Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Need snow removal help

[speedyvelo]

Speedy,

Congratulations on your new tractor! I'm envious of the cab - at this time of year they look like a great idea.

I ALWAYS have the blade reversed and lowered all the way in the "float" position. Depending on the depth of snow, I may be done or I repeat the process. I have a gravel road which is why I always have the blade reversed - I don't want the cutting edge digging in to the gravel.

Gnawbone, Thxs.

If you see the picture of my tractor I have the rear blade like you said because. the only time I tried was easy to move forward with the blade in that position without getting stuck in the gravel. a couple of the member make me aware of the dangerous to damage the rear triangle with the blade in that position (THXS)and I assume that would be the case if I use it for pushing where the blade should be in reverse, but if I only move forward and I use it as a complement of the front blade may be OK. If I understand correctly that is how you do it.
In summary if I use the rear blade in reverse I should not use it to push, If I need to push snow I should turn the tractor around and push with the front blade. Does it make sense?
BTW my rear blade is very simple and it does not have a floating position like the front one.

 

[speedyvelo]

Don,

This year I will use the FEL, front blade and rear blade and try to learn in how to do it. I have plenty of great tips from this thread to try it. Also I need to recover ;-) not only for the tractor but also the building of the place to house it.

When I bought the tractor, I discussed the snowblower quite a lot with the dealer. These are some of the thoughts that I had then:

1. a rear push snowblower was out of the question because of the length of road to clear (1 miles). I though to use a rear camera but again not for that distance.

2. Except for two small areas I should be able with the front blade to clear the snow most of the time and the front blade would be faster than the snow blower (?)

3. These two small areas if they become a problem I can use the FEL.

4. The front blade together with a box scraper I got, would be a good combo to maintain the road during the warm season.

-=terry=-

 

[leonz]

View attachment 403885

I just got a Kubota B3350 with
Front loader 60" bucket
72 Hydraulic snow blade with a 3rd function valve
72 rear blade.

The dealer was excellent and spent many hours teaching me in how to drive the tractor (I have zero experience/knoledge of tractors)
I need to clear the snow in a little less than a mile dirt road, in the mountains, with some areas of steep grade so I can get the suv to the road.

Q1 how should I orient the rear blade? with the convex part forward of backward
Q2 how should angle the rear and the front blade?
Q3 the front blade has a pin that allow the blade to be fix like dozer blade or to be floating, I set it up floating for snow correct?


Please any tips very appreciated, even the more obvious to all of you are new to me.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of you.

-=terry=-

============================================================================

Can I assume you own a Velocet 2 wheeler???????????



I am glad to see he sold you some good logging mud and snow chains with chain tensioners.
He needs to come back and tighten the chains, They have to be tight and cannot be allowed
to slip!!!!!!!!!!!!

AND If He says they do not need to be tightened, I can and will call him and tell him
why-ring logging chains(chains for log skidders and road graders must be tight period!!!!!!!!!!

What is normally done is the tires are deflated slightly, the chains tightened to the last link
and locked, then and then the tires are inflated to operating pressure.


If the tires are not loaded you need to get them loaded with ballast weight as
soon as possible-use windshield washer fluid if at all possible or rim guard, not
calcium chloride!!!!!, as you have tubeless tires and the rims will rust.

What you need most is adhesion!
What you need most is adhesion!
What you need most is adhesion!
What you need most is adhesion!

In your wet snow conditions which are exactly like Stevens Pass and its Cascade Concrete,
California and its Sierra Cement and the heavy snow on The Cumbres and Toltec narrow gauge
railroad line you need power and mass to remove it.


I am not trying to spend your money my friend I want you to succeed!!!, not fail.


You just may find that it will be simpler to own both a front and rear mounted snow caster which
some land owners have for snow removal.

As Piloon mentioned you need to spend a lot of time pushing snow back while it is snowing too.

The chains will do two things for you; 1. remind you go slow and keep you from driving to fast as you will not have the mass and weight to push deep snows aside and; 2. the tractor will go sideways on you even with four wheel drive if it is deep enough with the blade plowing at an angle or you will get stuck.

Many owners have a snow caster on the rear and a front loader and they use the snow caster to remove snow banks after they push the piles back with the loader bucket.


Another issue is ice and ice control/removal did he talk to you about a spreader for salt and sand???

As I said I am not trying to spend your money I want you succeed!! not fail.


We have lots of winter left and I do not want you to have problems.

I wish I had a Mercedes Unimog and an 8 foot Pronovost snow blower to loan to you as you are new at this.

Unless Muhammad has changed the PM mail settings you will need post three times before you can send PM to a member.


Bonjour, Piloon mon ami

 

[Danny C]

Again, once the ground is frozen, you will have no problem pulling snow with the back blade as you drive forward. You may loose some loose materials from the top, but nothing significant. I start with one run down the middle with front blade and back blade square, then down the right on either side with the blades angled to the right taking about 1/2 - 3/4 a blade on each

 

[arrow]

Arrow, the restaurant most likely was the Black Forest Inn, the owner a German immigrant opened it many year before, it was famous and it was a place to treat yourself if you live in Denver, nice ride inside of the Canyon, great restaurant and great service. Then gambling came, the restaurant was in a top spot and the owner owned the land. He could have sold the property for many million dollars to the casino industry, but at the time they believed they could run the casino by themselves. They could not compete with the casino's pro and he went under. What a pity! He recovered and now has a similar restaurant in a not to distant town call Netherlands.

There are snakes in Colorado and there are rattles, they are not as posing as in the south, but it is a serious problem mainly for pets.

There are two town together, Central City and Black Hawk. Before gambling the top town was Central City that had the opera house, bars, and the "aliens" (aka people form another galaxy ;-)) , Black Hawk was more of a low key town with a couple of bars and the Black Forest Inn. Then gambling came and Black Hawks surge and Central City was basically absorbed by BH. Now there is only one town (administratively speaking). You will not recognized the area.

Those town were the center of silver/gold mine. If you go up, above Central city, you will find many tails of old mines. Every time gold goes up in value some will reopen.

If you go to Black Hawk from Golden/Denver you take 119/6 inside of the canyon, Black Hawk/Central City are in the left side, the mountain we are is about 2 miles before BH to the rigth of 119/6. We are at 9300 ft.

-=terry=-

Thanks Terry for the update. It seems unfortunate the "character" of the town has altered. Sorry to hear about the restaurant as I really liked it there.
I re-read this post and if I'm not mistaken, is it your intention to clear a miles worth of road from snow? If you got this tractor to do more than around the house, I think you are going to be really frustrated as the snow cover builds and you attempt to do the mile long road. You may enjoy it at first, but 5 or 6 storms in a row may change your mindset.To do a "mile" you really need something much larger such as a pickup with an 8' plow. I would consider this minimum. After all, you are in "snow country".....Or, hire someone to do the long part and you do the house.

Lou

 

[HEC]

Guys

Fantastic tips!! THXS

I have just added to my "master" manual that I am writing with all the tips about the tractor.

We are about 9000 ft and snow accumulation can be high, but of course not all years are the same. I have never used the FEL so I took notes of tips in how to use it.

In reference to the snowblower, I though initially to get one and the dealer told me to try first the front snowblade/FEL. The road is steep and heavy snow accumulates mainly in two small sessions of the road. If I need it they will deliver one to me. I can see the benefits of the snowblower (Hec, yours look great and brand new who made yours?). I did not know about rear mount snowblower, I can see the advantage of having the FEL attach, but also is a long road and nice to see what is a front, not a decision to make now.



-=terry=-

The blower is made by Kubota and does work very well . That being said if you could first try out a rear blower with a back up camera or using your mirrors along with what you have on front now that would be an awesome combination. I almost wish I would have gone that route so I could have a fel. on the tractor also . I have about 700 ft. plus a couple parking areas to take care of . I have a neck isue so it's hard for me to turn . I am forunate that I have the M5700 with a fel to use if I need a bucket . If I only had 1 tractor I wouldn't want to be without the use of a fel or the combination you have if needed . When I use the rear blade the mirrors work just great so I would imagine it would be the same for a rear blower providing you could keep the snow off them .

