How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[s219]

I am curious to know how various people do this -- I am looking into hauling a CUT on a 76"x14' landscape trailer (tandem axle with wood decking and rear gate). This trailer looks ideal for me, but doesn't have tiedowns, and of course with a wood deck there are no chain slots.

I know landscapers around here don't even tie their equipment down for local transport -- they drive on and set the brake.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

Use grade 1/2" Grade 70 Transport Chain - yes overkill at Working load limit 11,300 lbs, but safety first.

Use 1/2" - 5/8" Ratchet Chain Binders they seem to make things tighter.

Lastly if you want Block the tires.

 

[mjncad]

How big is your CUT as 14' seems kind of short to me to balance the load properly.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

A 14' landscape trailer may not have axles (ie 3,500 lb) and frame rated for carrying a CUT unless it is a small one.

 

[jeffsw6]

Be careful about the gate also. You don't want to damage it!

 

[JB4310]

I know landscapers around here don't even tie their equipment down for local transport -- they drive on and set the brake.

That's really foolish, to say the least.

Does your trailer have stake pockets at least? 14 foot is small, you will only fit the tractor, no implements.

If there are no stake pockets or other means to attach tie downs. you would have to get some D-rings welded on, that's if the tractor fits and the trailer is rated high enough for the load.

JB

 

[s219]

The tractor is a Kubota B2920. It measures out at 12'6" or so with the front loader and empty three-point. The trailer has tandem axles, each 3500lb.

By my estimates, the 14' trailer bed and its axle locations should give me a couple feet of leeway to get the tractor centered for proper balance. A 12' trailer might be doable but the FEL may have to overhang the front of the trailer a bit, and that sounds like a hassle.

I can step up to a 16' trailer for very little extra money, so that's an option too. Then I could keep a rear blade attached to the three-point if needed while transporting. However, the smaller I can go with the trailer, the easier it will be to stash in my yard.

By the way, the rear gate on this trailer has 2" square tubing spaced on 12" centers. It's significantly better than many of the rear gates I have been seeing. Most are just angle iron spaced about 16-20".

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get the 16' minimum. 14' trailers are a tough resale if the day ever comes. 16' opens up a whole lot of new things you can haul like cars, ect.

Just realize a gate will kill the mpg's you get. They work great for a landscaper doing local stuff a mile or two. Any long hauls at speed its terrible. Slide in ramps are a much better solution. The gate also prevents you from hauling anything longer than the trailer which I do all the time. Just yesterday got some 20' lumber on my non gated 18' trailer. No way I will have a gated trailer again.

As for tie downs. If you have none you can have some welded on at a shop or do it yourself.

As for the chians you need 5/16" grade 70 chains. 4 are needed for that load. One off each corner in a X factor. I use 4 10' pieces and two boomers on the rear. What I do is pull the tractor on, hook the two front chains on, release the tractors brakes, allow it to roll back, hook up the rear 2 chains and boom it down. I then put a heavy strap over the implement and FEL bucket.

Chris

 

[lostcause]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

Use grade 1/2" Grade 70 Transport Chain - yes overkill at Working load limit 11,300 lbs, but safety first.

Use 1/2" - 5/8" Ratchet Chain Binders they seem to make things tighter.

Lastly if you want Block the tires.

you were kidding weren't you? any compact that can fit on a 14' trailer is going to be pretty light. i use two 5/16" grade 70 to tie mine down with the loader and backhoe. four 1/2" chains would seem ridiculous. good 2"x1/4" nylon ratchet straps would be plenty adequate too.

i think that the actual model he listed later would be no more than 2500lb with the loader and fluids. kubota lists the tractor at 1550lb - i had to check multiple places, because that just seems ridiculously light. my 24hp jd770 lists 2100lb, and i can't imagine how a similar sized one can be 550lb lighter.

 

[s219]

I have done some research on the weights. The dry tractor is 1554#, the FEL adds 459#, and then loaded tires are in the 600# range. So we're talking about 2600# for the tractor. If I transport a box blade, it would add another 350-400# depending on size/construction (and if it was on the 3-pt, overall length increases to 15'2"). With fuel/fluids, I think we're looking at 3100-3300# all said and done.

For the money, looks like the 16' trailer is a no brainer. I can get one new for $2295, though I will certainly shop around for used first. The problem is, many of the used trailers I have looked at in the past need new tires or wiring repairs, and it would take some time/money to bring them back up to dependable condition. For a turnkey solution, I am leaning towards new.

This is where it gets out of hand though -- my current vehicle, which is paid off, has only 50K miles, and something I am happy with, has too low of a towing capacity for everything. So now I get into needing a bigger tow vehicle. This is a good time of year to buy an F-150 in terms of discounts and tax purposes, but of course I will look around for used options as well.

Anyhow, a $16K tractor purchase is blossoming into a $40K life changing event.

 

[jonyyuma]

Yes, and so the farming game goes...But you might want the camping trailer later..So..

 

[AGGIE00]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

Use grade 1/2" Grade 70 Transport Chain - yes overkill at Working load limit 11,300 lbs, but safety first.

Use 1/2" - 5/8" Ratchet Chain Binders they seem to make things tighter.

Lastly if you want Block the tires.

Do you know how much 1/2" chain weighs and costs? I used 4-3/8" chains to boom down 60,000# excavators.

 

[RobertN]

Probably mis-type on the chain size. Making the "X" front and rear, with chain and binder is a good idea, even if it is not required for under 10,000lb weight.

I use two chains, but they are 20', and I can still make a "X". If one corner gets loose, the other three corners still hold.

I started with ratchet straps. They just got knicked up to easily, especially around all the angular edge on a tractor. I only use them for lumber or hay now.

you were kidding weren't you? any compact that can fit on a 14' trailer is going to be pretty light. i use two 5/16" grade 70 to tie mine down with the loader and backhoe. four 1/2" chains would seem ridiculous. good 2"x1/4" nylon ratchet straps would be plenty adequate too.

i think that the actual model he listed later would be no more than 2500lb with the loader and fluids. kubota lists the tractor at 1550lb - i had to check multiple places, because that just seems ridiculously light. my 24hp jd770 lists 2100lb, and i can't imagine how a similar sized one can be 550lb lighter.

 

[Sutol]

Towed this back home for at 60mph for 140 miles and it didn't move on the trailer.
Strapped the front wheels to each side and pulled the rears to the lashing points at the rear

I always strap the wheels to the trailer then it aint going anywhere, if you pull it to the front with the strap and then pull it to the rear with straps its good and you can always stop after a mile or three and pull them up a click

Best vehicle I ever had on the trailer was a two and a half ton AA van. For those of you who do not know, the AA is Britains premier vehicle rescue service

 

[George2615]

I am curious to know how various people do this -- I am looking into hauling a CUT on a 76"x14' landscape trailer (tandem axle with wood decking and rear gate). This trailer looks ideal for me, but doesn't have tiedowns, and of course with a wood deck there are no chain slots.

I know landscapers around here don't even tie their equipment down for local transport -- they drive on and set the brake.

Don't know what state you are in but here, if its on a trailer it has to be secured. If not its ticket time. I see a lot of zero turn mowers not secured on trailers. They are taking a big risk.
To be extra safe use 4 5/16" chains (or straps) even though only 2 are required under 10K. Some people cross the chains others don't. Either way is OK. Chains or straps can connect to the stake pockets. If you don't have pockets you need to add some D-rings to secure the load.

 

[Diamondpilot]

This is where it gets out of hand though -- my current vehicle, which is paid off, has only 50K miles, and something I am happy with, has too low of a towing capacity for everything. So now I get into needing a bigger tow vehicle. This is a good time of year to buy an F-150 in terms of discounts and tax purposes, but of course I will look around for used options as well.

Anyhow, a $16K tractor purchase is blossoming into a $40K life changing event.

Thats the way it works. But hey, you are making money. Not!!!!

Chris

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Anyhow, a $16K tractor purchase is blossoming into a $40K life changing event.

I see you are beginning to understand.

As for the trailer purchase, I'd recommend you get the 16' trailer. I have a tractor even smaller than yours. Mine is a Massey Ferguson MF 1215. It's 2500 lbs. soaking wet with a loader, implement and a full tank of fuel. I ended up with a 16' tilt trailer with two 3500 lb. axles. I'm even considering adding a 2' fixed section to the front of the trailer to help distribute the load. I had a 14' trailer for a while, but it just didn't give me enough room to position the load, especially when I had my bush hog mower on the back.

The 16' is worth it.

As for the truck purchase, you don't have to get it now. If you're looking for an excuse to trade up go for it, but you can safely pull a heavy rated trailer with a lighter load. Get the heavier trailer so you'll have it when you eventually trade in your truck.

A 16 foot trailer will probably be about 1500 to 2000 pounds. Add your tractor and your load will probably stay right around 5K. What's your current truck rated for?

 

[s219]

Thats the way it works. But hey, you are making money. Not!!!!

Chris

In my head, I figure on saving a good chunk of money doing construction on our new land by having my own small tractor. Probably $2-4K up front when I put in the driveway entrance and culvert myself. Then $10-15K when I do part of the clearing and site work, and $10-15K at the end when we do the grading and landscaping ourselves.

I can definitely cover the costs of the tractor and trailer with the savings, and my wife even agrees with me there. It's that new tow vehicle that is going to be the problem. I can get a good deal on an F-150 and depreciate it with tax deductions through my business, but there will still be at least a $25K outlay to buy the truck when all is said and done. That's a tougher one to swallow.

 

[s219]

A 16 foot trailer will probably be about 1500 to 2000 pounds. Add your tractor and your load will probably stay right around 5K. What's your current truck rated for?

My current SUV (Acura RDX) is rated for a pathetic 1500# towing. That even surprised me when I checked, because I have been hauling 2000-2200# (gross, including trailer) loads of gravel thinking it was OK. I was basically just staying within the limits of my existing trailer and not even realizing that the vehicle had such a low rating.

After asking around, I understand that the vehicle is very conservatively rated, and I was probably fine with the loads of gravel. But even if I get a trailer with brakes, there is no way I will be able to haul a tractor -- not even close. So it's just not a good vehicle for what I need to do. The problem is, it's paid for, has low miles, and I like it otherwise. Not an ideal situation to think about moving into a bigger truck.

 

[dkhntr04]

How often/far do you plan on towing? I you won't be doing much, why not buy an older 3/4 or 1 ton pickup for towing? There are plenty to be had in the $5k and less which would suit you just fine if you are only towing several thousand miles a year or less. A lot cheaper than buying something new that you don't need most of the time just to haul on occasion.