How many "TnT" owners

[3RRL]

It's usually the valve, not the cylinder that has a slight leak down problem.
At least in my case, from my experience about the DPOCV's, that's where they made a difference. The DPOCV's rely on the cylinder being good, or else fluid could leak past the seals ("O"rings) and the rod could still move in the cylinder housing. I have them on almost all cylinders that need to hold their position, and on one, even with the DPOCV, it still leaks down. That is, on one stabilizer leg of my Nardi Backhoe. The other one is rock solid. So for you guys with good cylinders AND good valves, there may not be a need for them?
These are photos of the DPOCV's on the backhoe stabilizer legs:



I also put them on Loretta's tractor when it was set up for top n' tilt with 2 hydraulic side links, just like mine.
Except she has a (better than mine) Price Stack valve (4 spool) so the valve and cylinders are good. With them being "hard plumbed" on the cylinders, in case a hose ruptures or gets torn off, the cylinder with DPOCV will retain it's position instead of crashing down. Although not as critical in the TNT use as in other uses, it doubles as somewhat of a safety feature.

Here are some photos of her set up with her landscape rake on.
You can see the Jinma has quite a range of tilt with 2 hydraulic side links. Grading the road or other areas are real easy with minor adjustments to the rake or blade while driving along.

 

[jenkinsph]

Good pics thanks.


The wide range of tilt to both sides is what I am working towards.

About the leak down issues, I think alot of the problem is a combination of cheap cylinders and cheap valves. Well made cylinders and valve bodies with highly polished bores, top quality packing and Enduro rod shafts cost more than the cheap stuff. High tolerance fit is a major issue in hydraulics and polishing makes the difference as to how long the equipment will last without starting to wear and then leak. When the fluid under high pressure is pressing the seal or packing against the rod or cylinder bore or valve body bore wear is increased if not perfectly smooth.

You can buy a cheaper item with the same dimensions, rod size and pressure rating (specifications seem similar) but how long it will last and whether it will leak down can vary greatly. Sometimes you can buy a cheap cylinder that works well with no problems but there are differences people should be aware of. Same thing is true of pumps, motors and valves.

 

[mjncad]

Rob:

Do you recall where you got those check valves? I have one on my Surplus Center/CCM top-link and I was able to track it down to an Italian manufacturing company; but the trail went ice cold when I tried to find a place to buy them in the USA.

If I ever get around to a sidelink, I'll have to get a cylinder and fabricate mounting ends for it. A check valve would be a nice finishing touch.

Thanks!

 

[AKfish]

AKfish,
I think my 47 blade is a little heavier than the 45 but not by much. At one time before I wen't back to college I had a 10' all hydraulic blade Cat 3 and a Case 1370 Agri King with duals that thing would cut a ditch.

Anyway I may have to move my blade over as you have done to get more reach, and if that is the case I would be just as well off with the tilt setup I have now. The more you tilt the blade the closer to center it gets, so you have less extention outboard.

This could all be resolved with a more elaborate rear blade but I come up short by one circuit as I have three rear outlets and I would need four outlets for top link, tilt, offset and blade angle.

Hey, hey... I used to run a Case 1470 that had the slickest power-shift tranny! Used it to feed and clean at a beef cattle feedlot. It was a kick hittin' that shifter and the black smoke just rollin'!!

There was a thread on the Kubota forum a year or so back and a fella on there had a power trim/tilt, cruise, etc. etc. rear-blade that would do everything with 4 hyd cylinders. If memory serves - I think he had a splitter on one of the circuits. But, it was an OEM feature from Kubota.. Very impressive.

AKfish

 

[firefighter9208]

OK. I have a question. I was planning on ordering a HTL today from C&C machinery. I have a Kubota M4800 and would use the cylinder with the bushhog and disk. My factory toplink is 21" to 32". Here's my problem: When I completely shorten my top link my disk is only about 6" off the ground. Same with the bushhog. The disk wants to drag and tear up everything when I'm transporting it. I would also like to quickly raise the bushhog when you get into a sticky situation to keep from getting stuck.

When looking at CCM's website I have basically two choices for the HTL: #1: 21"-32" or #2: 18"-26.5" . I know that with the top link 3" shorter I could raise the bushhog or disk higher to transport, but I would be loosing 5 1/2" off the total length.

What do I need to do??? What do you guys have for length???

Chris

 

[jenkinsph]

Hey, hey... I used to run a Case 1470 that had the slickest power-shift tranny! Used it to feed and clean at a beef cattle feedlot. It was a kick hittin' that shifter and the black smoke just rollin'!!

There was a thread on the Kubota forum a year or so back and a fella on there had a power trim/tilt, cruise, etc. etc. rear-blade that would do everything with 4 hyd cylinders. If memory serves - I think he had a splitter on one of the circuits. But, it was an OEM feature from Kubota.. Very impressive.

AKfish

Yeah, mine was a 12 sp powershift, nice tractor it had all the rear remotes too.

 

[jenkinsph]

firefighter,

What I would do is hook up the bushhog and adjust tailwheel ht to your cutting ht, remove top link and then lower the hitch arms to level the mower. I would then measure the distance between the top link pin holes to see which cylinder would work when set to mid stroke. This way you would have a range of adjustment to tilt up or tilt down. Not really an issue with the brushhog but should work the same for rear blade and box blade.

 

[3RRL]

Rob:

Do you recall where you got those check valves? I have one on my Surplus Center/CCM top-link and I was able to track it down to an Italian manufacturing company; but the trail went ice cold when I tried to find a place to buy them in the USA.

If I ever get around to a sidelink, I'll have to get a cylinder and fabricate mounting ends for it. A check valve would be a nice finishing touch.

Thanks!

Matt, indeed I do...
I got them from CCM, Mark to be specific.
He should have extra DPOCV's in stock. Be advised though, that they are Metric and you will have some issues getting them to fit your cylinder. I bought several of them from him but had to make up my own hard line connection between cylinder ports. I believe I have a couple threads on doing that (custom fitting to the cylinders). One was for the backhoe stabilizer legs and the other for Loretta's Jinma. You may need to read through them if you haven't already?
Rob-
Here is the Jinma thread:
New Mods to Loretta's 284 Jinma
Here is the one for my Backhoe stabilizer cylinders start at post #13:
Backhoe Feet

 

[mjncad]

Matt, indeed I do...
I got them from CCM, Mark to be specific.
He should have extra DPOCV's in stock. Be advised though, that they are Metric and you will have some issues getting them to fit your cylinder. I bought several of them from him but had to make up my own hard line connection between cylinder ports. I believe I have a couple threads on doing that (custom fitting to the cylinders). One was for the backhoe stabilizer legs and the other for Loretta's Jinma. You may need to read through them if you haven't already?
Rob-
Here is the Jinma thread:
New Mods to Loretta's 284 Jinma
Here is the one for my Backhoe stabilizer cylinders start at post #13:
Backhoe Feet

Thanks Rob! My Surplus Center top-link cylinder is the same one CCM sells, and the check valve uses BSPP ports. I can easily get BSPP to JIC fittings locally. I will keep CCM in mind should I get around to the side-link.

So many projects, so little time and MONEY!

 

[dcyrilc]

So many projects, so little time and MONEY!

Amen.
It's amazing how a few $5 here, $25 there, and a $50 thrown in can add up to a short paycheck! LOL