Canopy Roll cage & new steel roof for my DK40SE

[JonKioti]

You're not intending to completely cover that thing in armour plate, are you? Seem to recall some guy did that with a bulldozer once.

All you need now is a flyscreen.

Good job.

Jon

 

[MotorSeven]

Armour plate? Hmmmm......... if I can get "aholt" of some kevlar & ceramic panels I can at least make it bullet proof

I think all tractors should come standard with a belly pan. Any time I am doing any light grubbing I find sticks & branches jammed under & around all sorts of delicate stuff around the vunerable underbelly. I did destroy my radiator fan while backing up, jamming a sapling into it from the backside. I have knocked off hydro lines to the fel, unplugged electric connections and ripped of one of the engine side sheilds. All this was very easy to do and yes I was trying to be carefull, but it happens in the woods.

RD

 

[IslandTractor]

I think all tractors should come standard with a belly pan. Any time I am doing any light grubbing I find sticks & branches jammed under & around all sorts of delicate stuff around the vunerable underbelly. I did destroy my radiator fan while backing up, jamming a sapling into it from the backside. I have knocked off hydro lines to the fel, unplugged electric connections and ripped of one of the engine side sheilds. All this was very easy to do and yes I was trying to be carefull, but it happens in the woods.

Been there, done that. While I haven't damaged the radiator, I can add jamming a stick between the engine block and oil dipstick tube to bend it down so it dribbles oil out. That gave me a scare.

I keep meaning to make a project to develop some sort of armor plating for the underside of the tractor. Would be a nice way to add ballast generally with stabilizing weight down low too. I was thinking diamond plate would work well. Have to figure out where you'd need cut outs with removable plates to get at a few zerks and filters/oil plugs etc.

 

[MotorSeven]

I keep meaning to make a project to develop some sort of armor plating for the underside of the tractor. Would be a nice way to add ballast generally with stabilizing weight down low too. I was thinking diamond plate would work well. Have to figure out where you'd need cut outs with removable plates to get at a few zerks and filters/oil plugs etc.

Here is my plan: get a big section of cardboard & make a template of the belly pan cut out. Once it is fine tuned, I can take it to the place that cut & did the break on the roof edges and have them cut out what I know will be an odd shape out of 3/16ths sheet. They don't have diamond plate, but the flat sheet is cheaper. Once I get the steel back home I can weld attachment points & tabs where needed. I agree a few access holes will be in order. Once all welded up, off to the paint shop(front yard) for prime & paint.

RD

 

[IslandTractor]

Don't forget to photograph and measure the template or better yet the finished belly protector plate(s) and post them here before you install. That will save your lazy disorganized friends on TBN some time and work.:thumbsup:

 

[JonKioti]

I like your paint shop. How do you keep the dog out of it?

 

[MotorSeven]

I like your paint shop. How do you keep the dog out of it?

dogs, chickens, a cat & now 2 ducks................sheesh!


RD

 

[gladehound]

Been there, done that. While I haven't damaged the radiator, I can add jamming a stick between the engine block and oil dipstick tube to bend it down so it dribbles oil out. That gave me a scare.

I keep meaning to make a project to develop some sort of armor plating for the underside of the tractor. Would be a nice way to add ballast generally with stabilizing weight down low too. I was thinking diamond plate would work well. Have to figure out where you'd need cut outs with removable plates to get at a few zerks and filters/oil plugs etc.

You could do a belly pan, sub frame and balast all with one piece! A nice piece of 1 inch plate that connects the hitch in the rear to the tractor frame in the front would probably take care of all three. About 4 bolts at each end as far appart as possible should do the trick. Definitely want axess holes because that puppy will be heavy!

 

[gladehound]

I really need to do a belly pan. I'm in the woods all the time. Once got a sappling wrapped around the steering knuckle and stearing arm. I turned and however it was wrapped up in there didn't permit the tractor to turn. The steering cylinder prooved stronger than the stearing arm. Snap! Put 1000 pounds of wood on the carry all, used the loader as a skid and the rear breaks to steer and drove home. I was pleasantly surprised that the replacement piece was only $50.

The point is you can't have too much protection for you or your tractor when working in the woods. Stuff just happens. Strange stuff that you never expect.

 

[IslandTractor]

A nice piece of 1 inch plate

Maybe if I was in Iraq or Afghanistan. I'm thinking quarter inch would do fine in Rhode Island.

(Though I do work in kind of a war zone as the British did invade our little island back during the Revolutionary War and burned all the farms after the colonist's refused to sell them sheep)

 

[IslandTractor]

I really need to do a belly pan. .

I managed to disable my 4wd again this weekend while driving over brush. Same issue as last time which is a simple disconnection of vulnerable electrics under the operator station floor. Took only a couple seconds to fix now that I know where to check but it does point out again the need to put some brush guard armor under there.

 

[gladehound]

Ha! I think the most complicated electronic gizmo on my tractor is the headlight! : )

 

[MotorSeven]

1" plate??? good lord

:laughing:

 

[gladehound]

Hey, I need something to counter ballance the cage!

 

[MotorSeven]

Update:

I kept getting a serious rattle from 1600-2000 rpm from the front support tubes where they bolt to the loader arm brace. I drilled a hole, then welded a nut to make a "set screw". Once tightened up, it fixed 90% of the rattle...so now it only vibrates at 1900 rpm, so I just stay out of that "zone".

Oh, and my cheapy Pyle radio would not play MP3 format off of Media Player, so I bought another radio from WallyWorld for $70 & it works perfect. The Pyle will go into the pontoon boat where we just listen to FM. To be honest I think a $40 MP3 player & headset is probably the better route. While operating at high RPM's I can't hear the radio unless I wear earpulgs(which I do anyway), so an MP3 would block engine noise while delivering a much better quality music. It is nice to have the speakers when at idle/low rpm, or when parked working on something in the field.

 

[Coyote machine]

Why not get one of the headphone sets with an i-pod/MP3 plug built in? I have one with AM/FM radio AND an i-pod plug all in one with digital display. Worktunes or some similar name, AO Safety is mfg, I believe. Link below: note ACE is selling them for $40 and so is Sears. I probably spent closer to $60 when I got mine- $40 is a good price IMHO.
AO Safety 90541-80000 Noise Reducing Headphones with AM/FM Radio

 

[MotorSeven]

I thought about that CM, but when it's hovering around a hundered degrees those things will set my ears on fire.......:>o

I just got a set of "in the ear" plugs to use when riding my Motor, so for tractor work they would be fine too.

 

[ron45]

MotorSeven, I've been thinking along the same line. 250+ for 8 dollars worth of plastic doesn't seem like a good deal. Could you tell us what the diamond plate cost? .perhaps before and after the rollI. I was also thinking 72" for some shade on the backhoe driver

Ron