My thought about access from the inside included opening it up all the way to the slate - but it sounds like it's a non-starter.
I'm thinking the air mattress (partially inflated) just might be the way to go. Inflate 3 of them about 1/2way - just barely enough to hold shape, maybe even less. Duct tape them in a line. Get them up on the roof. You can then slide the 2nd ladder (I'm assuming the first leans on the gutter) up the mattresses - slowly adding load, and the vinyl provides a sliding surface. You'll need an anchor at the top (remember, the vinyl's slippery) but your weight will be distributed across ALL the slate, not just the individual high points.
It's the sliding effect that makes me think this will work better than foam attached to the ladder. If you attach the mattresses to the ladder first, it may slide - or it may get hung up.
Can you anchor off that top structure? The harness is a no-brainer. At the very least, toss a line over the ridge if you can't tie off to the upper structure. If you fall and the line comes taught, you'll break slate at the ridgeline - and live.