John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[dfkrug]

Yes it is a hodge-podge in a lot of ways. I'm ecstatic that NPT fittings weren't used at all! When I added my hydraulic top-link, JIC and BSPP fittings entered into the mix since the cylinder and check valve came from Italy.

BSPP! I have never had to deal with that British stuff....I buy enough
adapters as it is. One of my current hold-ups is I need to place another
big order with DiscHydHose. I am converting my FEL hoses/cyls to
JIC from ORFS cuz it will cost less to replace everything, even with
buying more adapters. I try to keep a stock of extra adapters as the
minimum shipping cost is $10. (I sure wish businesses would use
the USPS instead of UPS or FedEX!)

As for NPT, it is hard to avoid those if you use QA couplers!

Anyway thanks for the support, Matt, and the rest of you who have
given me all the positive feedback. Views on this thread may hit 25,000
this weekend.

 

[dfkrug]

Now to install the engine onto the bellhousing.

Rather than mounting the engine first to the front subframe, I will use my
overhead hoist to lift and guide the engine onto the HST input shaft. I
think I can get finer control this way.

First I set up the engine by lifting it off the stand and mounting the flywheel
and flex plate (pix 1 and 2). The infamous flexplate has been replaced
under warranty when these tractors were young. Apparently, the rivets
failed. The flex plate is easy to see on a working tractor thru the open
bottom of the bellhousing. You JD owners, keep an eye on yours!

Next you can see me guiding the engine toward the visible HST spline shaft.
Murphy's Law says the splines will not line up perfectly, so I just brought
them together with the slightest force, then rotated the crankshaft using
the crank pulley bolt. At the slightest turn, it went right in. Easy.

 

[jeff408]

What do you mean keep an eye on the flexplate? Also the inline filter for your power beyond looks like mine was it the older style? I have been listning to you and I have rerouted the fuel return hose, I could see where it was rubbing on the intake hose. Thats an easy mod to prevent future problems.

 

[mjncad]

BSPP! I have never had to deal with that British stuff....I buy enough
adapters as it is.

Actually the BSPP isn't bad because it's like ORB, except there is an extra flat metal washer to keep the O-ring corralled. I like ORB better than BSPP because of the aforementioned metal washer and BSPP is uncommon and therefore more expensive. If it were BSPT, the British equivalent of NPT, I'd be grousing.

 

[Wayne_H]

You know, with all that work you're putting into this, when you are finally done it would probably make sense to store it in a heating garage next to my 4400 to keep it company. Let me know if you need a place to keep it warm!

Wayne

 

[dfkrug]

Actually the BSPP isn't bad because it's like ORB, except there is an extra flat metal washer to keep the O-ring corralled.

It seems the FEL QA couplers are -6 Parker 60 series (ISO-B) with -6
ORB connections. Most of my QAs I buy at Discount Hyd Hose and they
seem to offer only NPT connections.

 

[dfkrug]

You know, with all that work you're putting into this, when you are finally done it would probably make sense to store it in a heating garage next to my 4400 to keep it company. Let me know if you need a place to keep it warm!

Well, I am going to sell it, Wayne, but it may cost a bit to ship to the
E coast....

 

[dfkrug]

What do you mean keep an eye on the flexplate? Also the inline filter for your power beyond looks like mine was it the older style?

Several of the flex plates on these rental tractors failed early in their
service life. They are made like a sandwich of rubber and steel, and it
looks like springs. There are a bunch of rivets that failed, according to
reports. I never saw it. Look up inside your underside opening and you
will see what I mean.

My inline filter in the PB circuit is the first generation, as far as I know.
I also have the early style power steering cylinder and tie rods.

 

[dfkrug]

In these 2 pix, I am now up to a rolling chassis.

To connect up the front axle subframe, I manually rolled it up to the engine,
which was elevated to about a foot off the floor. It is easy to balance the
subframe over the axle and tilt it as needed to line up with only the rear
upper bolt hole on the engine oil pan. Once I got those 2 bolts to line up,
I snugged them up and lowered the engine to line up all the others. Easy.

 

[grainger12002]

Awesome work DF, Have you kept track of the time you have into this project so far? This looks to be a better than new once complete. I appreciate your taking the time and photos to share witht he rest of us, thanks all the way from CT !!!