Trailer Ramps ............

[grnspot110]

Does the jack get welded to the trailer frame at the rear? Could it be attached on the side rails near the rear? This sounds like a simple solution for a problem I thought was complicated.

My 16' trailer had 5' ramps to hold up a 8000# tractor when I bought it. Went back later & had the mfr. put on a ramp-gate.

The picture shows the "loading legs" that were an option. 2" sq. thick wall tubing w/foot, on level ground the legs are 1-1/2" off the ground. Loaded, just back up a few inches & swing them up! My JD 790 usually doesn't even put them to the ground. ~~ grnspot110

 

[OneMan]

Thanks for the info and I will try some of the suggestions.

 

[dstig1]

Yes, just weld them on the rear corner of the trailer where it will fold up out of the way, not get in the way, and keep the tail lights clear.

Chris

I looked at doing that on mine. The first few times I loaded it, I had nothing back there, so it was probably putting immense upward pressure on the ball. Fortunately my ignorance didn't hurt anything. Now I use simple car jack stands under the rear of the side rails. The jacks would interfere with the brake lights on mine, I am sure. No good place to put them without moving the lights or something. And I'm not sure there is a good place to move them to.

 

[Soundguy]

carry a piece of cribbing to throw under the rear of the trailer.. then it won't pick up the back of the truck.

cheap and easy..

soundguy

Sorry I'm late to join this thread but have been busy with snow and new puppies (10).
My proble or question is: My sopn has a 22' trailer with the pack away ramps that go under the trailer. Yes they weigh a ton and support the tractor (JD3032E) while being loaded but........"The trailer has to be connected to the pull vehicle while loading and the back end rises while loading.
I'm looking for a way to make supports for the rear of the trailer which will support it while loading but can be stored or folded. The foldup type seem to have a support buile into the design but the pack aways don't have the extra support.
Any help,,,,,that is if you can understand my rant..

 

[Skyco]

Yes, just weld them on the rear corner of the trailer where it will fold up out of the way, not get in the way, and keep the tail lights clear.

I looked at doing that on mine. The first few times I loaded it, I had nothing back there, so it was probably putting immense upward pressure on the ball. Fortunately my ignorance didn't hurt anything. Now I use simple car jack stands under the rear of the side rails. The jacks would interfere with the brake lights on mine, I am sure. No good place to put them without moving the lights or something. And I'm not sure there is a good place to move them to.

I had the problem with blocking the tailights on my car/equipment trailer. I used the jacks that attach to a pipe post with a pin...I simply welded additional posts to the tongue where the jacks reside out of the way horizontally when not actually using them on the rear.
These-

 

[rimshot]

I have the ramps that slide under my 16 ft car carrier trailer. I did not like the way that the ramps sagged when I loaded my 4000 lb Kioti CK20 with backhoe and FEL.

I just built an inexpensive chock /stiff leg for the center. I set it just so the ramp can sag ever so slightly and that seems to prevent any teeter taughter effect as the weight of the tractor pushes down the ramp over the chock. It works for me.

 

[JerryK]

I'm with SoundGuy... I keep a small assortment of wood blocks/leftover chunks of treated timbers/etc. in my trailer to block up the back while I drive in/off my flatbed. They are also handy to have around if you need to change a tire on soft ground. Cheap and does the job. They ride well, and I don't think I have ever even come close to lose one....

 

[Soundguy]

ditto that. mke good wheel chocks or drive over jacks in an emergency. all sorts of good uses for an otherwise piece of scrap timber. I like the price too!

and few people steal them!

soundguy

 

[Diamondpilot]

I looked at doing that on mine. The first few times I loaded it, I had nothing back there, so it was probably putting immense upward pressure on the ball. Fortunately my ignorance didn't hurt anything. Now I use simple car jack stands under the rear of the side rails. The jacks would interfere with the brake lights on mine, I am sure. No good place to put them without moving the lights or something. And I'm not sure there is a good place to move them to.

I have the same issue with my current trailer. Carried a jack stand for 7 years now in the tool box on the trailer and it works like a charm. Cheap and easy plus I have it on hand if I have a issue with a bearing or brake that needs fixed on the side of the road. Much safer than leaving it on the 6 ton bottle jack I also carry.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I had the problem with blocking the tailights on my car/equipment trailer. I used the jacks that attach to a pipe post with a pin...I simply welded additional posts to the tongue where the jacks reside out of the way horizontally when not actually using them on the rear.
These-

Clever fix.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

ditto that. mke good wheel chocks or drive over jacks in an emergency. all sorts of good uses for an otherwise piece of scrap timber. I like the price too!

and few people steal them!

soundguy

Yep, I carry a few myself. 2x8, 4x4, and 6x6. Too handy to not have around.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

ditto that. lots of uses. places to drop a trailer foot.. etc..

soundguy

 

[dstig1]

I had the problem with blocking the tailights on my car/equipment trailer. I used the jacks that attach to a pipe post with a pin...I simply welded additional posts to the tongue where the jacks reside out of the way horizontally when not actually using them on the rear.
These-

Sneaky. I like it!:thumbsup:

 

[Barthbill]

Here I am, over a year after the last poster, but it seems to be the place to post this question.

I have a two-axle 10K car hauler trailer that is missing its ramps. The storage will allow two 7 ft long 4 X 12s.

I would probably nail and glue together eight 2 X 4s to make stronger, less split-prone boards.

The ramps are needed soon to move a car, but want them to support a tractor in the future. Probably a 25 to 35 hp diesel compact with a front loader and a Gannon.

Would these be strong enough to support such a tractor?

Or should I use Glulam? I know it is stronger, but not how much stronger.

 

[Soundguy]

wood? never would I try but in an emergency.

i'd go with heavy angle on angle

 

[Diamondpilot]

Have some welded up. I would not trust wood ramps.

Chris

 

[Ductape]

Have some welded up. I would not trust wood ramps.

Chris

Agreed.

 

[Ductape]

Since this thread has been drug up I'd like to add I still have not purchased any ramps to load my tractor into my dump trailer. One of these days I will buy some though. I did end up making a pair of ramps out of some steel that I had hanging around. I used 2" square tubing with some small angle welded across 'ladder' style, every 6". Boy they are heavy though.

 

[dstig1]

I still love the alum ramps from discount ramps.com They cost me the same as steel ramps would have and are sooo much lighter and easier to handle. Plus no rust and they also seem sturdier than the bent up ramps that came with the trailer. They have a bunch of styles, so probably something that would work. Wood is only good for loading light stuff - a few hundred pounds at most.

 

[bcp]

Wood ramps make better movies: