New 2 me YANMAR 2210 BD 4X4- NOW-SERVICE QUESTIONS?

[RUMBLON]

Thanks, as I went along I could see that was the only place. It just seems odd that its so low. Again, sometimes its better to have no knowledge as it goes against performance hotrod stuff.

Thanks Winston. I will see if I can save it some where as I have no printer up here.

OK, next dumb question. I drained everything, and everything seemed ok, except the front diff, a little not much of goldish foam but not that much material at all so far. I read one of you said could take all day to drain so will leave it overnight to drain? No real water per say but the ity bit of foam would indicate at least a tad. am I correct?

So tomorrow I will filler er all up. Its 320 here and its time for a hose shower on my outdoor shower on the pond as I have no pressure tank here and thus no water heater both are here, waiting for a plumber to help as I dont want to screw up the pressure tank as I have not done one.

after a shower its Martini/ two olives two onions an AVO Cigar and some Sinatra and relax on the pond for the rest of the evening.


Dave

 

[RUMBLON]

By the way. Being a restoration guy and restoring this myself, ( 70 CUDA VERT 440-6- NOW) I have this attention for detail in the resto process. I have YELLOW oil fills knobs and just reshot/ painted then in yellow. I dont know if orange is the correct color or not but I did yellow because it was that color. I also removed the drivers side (for the lack of a better term/ left) side panel that is white. Roughed it up and rattle canned it in white. It had some rust spots so I have this thing in my head that says, paint it paint it.

I could see myself buying these, restoring them and selling them, they are easy and fun and not too expensive. I mean like hotrod expensive, $700 for a dash cap plus core expensive.

my first resto as it looks today.

cuda vert at fun days

 

[RUMBLON]

 

[Barry72]

rumblom I would also add to your maintenance is a complete check of all nuts and bolts on the tractor. I would recommend to all yanmar owners to do this every 100 hrs depending on use. the metric lock washers aren't as strong as American. have fun with your tractor

 

[jerrybob]

Good advice above........you're going to like that Yanmar. Nice Cuda as well. As mentioned......don't forget the radiator and changing the fluids isn't hard to do. That screen is important and.....yes....you can run ATF if JD303 isn't available. Careful with that bucket......not too high and you might need to add some weight in the rear. Coldwater is close to where I live.......good folks to deal with. Enjoy and be safe!!!

 

[California]

rumblom I would also add to your maintenance is a complete check of all nuts and bolts on the tractor. I would recommend to all yanmar owners to do this every 100 hrs depending on use. the metric lock washers aren't as strong as American. have fun with your tractor

Excellent point, essential for equipment of unknown history. I would add blue Locktite to anything I found loose.

 

[Neat 1500]

Nice Cuda, i want a 70 Challenger when i can afford one :drool:

 

[RUMBLON]

Anyone here have a little 1401 YANMAR 2x4. There is one for sale locally that I am going to check out. Guy wants under 2K for it with a loader. Sounds like a great price. He says it has 890 hours on it and runs perfect.

 

[California]

Anyone here have a little 1401 YANMAR 2x4. There is one for sale locally that I am going to check out. Guy wants under 2K for it with a loader. Sounds like a great price. He says it has 890 hours on it and runs perfect.

Look it over to verify its all there. THEN JUMP ON IT! That's cheap enough to resell for more if you want to eventually. It's an excellent model. 2wd is a compromise to low cost but is very workable - its not a deal killer as some might say who don't know any better.

Anything with a loader (that runs ok) will be such an improvement to whatever you are doing, you'll wonder why you didn't do this sooner.



Added: Just for fun, here are some photos from the first couple of years I had my loader.

The first one is re-opening a lane covered by 10 years of blackberry bushes. No way would I attempt this with hand tools but the loader ripped them right out of the ground as I moved forward. The rest of the photos explain themselves.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...e-after-746903-dscn4593rtractorinbrambles.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7-hooks-bucket-673366-img_3091bucket-logs.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...es-make-tractor-man-681775-dscn4404rforks.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...4961-tractor-cleaning-601539-loader-2796r.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...6586105-loader-curl-weak-439695-dscn4844r.jpg

One where the text in the post is needed to understand the photo
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-controls-aftermarket-double.html#post3016019

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...m-2000-owners-p1170597rlifttransplanttree.jpg

As you can see, this is 2wd and works fine. Also, unrestored, and it doesn't seem to notice the difference.

 

[RUMBLON]

Ok another dumb question. The chart I read says 18 Quarts of Hydraulic fluid. How do you tell when its full? There us no dipstick and I added probably to much as I used almost the full five gallons, (except for what spilled) and no visible fluid in the tank case filler hole? If I added too much will it hurt the unit? Should I remove some fluid or fire it up and see what happens?

RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

OK, I think I have it serviced for the most part, radiator flush- front dif- engine oil, I used DELO 15-40. And new hydraulic fluid. I see there is a small black hose coming out of the back, maybe an over-flo for the crank case?

Now I have assembled by AUGER for the back. I have one question. It says to slip the spring loaded drive shaft onto the PTO shaft and it will click when secure. I cant get it to click or secure and if and when I do, how do I remove it, if it clicks or locks somehow? I have never used a PTO or implements.

Just need to get the shaft on and I think I am ready to go.

RUMBLON

 

[284 International]

Rumblon, that's a lovely 'Cuda. I'd love to see more photos of the restoration process.

To expand on what California said: If the 1401 has everything in good shape that's a good enough price to be able to resell it and not lose anything. However, I would treat the tractor as a powered wheelbarrow with the ability to lift a load to 6' high. It will scoop loose material, but I wouldn't expect to be able to do any digging.

The 1401 has its front axle set rather far back, and is VERY nose-heavy with a loader. With a scoop load of dirt, mine sometimes needs to be in 4 wheel drive just to move itself through loose dirt, and that is with a box blade on the back with about 250 lbs of extra weight added. Without anything on the rear, I imagine attempting to lift a loaded bucket would instead just hoist the back tires off the ground. I would strongly recommend budgeting for something to counterbalance the loader if it doesn't already have something.

 

[RUMBLON]

OK, so everything seemed to go ok but now I cant get the auger to attach to the PTO shaft? Here are some pics of the end of the auger shaft and the PTO shaft. I have checked online but cant find a video or anything for fieldmaster to show how to attach it. I did find other companies and one one of them there is an extended shaft with a pin you pull out. This does not have it. Does it look like Im missing parts? I cant push this auger shaft onto the PTO shaft any further than it is and it wont lock into place and if it did, I cant see how you would remove it?

Any advise as I have never installed any implement ever. I was hoping to start digging fence post holes today.

 

[RUMBLON]

YEP, THAT WAS IT, my wife actually looked at it and said the same thing before I got this reply. I had to pull that colar out and slide it on and it clicked. simple. Thanks for the reply.

Dave

 

[winston1]

Pretty sure just a play on words but just wanting to make sure you used combination transmission/hydraulic fluid and not just hydraulic as stated in post 31.

 

[RUMBLON]

Pretty sure just a play on words but just wanting to make sure you used combination transmission/hydraulic fluid and not just hydraulic as stated in post 31.

Winston I hope I used the correct stuff-- I used this

 

[California]

If that bucket says it can be used where Deere 303 is specified - its fine.

 

[winston1]

I do not pretend to be a lube expert. I looked at numerous sights about the Super S and conclude I don't know.

 

[rkelner]

Greetings Winston1:

I joined tractorbynet to learn more about maintaining a 1948 International C tractor my Dad left me when he passed away. But he also left me a Yanmar 2210D 4x4 tractor that I have struggled to maintain as well. I am a computer guy not a back yard mechanic by any stretch. Can you tell me where you (I) could obtain (download from a web site) a pdf copy of the 2210D manual you are all referring to in this thread? Thank you. Ronald

 

[California]

hope I used the correct stuff

A retailer and the distributor recommend it as a suitable replacement for the John Deere 303 fluid that Yanmar specified.

The distributor notes it is for moderate temperatures (like single-grade motor oil); outside that range they recommend their premium fluid. That sounds like 303 to me. Remember Yanmar specifies 5 minute warmup before moving the tractor, probably to get the hydraulic fluid warmed up. But nobody warms up that long!

Rural King

Atlantis-usa

Applications
Super S SuperTrac 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid is designed for use as a replacement fluid for the hydraulic, wet brake, and transmission requirements of equipment manufacturers where a product of this quality is recommended, including:
... John Deere 303, J20A ...

SuperTrac 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid is recommended for ambient temperatures between +32F and 104F (0C to 40C). For ambient temperatures outside this range or where a premium tractor hydraulic/transmission oil is required, please use Super S Premium Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid.