trailer with a WLL of 5600 pounds or higher. My guess is the only place you will find is AW Direct and then you'll find basket slings. To get to the higher ratings, you'll spend many, many times the price of G70 chain. I'm yet to see anyone on here who uses straps who aren't using the 2" wide straps that say 10,000 rating real big on the straps. With those, positively, 1 on each end is inadequate. Being that most guys here don't want to spend the money for U.S. made chain over Chinese made chain, I doubt someone is going to spend 4X the cost of U.S. made chain for the appropriate sized straps. Even then, most every state in the union is going to require 4 attachments; one on each corner for loads weighing over 2000 pounds. No matter how you slice it, using 2 straps to secure a tractor is an accident waiting to happen.

 

[Dargo]

The first time I hauled my tractor in my enclosed dump trailer I used only one strap on front and one on back, they were only rated for 2 ton each, that still exceeds the weight of the tractor...
JB.

If you only use securing equipment equal to the weigh of your tractor, you are way under secured. You need to account for shock loads that will be more than the weight of your tractor. Using only the weight of your tractor as a guide to be equal to your binders will get you in big trouble eventually. That is not safe.