ShieldArc's Amazon killer deal on Everlast???

[CNC Dan]

Actually they come in THREE sizes...but I digress.....Ask for the 50 series or the 35/70mm2. Or the half inch DINSE.

I stand corrected. Three it is.
Never seen the big ones then. Must be gigantic.

 

[boomer1025]

Forget about the duty cycle and wire the circuit to match the breaker you are using.

 

[CNC Dan]

Im not sure, but I think my my welding leads are 2/0 ( bought them at an auction 20 years ago, and they have been stashed away in the basement ever since. Will the 35/70 MM work?
I still am not able to figure out metric measurements

There is no part of the connector that will measure as the size they are sold as. It's square milimeters wire size they will accept.

 

[CNC Dan]

A 50 70 is may be too long as it seems I remember that these may stick out further but will still fit. The measurement has to do with the cross section dimensions of the cable...somehow. Here's a link to the 50.
https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:05303

Here's a link to DINSE itself and it explains things.

Is there a second link missing?!?

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Is there a second link missing?!?

Hmmm. Try again: http://www.dinse-us.com/media/1/1/1867/dinse_plugs_sockets_usa.pdf

 

[crackerjack222]

I tried out my machine today and ran some of the best beads I have run in a long time, just practicing. So then I rounded up material from my supply bins and started making a base with wheels for it.
Then I tried to take the dinse connector off, that was no problem. Then I tried to take the tong electrode holder off. Oops.... the screw to remove the sheath says "Non Removable Screw". While I dont believe there is any such thing as non-removable, I think I will just go buy another dinse connector and electrode holder. Then I will have both a 10' cable and a 50' cable. My $290 welder is now going to cost me another $130 or so including the new 50' cable and wheels for the cart.

Oh well, just spending the kid's inheritance.....

 

[crackerjack222]

duplicate post

 

[joshuabardwell]

Forget about the duty cycle and wire the circuit to match the breaker you are using.

This is fine advice, but copper isn't cheap. Here is the relevant table from the NEC:



The PA300 has a 60% duty cycle at maximum amperage. At max amperage, it pulls a sustained 46.8 amps. At a 60% duty cycle, a non-motor generator has a duty cycle multiplier of 0.78. 0.78 * 46.8 amps = 36.5 amps. Looking at wire gauge tables, the derate basically seems to drop you down one wire gauge size, so actually I would probably agree with Boomer that you may as well keep life simple and just wire up the circuit with a 50 amp breaker and the appropriate size of wiring. Unless maybe you have a really long cable run and the difference in cost on the wire to go down one size will matter.

EDIT: I am not an electrician. This is not professional advice.

 

[Furu]

Guys you got me on that. We don't have any control on what Amazon ships out when and where, or really what. As you see, someone got a newer style stinger, and some others got the stub type we left about that time. I'd be interested to see the different inspection dates. I know we sent a lot to them over the last few months. It may represent multiple shipments we made, and they stockpiled them. I don't know. I am not an Amazon guru. I'd assume these are new, at least they were from us. If it came from an Amazon return center, did the box have factory white banding around it, and was it sealed only once with tape? Did it come wrapped in a clear type plastic bag? I would not worry too much though if they work...warranty is still the same as always since what we shipped them was new when we shipped it. If it is a return, it's possible a customer saw that fourth wire, and thought it was supposed to be hooked up like a dryer, didn't work and he sent it back and they received it and tested it and it checked out fine...just throwing out wild educated guesses here though...because I have seen that happen on our end. OR they tried to use both negatives with the torch and work leads and got no "spark".

When we tell people that if you buy from Amazon, you are buying older stock, or possibly a different package than what we sell direct, some people think we are trying to con them or trying to hard sell them, but I think this is a good experiment. Older stock? Confirmed. Different accessories, not able to guarantee what it comes with? Confirmed. Possible new, but returned unit from Amazon itself? Maybe. We still honor the warranty though just as new unless the unit is marked as used or by another party than us or Amazon. Sometimes you'll see from: $XXX.XX (2 used 10 new). Watch out on the cheapest as those are used. Not in this case though. lol.

Well my unit showed up today
Certainly looked like a brand new unit to me.
Clear plastic bag that did not look as if it was anything but the original bag. White banding on the box. Old style stub stinger.
Box looked as if it had been raped by a forklift.
It had clearly been violated by one.
Packing was such that not a thing looked wrong inside however have not run it yet as of late hour.

Not that I have any idea what I am talking about but from what folks are posting and what was seen with the pricing, I can not help but wonder if Amazon loss leaded the units as they were "STALE STOCK" that had not sold and they were trying to clear them out. They succeeded very well in clearing them out I would say.

8 June and 10 June 2013 respectively for inspecting and testing. Was shipped from Sacramento warehouse.



Never used a stub electrode holder. How does one release it quickly if you stick, or is it so tight that you just rip it off and the electrode does not come out? That might be nice come to think of it.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

That is a stub type. ...not a tong type you have. A tong type has a plier like action. A stub type screws to tighten.