Any GradeMaster owners here?

[beppington]

I made this drawing to simulate what I think should happen after 4 passes using a grader with its blade(s) fixed at 4 degrees, assuming zero slop, play or material flowing over the blade & back to about where it originally was. Meaning, I think it would take more passes to end up with this result, but without adjusting your 3 point hitch, I don't see how it wouldn't eventually end up like this. I also think that even an adjustable blade set level would end up this same way if you set your 3 point hitch to crown & graded without ever re-adjusting the 3 point hitch to lessen the crown angle. Correct me as needed - I like to learn.

 

[MotorSeven]

Bep, I understand what you are saying and have my doubts too that it won't increase crown over time, but I am willing to give it a try. I will drag it without putting any pressure on it with the T&T & I promise to post the results back here on this thread. Grademaster ships on Monday, so I should see it by the end of the week.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Bep's idea has me very curious. If we weren't all covered with ice and snow I would go out and try an experiment.

Motor, Contrats on your purchase. I doubt you will be sorry. I am glad you will post your results, Thankyou.

I am not at all sure but I predict that as you grade material will migrate from the ditch side with the deep cut and lots of loose material towards the crown with the shallow cut and less loose material. As this migration continues you will finally get an even layer of loose gravel across the entire cut and the migration will stop because the blade will have to pass the same amount of loose material all along its entire length. Just a guess.

 

[Jaylegger]

It's been my experience that the material migrates down the blade much better if the grader blades are set up so the gravel passes under the blade on the high side instead of over. As has been mentioned there is little migration of gravel down the blade after they load up with gravel. This setup can be achieved via side-link adjustment or blade adjustment, side-link the quicker way to go if a multitude of adjustments are required to complete the job. Adjusting the blades requires heading back to the shop to completely clean off the grader prior to making any changes.

 

[xtn]

Bep... If the material just rides up and over the blades, I don't see how cutting deeper on one side will make the material move over towards the other side. I think you've got to angle the blades laterally to do that. No personal experience with one of these units though, so I could be talking out my....

 

[beppington]

Bep... If the material just rides up and over the blades, I don't see how cutting deeper on one side will make the material move over towards the other side. I think you've got to angle the blades laterally to do that. No personal experience with one of these units though, so I could be talking out my....

My blades are angled :thumbsup:

 

[MotorSeven]

FedX delivered today:

 

[MotorSeven]

I hooked it up and found that my hyd top link was a bit too short to let the grader down flat:

So I had to do a little fab-ing:

And then some grading:

 

[MotorSeven]

Action shot:

There is a bit of a learning curve. It has to be adjusted just right before it performs right, no too much tilt sideways or forward. Once dialed in it does a great job and after two passes it looks like I had new gravel delivered. So far so good......

 

[MotorSeven]

Here you can see the difference in blade height from left:

to right:

 

[beppington]

Lookin' good :thumbsup: ... although it doesn't look like the blade is higher on one side than the other - The space between the top of the blade & the top edge of the member it's mounted on looks to be pretty much the same left & right:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Lookin' good :thumbsup: ... although it doesn't look like the blade is higher on one side than the other - The space between the top of the blade & the top edge of the member it's mounted on looks to be pretty much the same left & right:

View attachment 250891

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[MotorSeven]

It is hard to tell in the picture but there is about a half inch difference. The pic of it full of gravel shows how much migrates to the left or center of the roadway.

I will say this, a 7'er is really almost too big for small one lane driveways because on the return pass it puts the crown way off center. I think a 6'er would have been a better choice, but then again maybe I should just widen the driveway some

 

[beppington]

I will say this, a 7'er is really almost too big for small one lane driveways because on the return pass it puts the crown way off center. I think a 6'er would have been a better choice, but then again maybe I should just widen the driveway some

I think that just means you need to tilt the left side up a little more so that the left skid doesn't touch the ground, i.e. that the right skid does skid & only 3 or 4 feet of the blade touches ground, not the entire thing. Does that make sense?

That is, of course, if you're trying to crown your driveway where it has a peak in the middle.

 

[MotorSeven]

I think that just means you need to tilt the left side up a little more so that the left skid doesn't touch the ground, i.e. that the right skid does skid & only 3 or 4 feet of the blade touches ground, not the entire thing. Does that make sense?

That is, of course, if you're trying to crown your driveway where it has a peak in the middle.

I am having a problem with my side link cylinder leaking down and it makes it hard to hold a angle for any length of time. I think I am going to have to replace it since the shaft is bent a wee bit...but that's another story.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am having a problem with my side link cylinder leaking down and it makes it hard to hold a angle for any length of time. I think I am going to have to replace it since the shaft is bent a wee bit...but that's another story.

$275 for a custom side link for your DK40, 2 1/2" dia cylinder, 4" stroke, 1 1/2" dia rod. Equal tilt to both sides. Flow restrictor, hoses & shipping are additional costs.

 

[MotorSeven]

$275 for a custom side link for your DK40, 2 1/2" dia cylinder, 4" stroke, 1 1/2" dia rod. Equal tilt to both sides. Flow restrictor, hoses & shipping are additional costs.

I was doing a little research on hyd cylinders w/check valves, but have not decided on one yet.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was doing a little research on hyd cylinders w/check valves, but have not decided on one yet.

Does either of your rear remotes have a float position? If one of them does, I would skip the side link with the DPOCV. But that may just be me and a few others.

 

[MotorSeven]

MtnView,
No, I have draft control, but no float. My top cylinder does not leak down, and I am pretty sure the side one is pooched from the bent shaft. I am just hesitant to replace it, then have the same problem since they ain't cheap. So if I want to guarantee against leak down what do you recommend?

 

[MotorSeven]

Oh, and I know you are wondering...so here it is:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/136403-oops-gonna-cost.html