Tires R4s are better in the snow than R3 turfs

[jonnmero]

This is one of the biggest myths in tractor tire chains of "falling between the cleats" If you make them "tight", they will do little to help your traction. They need to be loose as in "no tensioners" or at least loosened tensioners so the chains can "work" as they come around and make ground contact. When loosened, they look like they fall between lugs on top of the tire but coming around to make ground contact, a loosened chain will "hang" and will be the first thing to make ground contact.
Your larger problem is clearance. A big tire needs a big link (at least 3/8") to be effective. Without wheel spacers of some type, you may not be able to put this large a chain on your tractor. If indeed that is the case, then you need a smaller link and I would go to the previous recommendation of the Norwegian type chain.
The simplest chain for you would be the 2 link ladder If you can fit them on w/o hitting the tractor. Big tires usually mean expensive chain but 2 link ladders would mitigate some of the cost of going to more exotic designs.

The chains in the picture are 'floating chains' i.e. they fit relatively loosely around the tire, just tight enough not to fall off or hit the fenders or other on the tractor. I don't know if these are 'Norwegian chains', but from what I hear it is the local chain factory who invented the system. They are not produced here anymore as Norwegian salaries are way to high. But they still have a tremendous reputation, and are called Tellefsdal.

 

[arrow]

The chains in the picture are 'floating chains' i.e. they fit relatively loosely around the tire, just tight enough not to fall off or hit the fenders or other on the tractor. I don't know if these are 'Norwegian chains', but from what I hear it is the local chain factory who invented the system. They are not produced here anymore as Norwegian salaries are way to high. But they still have a tremendous reputation, and are called Tellefsdal.

Nice paint job on the Foton. Didn't even know what it was but what a nice color for that tractor. Yes , those chains are super effective especially on ice or hard pack.

 

[RoyJackson]

Sounds like you could use something similar to my KWB snow chains. Great on asphalt as well. They are Austrian, but I think (but can't guarantee) that they are available in North America as well. The circumferential part should help to avoid the chain falling in between the cleats.
View attachment 413942

Nice chains...couldn't find any US dealers though.

 

[check]

This is what I have (v-bars), but man are they rough on pavement!

 

[newt92]

For my uses on snow,

2305, I run HDAPs on the front and loaded ags on the rear. Tractor handles my 60" snow blade pretty good. First year I had this tractor I ran my R4s and tractor was just helpless..

2520, I run my R3s in the winter, they are amazing IMO, not loaded and use my loader and 6' rear blade. I used to use my R4s to which the rears are loaded, and found myself spinning all the time..

 

[jonnmero]

Nice chains...couldn't find any US dealers though.

Might be possible to get them directly from Austria? Or maybe find someone to import them?
They are also a cinch to get on, takes all of 5 minutes after the first fit.

 

[RoyJackson]

Might be possible to get them directly from Austria? Or maybe find someone to import them?
They are also a cinch to get on, takes all of 5 minutes after the first fit.

I think the shipping costs would be prohibitive.

 

[jonnmero]

I think the shipping costs would be prohibitive.

Paid about USD 700 equivalent for the rear wheel set. That included a 25% government penalty for buying anything. But the joy of good quality lingers long after the itch from the sting of a high price is forgotten Or something to that effect.

 

[Reg]

If you do it correctly you can arange the chains on the R4s so that they ride over the lugs and not in the valies. Granted they do not have as high a percentage of chain on the ground as R3s but you can have plenty enough if done right. I learned it the HARD way.

That doesn't work for very long, at least not on the 17.5Lx24 R4s on my small tractor.
Those wretched "laws of Fizzzix" INSIST on the chain finding the path of least resistance, i.e. they soon get knocked off the lugs, nestle down between them and STAY there and stay VERY SLACK.
I have a set of 18x20x44 R3s that I have put the same set of Peerless Duo chains on and there is no comparison, the R3s with chains work BETTER in snow and ice for GRIP.

I can often SHOVE snow better with the R4s, but this is because they are loaded with 1100 lbs or so of fluid. The R3s, as "turf" tires are for dry season, primarily mowing, so those aren't loaded.
1/2 ton of more weight to the ground makes a BIG difference to snow shoving.
1/2 ton LESS weight to the ground makes a similar BIG difference to lawn damage.
YMMV, etc.

 

[Reg]

This is one of the biggest myths in tractor tire chains of "falling between the cleats" If you make them "tight", they will do little to help your traction. They need to be loose as in "no tensioners" or at least loosened tensioners so the chains can "work" as they come around and make ground contact. When loosened, they look like they fall between lugs on top of the tire but coming around to make ground contact, a loosened chain will "hang" and will be the first thing to make ground contact.
Your larger problem is clearance. A big tire needs a big link (at least 3/8") to be effective. Without wheel spacers of some type, you may not be able to put this large a chain on your tractor. If indeed that is the case, then you need a smaller link but more cross chain (2 link).
The simplest chain for you would be the 2 link ladder If you can fit them on w/o hitting the tractor. There are designs that use a smaller link purposely for clearance problems. Big tires usually mean expensive chain but 2 link ladders would mitigate some of the cost of going to more exotic designs.

The REAL purpose of leaving chains slack, or "floating", is to enable them to self clear.

It has nothing to do with hoping that an imaginary loop will somehow jump out of the gap between lugs and magically find a lug peak to rest on for a few degrees of tire rotation.