Jusy my opinion but I would not even consider a pull type blower with that light of a tractor . If you woke up some morning with 12 or more inches of snow on the ground or some high drifts you wouldn't be very happy camper .

 

[leonz]

I wanted to also tell you that I have a back up
camera on my truck and I absolutely love it as
my truck is hard to back up into parking spaces
without a helper/spouse

The Cab Cam Brand of camera is excellent and I am
on my third year with my units mounted front and rear.

As mentioned using mirrors and the camera become a huge help while working.

Essentially you are operating a forklift while backing with a camera and a rear
mounted snow caster and after a few minutes your simple act of steering
becomes second nature to you.



Back to the snow blowers:

Ken Sweet who is sponsor here on the forum
had several overstock snow called snow casters
he wanted to sell.

I am assuming your unit is a hydrostatic-automatic transmission tractor/mule:


The rear mounted blower is a much more efficient type of snow caster as it operates
at 540 RPM at the PTO engine speed.

The one benefit of the rear mounted snow caster is that
it acts like an anchor for you which allows you to stop with little effort
because of the snow blowers simply being pushed on the ground.

You should ask the dealer if he can put a swivel seat in your mule as this
will help tremendously with backing with the snow caster otherwise you
can twist your body in the seat and use your left foot to push the reverser
and simply raise your foot to stop with the snow caster on the ground.

You still have to use the parking brake if you leave the cab.


I want you to succeed not fail.

 

[doxford jim]

A little on my blower setup.

As others have said, the rear push blower is the most economical to buy and works well. That is what I use on my 1200 ft. plus 600 ft. driveway (two I clear) and I thought I would have problems going backwards. You soon get used to it and I find sitting sideways on the seat pretty much allows for reasonable operation. I don't find it a problem other than the fact that I have an open station tractor and end up covered in snow after each clearing and very cold.
For me my setup works just fine but I have a larger tractor at 55hp - anything smaller will find clearing a mile of driveway, very challenging.

I think it is worth mentioning that the pull type rear mounted blowers may not be that good if you have to go through snow drifts of 24" more. The tractor has to get through the drifts first before the blower can do it's job ! For me that would not be very practical and would test the tractor build/construction severely IMO.

A solution that might work for you would be the front mount blower (most expensive of the types) if you have the mid PTO to drive it. The rear blade would help as well of course.

The real beauty of the snow blower is the snow is blown off of the driveway into the bush and does not become a problem later on as the snow builds up. I also have a JD450 and find that the blower out performs the JD450. The blower is slower but does a better job. My equipment is old but it gets the job done. Have attached photo's of what I have to show you how it works. The blower works best with a minimum of 12" of snow or more - picture shows less than that hence the puny discharge plume which can reach 40' or more.

Hope this helps you with your situation.

Cheers

 

[s219]

BTW my rear blade is very simple and it does not have a floating position like the front one.
View attachment 404004

When you drop your 3-pt hitch all the way, any implement on there will "float", since the hitch provides no actual downforce. It's just the weight of the implement that holds it down, so it will be able to ride/float over terrain just like a front bucket would if you push the loader lever forward past the detent into float position. Almost all ground-engaging implements get used in a float position, allowing gravity to keep them in contact with the ground. Same for a rear blade being used to plow snow.

I don't expect your front plow has a float mechanism other than what would be provided by the front loader arms if you push the lever forward into float. Most likely it's actually a "trip" mechanism to prevent damage if the plow hits something immovable. And it can probably be locked for cases where you want the plow to be rigid, like when plowing loose soil, etc.

 

[HEC]

You are right Jim it will be some what of a challenge but being retired he may have the time to do it . His tractor with the right set up will be fine if time isn't a problem . We have had 2 large storms here already and I"ll grab the 2650 heated cab over the M5700 anyday . It usually takes me about 2 hrs. with the 5700 for a big storm and with the 2650 it isn't much longer than that . Other than both have blowers ,one has the fel and the other a back blade . If you can do 1000 ft. you can do 5000 ,it is just going take lots of time for those big storms .