BX25 GrappleOmatic

[Artisan]

I have been getting a lot of requests for costs. I have not been keeping track of
costs. It is fair to say I am into this somewhere around $1K. Here is a
pretty comprehensive list of materials for you to cost;

Again, DO YOUR HOMEWORK, CHECK MY DIMENSIONS, PRETEND THIS IS ALL WRONG before doing anything.
VERIFY I have done all this right and that
you are not killing a warranty or a tractor, be safe, keep all people clear
of machine at all times. VERIFY my info is right! Relieve pressure off hydraulic
lines before opening them, be SAFE.

MAJOR COMPONENETS

1- Fasse Diverter valve #302-666 w/ Extension Cable
1- Fasse #PBGRIP, W/ Handle Adaptor
1- Greens-Machine Grapple (The Thumb) assembly complete (There Smallest)


GRAPPLE MOUNT TO ANGLE IRON

1- 3.5" x 3.5' x .25"Thick X 46.375" Metal Angle Iron
2- Metal Angle Iron Hand Scribbed triangular angle iron filler ends
4- Hex Bolts 5/8"-16 X 2"
4- Washer 5/8" Bolt
4- Nuts 5/8"-16


MISC.

2- Rattle Can Spray Paint Kubota Newstyle
1- Rattle Can Spray Paint Gloss Black

2'- 3/4" ID Convoluted Tube
10'- 1/4" ID Convoluted Tube

Zip Ties

1- 1/2" Type "L" Copper x about 2" long

2- Electrical Crimp connectors, blue x BX25 battery bolt diameter.

FASSE VALVE MOUNT

2- 4"OD x .25" wall x 1"long DOM Tube
1- 5.75" Long x 3.25"OD wide x 1.5"OD Tall x .10" metal channel
2- 5/16" x 3.25" Hex Bolts
4- 5/16" Heavy AN Washer
2- 5/16" Nyloc Nuts

4- AA-092A "L" Bracket

2- 1/4-20 x 1" hex Bolts
2- 1/4-20 Nyloc Nuts

2- 2" Hinge (Irwindale, CA store)

FASSE VALVE FITTINGS

1- -8 ORB x -6 MJIC Straight fitting (Port P1 on Fasse valve)
3- -8 ORB x -6 MJIC 90 Degree fitting (Ports P2, C1, C4 on Fasse valve)
2- -8 ORB x -6 MJIC 45 Degree fitting (Ports c2, c3 on Fasse valve)
1- 1/4" MNPT x -6 MJIC 90 Degree Fitting (Top of Curl Cylinder)
2- 3/8" MNPT x -6 MJIC 90 Degree Fitting (Grapple Cylinder )
8- -6FJIC x 1/4" ID Hydraulic Hose crimp fittings (Hoses)

Hose dimensions End to End overall total lengths;

15"
21.5"
54.75"
63.5"

MISC. NOTES

Disconnect both hoses from existing curl cylinder,
Plumb the OE hose w/ the factory 90 degree crimped hose fitting on it to P1,
Plumb the OE hose w/ the factory straight crimped hose fitting on it to P2,
Run new hose, 15.00" long from C1 to curl cylinder top after you replace the top fitting to a 90,
Run new hose, 21.50" long from C4 to curl Cylinder bottom 90* fitting,
Run new hose, 54.75" long from C2 to grapple cylinder top,
Run new hose, 63.50" long from C3 to grapple cylinder bottom.

This could change at anytime should I modify it for any reason.

I will be making minor tweeks over time, stay tuned,

Saammmee Bat Time, Saammmee Bat Channel....

 

[cschulz]

Thanks Brad, much appreciated.



Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

Thanks Artisan for the summary of materials and notes. Maybe if I do this in stages I can swallow the $1K cost. You know, spread it out over a year or so and just hope I don't loose focus and not finish it. I will have to check local dealers first on that Fasse valve and replacement joystick handle. Decision, decisions. Thanks again for a super job documenting this mod with pic's and all.

 

[bindian]

Thanks Artisan for the summary of materials and notes. Maybe if I do this in stages I can swallow the $1K cost. You know, spread it out over a year or so and just hope I don't loose focus and not finish it. I will have to check local dealers first on that Fasse valve and replacement joystick handle. Decision, decisions. Thanks again for a super job documenting this mod with pic's and all.

That is one of the nice things about DIY. Besides the satisfaction, You can spread the cost out over several paychecks.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Artisan,
That is a very nice fab. and installation.:thumbsup: Congratulations.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Artisan]

Artisan,
That is a very nice fab. and installation.:thumbsup: Congratulations.
hugs, Brandi

Thank you and all...(were watching yours still Brandi !)

And yes, you can actually buy just the mount from greens-machine and then
buy the angle iron and do a BUNCH of fab work as you save for the rest....
Just that part of it will take you a good long while!

 

[radioman]

Its too late now - but I think you should have used metal line from fasse unit to end of curl cylinder and then rubber rest of way. your hose is moving way too much through the open space of clevis mount point.

At this point of time - I really think you need to mod up a curled sheet metal to provide a longer curve radius for less rubbing of hoses as you curl the curl and open and close the grapple. I know you said you plan to add braided hose protection sleeve, but I fear it might not be enough.

 

[Artisan]

I had considered solid lines here and there but...I found a Weatherhead
T-450 for a song w/ dies so I was chompin' at the bit wanting to make some
hoses for the first time, and, when I realized that I might be able to pull off
routing the hose thru the lower curl cylinder mount I just went for it. Also
I did not want to put a lot of time into solid lines till I tested things.
Right now, the plan is to individually wrap each hose w/ nylon braided
mesh then wrap the two inside one more mesh. I think I will achieve
2 layers of mesh shielding each from from each other in attempt to
eliminate hose to hose chaffing, then another wrap to keep them together
as a unit. We'll see but at the bottom maybe I'll install 18" or so of plastic,
rounded-edge spiral for a little added protection.

I appreciate the comments.

I am shopping for wire mesh now to barely fit over the -6FJIC x -4Crimp fittings.

I just went and measured and the crimp fiting flare out to .80" so I guess
I need to find some mesh w/ that ID. Then 1.30" ID I believe will work for
the pair.

 

[SPYDERLK]

While youre trying to double sleeve hoses over a length youll ether decide against it or choose a loose outer sleeve. Makes it sloppy and bulky for very slight gain.
larry

 

[Artisan]

While youre trying to double sleeve hoses over a length youll ether decide against it or choose a loose outer sleeve. Makes it sloppy and bulky for very slight gain.
larry

Sounds like the voice of experience!

 

[radioman]

perhaps its better with a single sleeve then double. makes it easier to slide without all that bulk.

 

[Artisan]

I think I will order enough sleeve to do what I originally wanted to do and
see how it goes. I kinda like the idea of 1 sleeve on each hose so I get
2- sleeves worth of buffer between the two hoses to prevent chaffing.

 

[bindian]

Thank you and all...(were watching yours still Brandi !)

And yes, you can actually buy just the mount from greens-machine and then
buy the angle iron and do a BUNCH of fab work as you save for the rest....
Just that part of it will take you a good long while!

Artisan,
The hoses, sleeve, and reusable fittings are here, waiting on me. I had to tear down my old workshop yesterday. Today will be digging up two big dead oak trees that could hit the barn or house. Tomorrow is Easter and my daughter and her boyfrined will be coming over. Also, I'll be looking at the equipment for auction at the RB Auction. Monday it suppose to rain here, so that is the day to install the hoses.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Sounds like the voice of experience!

I think I will order enough sleeve to do what I originally wanted to do and
see how it goes. I kinda like the idea of 1 sleeve on each hose so I get
2- sleeves worth of buffer between the two hoses to prevent chaffing.

I only sleeved ea indiv hose as they left the collective sleeve at the grapple. My collective sleeve is quite snug on the double hose run - had to feed them thru staggered. Working the indiv sleeving at the grapple into the the collective sleeve was very difficult. Got it in a couple inches tho and tied it tight. Chaffing of hoses against one another wont be a problem for you either way. Its sharp flexing bends, kinking, crushing, or routine rubbing against the ground that they cant take. The sleeving is excellent for the last, a little for easing bending at the fitting if fixed to it, and almost totally ineffective against a crush - other than to hide it.
larry

 

[gdanuser]

Artisan,

If you can get the BX series tractors to produce around 15 GPM this would turn this tractor into an attachment machine. We have had several requests here at Danuser for augers on the BX series tractors. At this time we don't offer a 3pt digger small enough for this tractor. If the flow was around 15 GPM we could offer hydraulic augers for the front of the loader. Keep up the good work and keep me posted on your success!

 

[bigballer]

nice job artisan - i really enjoyed reading this and seeing the photos of your work. i have an L series bota tractor with 2 curl cylinders, how would the feeds be plumbed? does it require a T in the line or a different valve?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Artisan,

If you can get the BX series tractors to produce around 15 GPM this would turn this tractor into an attachment machine. We have had several requests here at Danuser for augers on the BX series tractors. At this time we don't offer a 3pt digger small enough for this tractor. If the flow was around 15 GPM we could offer hydraulic augers for the front of the loader. Keep up the good work and keep me posted on your success!

Cant do at reasonable pressure. Its a prime mover issue. Ya just cant squeeze more blood out of a turnip than it has in it.
larry

 

[bigballer]

nice job artisan - i really enjoyed reading this and seeing the photos of your work. i have an L series bota tractor with 2 curl cylinders, how would the feeds be plumbed? does it require a T in the line or a different valve?

i took a look at my set up and discovered both curl cylinders are connected to the same hardline so i would need to add this valve right at the joint where the hoses connect into hardline coming off the main cylinder.

like this:

curl feed (rubber) <-> diverter valve <-> hardline to cylinders

i might have a hard time getting the hardlines connected to the valve so would need a short run of rubber between the valve and the hardlines going to the curls.

i am also considering a 3rd function which would change the setup.

now that you have used it a bit do you think you would benefit from 3rd function or is the diverter working well for you?

 

[Artisan]

I have been having connectivity issues with JUST the TBN website so please excuse the absence...

B-ballr I wouldn't change a thing. It is fast, intuitive and strong.
Go for it!

GDanuser, I am not looking at the Rear PTO currently, actually all that stuff is in THIS thread, come on over...I have a comment for you.

Larry is right, read more about it HERE

 

[dstig1]

Nice work, Artisan. You are even more of an over-engineer than I am

As far as shortening the wire harness, you will be better off to leave the crimps alone as they tend to require special tools. The best way to handle that without the crimper is to cut and resplice the wire in the middle of the run with solder and heat shrink tubing. You can do it somewhere protected or hidden if you like. Far easier than dealing with the crimper issue and is a tried-and-true method.

This reminds me that I never posted up my Fasse valve and grapple install. I should probably do that sometime soon...