Electric diverter..

jd2305cd · Oct 22, 2009

To get my plow setup on track, I need to add the 3rd function up front. Going to go with the electric divert, after reading many threads by kenny and others that seems to be a great way to do it..

Question, what diverter do i need and where did you get it.. Also does anyone have a link to an old thread on the install, my search came up empty, lots of talking, not much on the install.. does it come with all the wiring and switch?

To test my knowledge, this goes on the dump/curl line, when I toggle the switch i then can move the joystick to move the 3rd function cylinder in / out. Release the switch it diverts back to normal function..

Thanks
-Craig

keyman1808 · Oct 22, 2009

I know that WR LOng makes a kit. Both a diverter and Electric over Hydraulic. I would give them a call. I'm waiting on the later one right now.

kennyd · Oct 22, 2009

Craig, click the red triangle under your username and ask a Moderator to move this to the hydraulics forum...

Now-to your questions:

The basic diverter that most use is THIS one from the Surplus Center. It does NOT come as a kit so the switch, fitting hoses and brackets need to be sourced separately. If you want a "kit", then the WR long setup is what you want to but, or get your dealer to order a Fasse diverter kit.

The diverter does go on the dump/curl circuit and work as you described.

As for searching...use these terms:
diverter
WR Long
Fasse

Here are some links for you:
My Diverter thread
Brad's Diverter thread
Jason's Diverter thread

jd2305cd · Oct 23, 2009

Thanks Kenny.. Exactly what I was looking for..

DonT-B7500 · Oct 25, 2009

JD, here's a link to my Grapple install using a Fause valve as my 3rd function, if you need any more info on the install let me know
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/108624-ordered-millonzi-48-grapple-my.html

MossRoad · Oct 28, 2009

Moved to the hydraulics forum at the original poster's request.

jd2305cd · Oct 28, 2009

Thanks for moving...

So i am going to order just he valve, do the wiring and conectors myself. Can some one tell me what / show me what are the correct ports to go into the valve? Then what two ports will go out to the FEL and what two will go to the 3rd function.

Might be getting ahead of myself, probably a nice diagram comes with the diverter.

Next question is, do i need to have an inline fuse and what size wire should i run for power. I know you put a relay in on yours kenny right, but that was just for a future addition.

Thanks
--Craig

kennyd · Oct 28, 2009

jd2305cd said:
Thanks for moving...

So i am going to order just he valve, do the wiring and conectors myself. Can some one tell me what / show me what are the correct ports to go into the valve? Then what two ports will go out to the FEL and what two will go to the 3rd function.

Might be getting ahead of myself, probably a nice diagram comes with the diverter.

Next question is, do i need to have an inline fuse and what size wire should i run for power. I know you put a relay in on yours kenny right, but that was just for a future addition.

Thanks
--Craig

I would buy the 9-5117A diverter, but if you look at the 9-5117 one there is tabs that has the drawing and instructions-they are the same.

I did use a relay because of the handle I put on my joystick-the little membrane switches are not rated for much current. So whether you need it or not depends on what switch you use. The diverter should only draw about 1-2 amps or so...so #14 or #16 wire is fine. ALWAYS use fuses!

jd2305cd · Oct 28, 2009

Awesome..

Next question, did you hard pipe your hydraulic lines, or use quick connects? or a mix..

Thinking of ordering them with the diverter if price resonable.

Thanks agian

kennyd · Oct 28, 2009

Mine is all done with QD's...look at the pictures in the link above-I think it shows them?

mussaa · Oct 29, 2009

I accept with information: The basic diverter that most use is THIS one from the Surplus Center. It does NOT come as a kit so the switch, fitting hoses and brackets need to be sourced separately.

jd2305cd · Oct 29, 2009

Right...

The full kit ranges from 319 - 600 depending on where you buy it and what joystick or button it comes with.

jd2305cd · Nov 17, 2009

Hey Kenny, got another question on the wiring..

Just got the Diverter in yesterday, so i can start making the brackets / mounts. My question is on the wiring..

Each solenoid has two connections on it. One for ground one for power correct? ( i don't think it matters which is which right?)

NOTE - I AM A WIRING DUMMY...

So think think i always want the dump/curl side on, then when i hold the momentary switch turn that side off and put power to the 3rd function.

Advice? Wiring link - https://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117.pdf

Thanks
--Craig

jd2305cd · Nov 17, 2009

I guess i am confused soley on the two pole momentary switch that i will be using. If i was putting in a three way switch i would just toggle to one or the other.

Does that make sense?

J_J · Nov 17, 2009

What you need is a toggle switch. The up position might be for the grapple, and the down position might be the curl function. Tie the ground wires together and connect to ground,

jd2305cd · Nov 17, 2009

I was hoping to not use a toggle switch.. Rather have the Curl/dump always active... Then the 3rd function be activated when needed.

J_J · Nov 17, 2009

In one position, the curl function will be active until you flip the switch to grapple, and you don't have to touch the switch again until you need curl.

When you want to use grapple, flip the switch to grapple position, and that lets you work with the grapple without touching the switch every time. You could do momentary on one side of a switch. Momentary up for grapple, and down lock for curl.

Switches available

on-on------------------------This is the sequence you need. Two position switch.
on-off-on
on-off-momentary
momentary-off-momentary.

kennyd · Nov 17, 2009

jd2305cd said:
Hey Kenny, got another question on the wiring..

Just got the Diverter in yesterday, so i can start making the brackets / mounts. My question is on the wiring..

Each solenoid has two connections on it. One for ground one for power correct? ( i don't think it matters which is which right?)

NOTE - I AM A WIRING DUMMY...

So think think i always want the dump/curl side on, then when i hold the momentary switch turn that side off and put power to the 3rd function.

Advice? Wiring link - https://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117.pdf

Thanks
--Craig

Please confirm which valve you have the 5117 or the 5117A?

The "A" valve does NOT need power at all for the curl to work, both solenoids are powered for the Grapple to work. The non-"A" valve is different.

And, it does not matter which lug you put power to...

jd2305cd · Nov 17, 2009

Funny question Kenny!! When I went to order this I remember you saying one was better than the other, so I went back to the first page. Then Re-read your post on which one to buy and clicked the link you had posted for the A model. Then just purchase the one the link sent me to.

After just re-reviewing my order, the links you had posted both go to the non-A version. No big deal, looks like i bought the regular one, not the A version..

Might want to edit your post if you can so in case some else clicks it they get the recommend one.

I have the 5117 model..

Thanks
--Craig

J_J · Nov 17, 2009

jd2305cd, has already posted a diagram of the 9-5117. It says to select one of the valves first, or the FEL will go into relief. as both valves are closed until voltage is applied to one valve at a time. Valve 9-5117a does a flip flop on the valves to switch between the grapple and the curl.

Just wire the solenoids as in the wiring link.

That 9-5117A valve is out of stock. That is the one the other guy is having trouble with.

Use a switch that is on -up, or on, down.. No center position. 12 v goes to the center terminal of the switch. This way, you will always be in curl or grapple. Wire the solenoid switch so it has voltage with tractor running. You might put a 2 amp CB/fuse in the circuit.