NX4510 and NX5010 pricing and review

[GManBart]

I have anti gelling treatment in my Kioti and it still will not run if the temps are under 20 degrees. I got the heater from my dealer and was charged full price. Installed it myself outside, I think it was in the teens. Froze my but off installing it. Works fine. Ran the tractor for 30 minutes then parked it. Hydraulic leak with oil running everywhere. One of the steel tubes that connects to the pump cracked. