Snow Attachments Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project

[kennyd]

Well OK, but you have me curious now as I have a diverter on my Curl/Dump circuit... No plow - not at least for a couple years until the new place gets built. So how does regen affect the plow angle cylinders? Is this a situation where you need double acting cylinders to allow fluid flow on both sides of each cyl?

Did you search it?

Regen applies pressure to both sides of a DA cylinder, so when you have 2 SA cylinders both are trying to extend at the same time. Kubota puts this on the first part of the joystick throw-so you have to push the joystick far to the right to get past the regen feature in the valve.

 

[Briarcreek]

I went looking through my hard drive and came up with these.

4shorts - I'm also looking into a DIY loader blade application. I enjoyed your fabrication pictures, especially your approach to reducing the overall depth of the assembly off of the loader plate.

1) What is the dimension from the loader plate to cutting edge of the bucket?

2) Did this start life as a 7'6" Western blade and frame?

3) How rigid is this setup, does it allow for much blade oscillation for uneven paved surfaces? My application is for a paved farm lane with rolling diagonal dips to shed stormwater.

i see some OEM plows for tractors and skidsteer applications design this freedom of movement into their product to account for the lack of suspension on the vehicle. Any thoughts on your setup?

4) Having the cylinders so close to the ground is one drawback to the short overall depth design. The extra skid shoes are a great idea. Any thoughts to a skid plate under the cylinders for further protection?

5) No provisions for a crossover relief valve?

6) Not that you will ever need to but ....what you do differently if you had to make another?

 

[Kubota Tee]

As I am waiting for the new pivot sleeves to arrive, I decided to cleanup the old cylinders and give them a new paint job!:confused2:

I sanded them down to bare metal and then applied a rust converter for the areas that were pitted. A couple of coats of primer, some sanding and then a couple of coats of Kubota ROPS Gray paint from a rattle can. I figured if I am going to keep them, I might as well get them looking decent.

The rest of the unit (moldboard, A-Frame and Sector) will be done in Kubota Orange. The goal is to make it look as close as possible that it came right from the Kubota factory!!:thumbsup: We'll see how close I come in the end!

Pictures show the contrast between before and after.

 

[4shorts]

As I am waiting for the new pivot sleeves to arrive, I decided to cleanup the old cylinders and give them a new paint job!:confused2:

I sanded them down to bare metal and then applied a rust converter for the areas that were pitted. A couple of coats of primer, some sanding and then a couple of coats of Kubota ROPS Gray paint from a rattle can. I figured if I am going to keep them, I might as well get them looking decent.

The rest of the unit (moldboard, A-Frame and Sector) will be done in Kubota Orange. The goal is to make it look as close as possible that it came right from the Kubota factory!!:thumbsup: We'll see how close I come in the end!

Pictures show the contrast between before and after.

Look'en good Thomas. Very nice indeed :thumbsup:

4shorts - I'm also looking into a DIY loader blade application. I enjoyed your fabrication pictures, especially your approach to reducing the overall depth of the assembly off of the loader plate.

Thank you. I'll try and answer your questions below:

1) What is the dimension from the loader plate to cutting edge of the bucket?

22 inches

2) Did this start life as a 7'6" Western blade and frame?

Nope. It started life back in 1993 as a 7'6" Arctic poly snow plow. I purchased it new and used it on my pick up until I adapted it to the kubota.

3) How rigid is this setup, does it allow for much blade oscillation for uneven paved surfaces? My application is for a paved farm lane with rolling diagonal dips to shed stormwater.

I've plowed with it commercially for two winter seasons now and it's never had an issue. Yes It's rigid, If it wasn't I would have changed the design. As for the oscillation for uneven paved surfaces. You asked a very good question and a very important one at that.
When I did this fabrication I took that into consideration and how I got around that was to actually make the center pivot point looser than normal to allow for an uneven surface. If you don't do that there will be times the blade will one cleaning have the blade due to the uneven surface. With my blade raised off the ground there is about a three inch bit of play when you grab on to the blade on one side and that's the secret to having the blade stay level on the ground even if the ground is uneven. If the center pin is to tight you will not be happy with the cleaning results of the blade. See attached photo.

i see some OEM plows for tractors and skidsteer applications design this freedom of movement into their product to account for the lack of suspension on the vehicle. Any thoughts on your setup?

Answered above.

4) Having the cylinders so close to the ground is one drawback to the short overall depth design. The extra skid shoes are a great idea. Any thoughts to a skid plate under the cylinders for further protection?

There would be nothing wrong with putting the skids under the cylinders. I chose to put them on my in the location that I did so the rear of the "A"frame would dig in to the ground if I weren't paying attention. I've never had an issue with them being close to the ground. The blade will clean the path first so if there's any obstacle in the way the cutting edge will hit it first. If I thought a skid pan would have been beneficial I would have installed one but I've never had a reason to need it.A skid pan could cause more trouble if it was there in my opinion. It could cause snow or ice to build up on the pan and possible jam the system. The way I have it now allows the cylinders to clean themselves each time I lift the FEL.

5) No provisions for a crossover relief valve?

Nope. In 20 years plowing I've never bent a cylinder and two years this has been on the tractor I've never had an issue.

6) Not that you will ever need to but ....what you do differently if you had to make another?
I would do a carbon copy of this system. I wouldn't change a thing. In my mind and considering my needs I feel I've hit a home run. It's efficient, reliable and compact. As a matter of fact most people that see it thinks It came with the machine. In the last two years I've got no less than 9 calls from all over Canada and the US asking me about it. Just the other day I received an email from a guy in the US who had just completed a build that I helped him with and he's design was very close to mine. That's what he wanted and he did a nice job I might add. Thanks for your post. Really good questions :thumbsup:

 

[Kubota Tee]

As expected, I received my new hardware package today.

I ordered:

angle cylinder hardware (qty = 4)
king pin (qty = 1) - 4SHORTS, thanks for the tip on keep it a little loose!
pivot sleeves (qty = 2)
pivot pins with grease fittings (qty = 2)
trip spring t-bolts (qty = 3)

Tomorrow morning I will take the pivot sleeves to my friends shop to get them welded in place. Then off to the sand blaster!

 

[Briarcreek]

Thanks for the detailed answers to my questions.

Today a shinny L3940 was finally delivered ......before our first snowfall! Thanks Neil.

I also pulled the trigger on an Ebay plow that should make a easier starting point than some of the other DIYers have had here. It's a manual angled Myers in great refurbished condition. I decided to go with a 6' width for storage constraint issues and will try to customize a pair or retractable/removable wings at some point in the future.


1) 4shorts

a) From a structure standpoint what is the cross section of the rectangular horizontal beams welded across your loader plate? Are the structural channel or formed sheet stock?

b) My final plow dimensions should be very close to yours and the 3rd function ports on the my LA724 loader are in the same location as yours. What was your final hose length, coupler type and size?


2) Can anyone direct me in the dimension details converting a Myers to a hydraulic angle?

a) Per other posters I'm looking at the Baileynet.com cylinder deals and assuming 10" stroke with 5/8" or 3/4" mounting pins....or can I get away with the throw of an 8" cylinder? Does size of the hardware matter.....perhaps for shear protection?

b) Before I start fabing brackets - Does anyone know a source for cylinder attachment brackets that can be welded on to convert my manual angle frame to a hydraulic angle?

c) Locating dimensions for the cylinder attachment brackets.


d) Source for skid shoes?

Thanks again

 

[jgrreed]

Can any of you with a FEL mounted blade tell me how careful I need to be to prevent torquing my loader arms with my blade on??

Thanks,

-Jer.

 

[nybirdman]

Number one.make sure your trip springs are in working order.I have plowed for two years with and 8ft.Curtis FEL mounted with no problems.Tripped the springs a couple times.I don't plow real fast anyway,but plow about a total of two miles,driveways and woods road.You learn fast where the problem areas are.I leave my skids on all winter;I run a rear blade at the same time to do final cleanup on the drives.

 

[Kubota Tee]

Number one.make sure your trip springs are in working order.

NYBIRDMAN,

I couldn't agree more! The blade has to be able to trip and that is why I am taking the extra time to put in new pivot sleeves and upgrade to the pivot pins with grease fittings. The other factor that you mentioned (skid shoes) is also important for overall safety of the equipment and driver.

 

[Kubota Tee]

Thanks for the detailed answers to my questions.

Today a shinny L3940 was finally delivered ......before our first snowfall! Thanks Neil.


d) Source for skid shoes?

BRIARCREEK,

Congrats on the new Bota! Did you get the HST version?

As far as skid shoes go, I have been looking for an extra pair as well. I will use 1 pair on the blade and then add a 2nd pair under the A-frame. The best source I have found is my local Tractor Supply. The round ones are $20, the shoe shaped ones are $30. I am planning on using the round ones - less to get hung up on!

Good luck with the snow plow mods!

 

[Kubota Tee]

c) Locating dimensions for the cylinder attachment brackets.

BRIARCREEK,

I took the following pic for you to show the A-Frame next to a tape measure. Looks like the cylinder attachment brackets are 26" back from the king pin hole.

Hope this helps.

 

[jgrreed]

Number one.make sure your trip springs are in working order.I have plowed for two years with and 8ft.Curtis FEL mounted with no problems.Tripped the springs a couple times.I don't plow real fast anyway,but plow about a total of two miles,driveways and woods road.You learn fast where the problem areas are.I leave my skids on all winter;I run a rear blade at the same time to do final cleanup on the drives.

K. Thanks. I'll watch out for those things.

I'm not real worried about the fresh, fluffy stuff, more the old windrows and piles that concern me.

Thanks,

-Jeremy.

 

[tommaple]

Glad you got the plug out of the cylinder but I hope heating it did not damaged any of the seals.

Chris

There are no seals at that end of the angling cylinder. The only seals are up at the packing nut. The piston just has a steel guide bushing on the end, no rubber parts.

 

[tommaple]

2) Can anyone direct me in the dimension details converting a Myers to a hydraulic angle?

a) Per other posters I'm looking at the Baileynet.com cylinder deals and assuming 10" stroke with 5/8" or 3/4" mounting pins....or can I get away with the throw of an 8" cylinder? Does size of the hardware matter.....perhaps for shear protection?
If you are trying to duplicate the Meyer configuration you will want the 1 1/2" x 10" cylinder. It will allow full right and left angle where an 8" stroke will stop the moldboard short. The Meyer brackets are designed for 5/8" bolts, so get the same in the cylinders. they are not for shear protection, I've never seen one broken. The crossover provides protection for the plow and mounting hardware if something is hit with the forward edge of the snowplow while angled.

b) Before I start fabing brackets - Does anyone know a source for cylinder attachment brackets that can be welded on to convert my manual angle frame to a hydraulic angle?
[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"[COLOR="Cyan"]]The brackets are available from a Meyer distributor. In addition to the brackets for the A-frame, you will need brackets for the sector. Call the main factory to get the part numbers if your local dealer doesn't have them. 216-486-1313 [/COLOR] [/COLOR]

c) Locating dimensions for the cylinder attachment brackets.

I would try to get dimensions from a current owner of a Meyer plow. Be sure they have an ST series plow with the 11" sector. ST-78, ST-84, ST-90 all use the same sector. (TM plows use a pivot bar, and C-8, C-8.5 plows use a 15" sector.) Your plow is an old ST series, probably 35 years old. It looks good though, obviously not kept outdoors all these years.

If you need to wing it on your own as far as mounting the cylinder brackets, here is what to do.
1) Weld the sector brackets first.
2) Assemble the sector to the A-frame.
3) Push both cylinders in half way.
4) Attach the piston to the sector bracket, the fitting end of the cylinder will now fall at the point where you can locate the A-frame brackets.
5) Weld them in place.




d) Source for skid shoes?

They are also available from a dealer. However you can probably do better on Ebay or Craig's List.

Thanks again

Good luck.
Tom

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have plowed with mine for a few season commercially in my area. Not much work, about 50 hours per season. I check out the areas I am going to plow before it snowed so I know where the obstacles are and do not go real fast except on the 2 miles of road then a max of maybe 7-8mph. The drive way work is slow. I have had no issues with my loader arms.

As for Skid Shoes I like the Western Shoes versus the Meyer Shoes. I have a Meyer plow and the Meyer Shoes just did not work for me. I made some shim tubes to allow me to use Western Shoes and its much better now.

Chris

 

[Briarcreek]

Short answer is NO, there is no x-over relief in the valve.

Big deal to me, but like everything else 'round here it's up for debate. I say you can't go wrong for the $70 or it'll cost to add one.

Kennyd

Do you have a source for a $70 Crossover? Sounds like cheap insurance I would like to invest in.

 

[Briarcreek]

BRIARCREEK,

I took the following pic for you to show the A-Frame next to a tape measure. Looks like the cylinder attachment brackets are 26" back from the king pin hole.

Hope this helps.

Kubota Tee


Thanks for the dimensions on your A-Frame. I found Meyers mounting brackets online and hope to get them by Monday.

Yes my L3940 is a HST and dominates the garage....looking forward to putting the 1st hour on the meter this weekend.



Tommaple

I will also use your cylinder placement for dummies approach......KISS

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd

Do you have a source for a $70 Crossover? Sounds like cheap insurance I would like to invest in.

Sure do, the Surplus Center: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4019-50-H&catname=hydraulic

 

[Kubota Tee]

Today's Progress on the Meyer Plow Conversion:

Spent the day at my friend's shop today - slow day for him, so he was happy to have the company and we made some good progress.

Sector: Cut out the old pivot tubes (what was left of them), cleaned up the angle iron and then welding in the new ones. Had to then weld back in the "cover" which is also used as a stop for the moldboard. It turned out great! Ready for sandblasting and paint!

A-Frame: Shortened up the A-Frame cutting off the truck mount tabs. We also cut off the handles as they would get in the way of the lower FEL cross tube. Added a new rear cross member where the cutoffs were made and drilled them out to support the additional skid shoes. My friend wasn't happy with just have cutouts, so he found some tube stock and welded in tubes for the skid shoes to fit into. I'm sure this will be a much stronger solution.

QA Plate: We didn't get to the QA plate, but we did come up with a strategy for mounting everything! More to come on Monday.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. I will snap some more pics on Monday and get them posted.

 

[tommaple]

Today's Progress on the Meyer Plow Conversion:

" We also cut off the handles as they would get in the way of the lower FEL cross tube."

Just as a matter of information. The "handles" are actually hose/fitting guards. The hoses are routed from the cylinders through the guards up to the power pack on the lift frame. The guards would hit the bottom of the lift frame, in some cases the bumper, limiting the lift height of the A-frame. Without the guards, fittings would easily be broken.
Tom