2520 First Service & Questions
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kennyd
Advertiser
Only the fluid that is put in at the factory is RED, the JD Hy-Guard fluid is NOT red but like a light brown color.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
If you drained the two final drives, removed and cleaned the screen, and changed the spin-on filter, it takes 17 quarts to refill it properly. The new JD oil will be more clear than the orig red stuff, so won't show very well in the window. There is a dipstick under the seat. Yellow handle. Very tough to get to and replace after checking. If you check your dipstick you will see yours is way overfilled. Drain some off. Save what you drain if you can. Strain it thru a paint strainer and put it back in the jug. Good luck.
WH401
Platinum Member
What Amsoil fluid did you use? because as far as I know the Synthetic Hydraulic/Transmission oil, which is the closest direct replacement of JD Hygard that Amsoil offers, is of a light brown/golden color.
thatguy
Elite Member
I had a similar problem with my 2320.. i didnt measure the fluid coming out and just kept putting more in.. I did run the engine to check the sight glass - but kept adding more fluid and running the engine and it never showed in the glass
WHEN the oil started coming out of the fill hole I knew I had too much.. :-(
Then as I drained it I would stop and run the engine (high rpms) and turn on the rear PTO.. The oil was in the sight glass the first time the PTO was run. OOPS
I would drain fluid. Then run the engine/pto until the window was about 1/2 way with the engine turned off.
Brian
WHEN the oil started coming out of the fill hole I knew I had too much.. :-(
Then as I drained it I would stop and run the engine (high rpms) and turn on the rear PTO.. The oil was in the sight glass the first time the PTO was run. OOPS
I would drain fluid. Then run the engine/pto until the window was about 1/2 way with the engine turned off.
Brian
Hi WH,
Not sure but I think it was red in the sight glass. Won't be using it in my new guy when I do the change at 50 though. It always had a strong smell like it was burning and its expansion was greater then Deere oil. I constantly had to break the quick connects on the power beyond when I put the BH on or took it off. I'm still debating if I will use it in the engine. I still have some of their diesel engine oil left.
Everyone I talk to says Deere oil is very good and I have no reason to doubt it.
WH401
Platinum Member
Ah, I see. Ive had good experience with their 15w-40 diesel oil. I run it in a 7.3 in a Ford Excursion and I change it once a year. The UOA always comes back looking good and I plan to change the tractor over to it at 100 hrs.
I like synthetics, don't get me wrong. I run Mobil 1 in my Subaru Outback but the chain tensioners are noisy when it starts up as it doesn't keep the tensioners full when the car idles. I don't know if the Porsche boxer engine has the same problem though. I don't get this with dino oil.
I use Amsoil in my 2 cycle bikes and there it really shines not that it's bad in the tractor, it makes winter starting easier so it will probably stay in that use. I just put Mobil 1 in the Ztrak so I'll see how it works out.
In the hydraulics the odor is very noticeable and it must have a greater expansion rate because I don't run into the quick connect trouble with Deere oil as often. Also the power may be a little lower although I haven't had the 2320 in awhile.
Actually I think Deere is a semi-synthetic. An oil engineer was saying that because of the reduced size of the molecules in synthetics the semi-synthetic is a better overall oil. He should know he did it his whole life.
Thing is, modern oils are so superior that most work very well and remember sythetic is still dino oil, just modded.
If you have a car with CSK then synthetics are usually noisier at startup at least till the pistons expand to their working size.
I don't know who makes Deere's oil but it's not cheap!
By the way my Subie gets an honest 27+ mpg combined with synthetic.
Rob
