Need help welding hooks

   / Need help welding hooks
  • Thread Starter
#24  
All I can say is I suck at stick welding. I tried 6011 at 105 amps and it seemed to work. I then went over it with 7018ac and it smoothes right out. It looked nicer but still crappy. I need alot of practice at this. Not easy like mig welding. Thanks for all the input
 
   / Need help welding hooks #25  
I know, but it is all in good fun.:)

Just kidding. Looks good. :thumbsup:
Besides, welding something on the sides of those hills, would practically be an overhead weld anyway. That would get you extra kudo's. :D
 
   / Need help welding hooks #26  
   / Need help welding hooks #27  
Did you notice the factory welds that weld that little pad to the bucket? I think that if anything rips off it will be the factory weld. I actually though about grinding off the paint and going over that factory weld, but I didn't do it. But I reckon it will hold anything the loader will lift anyway.


Yes,

Your welds look far superior!

Imagine what you could do with a Blue machine??

Just kidding .... I'm starting to get too shaky to run beads so straight. I've even noticed a difference since last year. But, I keep burning rods for practice. I'm going to try lift TIG soon ... see if that's any better.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #28  
I'm starting to get too shaky to run beads so straight. I've even noticed a difference since last year.

I hear ya there!!!
When I was young, I welded one handed. Now, it takes both hands and both feet to get 'er steady. :eek:
 
   / Need help welding hooks #29  
Wow! Whata bunch of quick responses. The hooks are forged 3/8 chain hooks that I cut the clevis end off and ground the bottom flat.
That is what I put on both my tractors and had no problem with welding them just as I instructed in my first post. There should be no difference in material for the welded hooks vs clevis hooks except the design for hooking on the chain as they are both forged steel. I just used my grinder to cut off the clevis end, beveled the sides a bit and welded them on. They weld better after removing the plating from them anyway.

If using a reinforcement plate to weld them on, I would use at least a 1/4" thick plate otherwise you may as well weld them to the bucket directly. The strength of the plate that you weld to limits the strength of the attachment regardless of how well it is welded on.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #30  
Yes,

Your welds look far superior!

Imagine what you could do with a Blue machine??

Just kidding .... I'm starting to get too shaky to run beads so straight. I've even noticed a difference since last year. But, I keep burning rods for practice. I'm going to try lift TIG soon ... see if that's any better.

I don't mean to discourage you, by all means try it, but I find TIG requires more precision than stick. I really like it a lot, but it requires a pretty steady hand, or you will have the tungsten in the puddle in a heartbeat, and that ain't good.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #31  
Heck, I used ordinary chain hooks with the eye cut off, ground the edges and welded to a 3 x 4" backer and that backer welded to the center of my bucket.
Probably used 6011, 1/8 at I'd guess 90 amps or so.
That was about 8-10 years ago and for sure that hook has withstood every test I could put it to.
Nothing very special about adding a hook, however I do suggest it be installed in the center of the bucket for safety sake.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #32  
If you weld it in the center of the bucket how can you get three wheels in the air?
 
   / Need help welding hooks #34  
Heck, I used ordinary chain hooks with the eye cut off, ground the edges and welded to a 3 x 4" backer and that backer welded to the center of my bucket.
Probably used 6011, 1/8 at I'd guess 90 amps or so.
That was about 8-10 years ago and for sure that hook has withstood every test I could put it to.
Nothing very special about adding a hook, however I do suggest it be installed in the center of the bucket for safety sake.

I would never put a hook in the middle of the bucket without first putting in a substantial stiffener. I have seen too many buckets with the middle all caved in from center hooks and overloading the bucket. Once bent, they are really hard to straighten out.
I put my hooks centered on the lift cylinders and if lifting a heavy load and only want a single chain lift, I use a chain to suspend between the two hooks then hook my load chain to that suspended chain so it is lifted from the center of the tractor but the force is on each side.
Otherwise, I just use a double suspension from each hook to lift the load.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #35  
I just welded hooks on the top corners of my bucket a few days ago. I used 3/8 clevis hooks from Harbor Freight, cut the clevis off, and ground the plating off. Put one fat bead on each side with 1/8 7014 at 125 amps.

When I saw this thread I went out and gave each one a couple hard hits on the side with a 3 lb hammer. Solid as a rock like I knew they would be. You guys that hate 7014 really crack me up. The OP screwed up by using too small a rod at way too many amps.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #36  
I just welded hooks on the top corners of my bucket a few days ago. I used 3/8 clevis hooks from Harbor Freight, cut the clevis off, and ground the plating off. Put one fat bead on each side with 1/8 7014 at 125 amps.

When I saw this thread I went out and gave each one a couple hard hits on the side with a 3 lb hammer. Solid as a rock like I knew they would be. You guys that hate 7014 really crack me up. The OP screwed up by using too small a rod at way too many amps.

I'm a 7014 fan :)

I use all of them really, 6010/11,6013,7014,7024,7018, but I've always liked 7014 :thumbsup:

(Most of the reason I use them all is I get free rods on occasion and just use them up)
 
   / Need help welding hooks #37  
7014 isn't the best choice for welding lifting hooks on. It's not designed for dynamic loading for one thing. Nobody hates 7014. It has its uses but lifting hooks isn't going to be a recommended use for it. 6013 is disliked by lots of people though. I think there could be a problem if someone else were to use 7014 in an application that really calls for 7018. 7014 is easy to burn and leaves a real nice bead but it shouldn't be used for something like a lifting hook that could seriously injure someone if it broke. This is a prime example of why it's good to know the applications of different rods instead of just using what you have or following what someone else did. A lifting hook also isn't something a beginner should be welding until they get some experience.
 
   / Need help welding hooks #38  
   / Need help welding hooks #39  
ArcWeld - I'm not going to say 7018 isn't a great rod - it clearly is. May even be the best choice for the hooks as well.

I'm going to respectfully disagree that 7014 won't work for dynamic loading though and have attached two manufacturers intended uses for the rod - it would appear that some of those uses are dynamic.

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
   / Need help welding hooks #40  
Personally I wish you guys wouldn't beat on your hooks after welding!:thumbdown: Just load test them, and where no one could get hurt if the hook broke off.;)
I almost got killed years ago from a damaged padeye. It broke under load. I spent two weeks in the hospital, and missed 6-months work over it.
 

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