Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes)

   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #61  
Glad you got it fixed. Now you have a spare magnet for the future.

What was the verdict on your Dodge Controller? Did you ever get it checked out/reprogrammed by the dealer?

Chris
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes)
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Glad you got it fixed. Now you have a spare magnet for the future.

Indeed. And I know where the zerks are for greasing my bearings. And I've got valuable troubleshooting experience. I don't know how I missed that the wire was broke.

Actually, now that I think about it, I do. For whatever reason, the leads coming from the brakes are tied in an overhand knot. The break in the wire was up-stream of that knot, which meant when I was handling them, I never noticed that one was loose.
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes)
  • Thread Starter
#63  
What was the verdict on your Dodge Controller? Did you ever get it checked out/reprogrammed by the dealer?

I have not even looked into that yet, to tell you the truth. I've been busy with a million other things, and it's only the magnet coming in the mail that got me thinking about this again.
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes)
  • Thread Starter
#64  
- Lube or repack every 12 months or 12,000 miles

Do you think that this means to take out the bearings, clean them out, and hand-pack them? Or can I just squirt more grease into the zerks on the axle?
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #65  
From the way it is described on page 56 of the link I posted, at least with Dexter EZ Lube axle, yes(squirt more grease in). They indicate as you squirt more grease in, it will push the old grease out around the zerk fitting. Then you wipe the old stuff out of the cap area when you see the new grease coming out.

That page 56 has a good diagram showing how it works.

Do you think that this means to take out the bearings, clean them out, and hand-pack them? Or can I just squirt more grease into the zerks on the axle?
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #66  
That is where an Amp Clamp is nice. Clamp on amp meter just goes over the wire.

Funny, this post made me think of that. I did not even think to use it a year ago when I had brake issues on my 5th wheel; it was just sitting in the toolbox...

Indeed. And I know where the zerks are for greasing my bearings. And I've got valuable troubleshooting experience. I don't know how I missed that the wire was broke.
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #67  
I haven't seen the Dexter design, it may have better seals than most.

BUT, be conscious of the issue of over-greasing with a grease gun. On some trailers, it is pretty easy to push grease past a basic seal and flood the shoes with grease.

Shoes and hardware will last a very long time with grease in there, and will be nice and quiet, but that is not what most of us want/need !

Rgds, D.
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #68  
My wife doesn't like it when I have a stripper, much less two, even if they did just graduate :)

And we don't either if your not sharing!!:D
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes) #69  
In the earlier link I posted, Dexter warns not to use a pneumatic grease gun, 'cause they will blow grease past the seals too easily.

I haven't seen the Dexter design, it may have better seals than most.

BUT, be conscious of the issue of over-greasing with a grease gun. On some trailers, it is pretty easy to push grease past a basic seal and flood the shoes with grease.
 
   / Troubleshooting trailer ground (weak brakes)
  • Thread Starter
#70  
I have a hand-pumped grease gun. I checked my axle owner's manual that came with the trailer, and it says that my trailer may have "Accu-lube" hubs, with zerks and rubber caps on the dust covers. It has all those things, which suggests I should be able to just pump new grease in until the old grease comes out. But then again, it also says the Accu-lube hubs should have a flat lock washer on the castle nut, but I have a cotter pin.

I think the presence of the zerks is pretty definitive, and that's probably how I'll change the grease going forward. Presumably, it's designed for use with a grease gun, right? Seems kind of dumb if they design them to be lubed through the zerk, but you can't do it due to overpressure concerns.
 

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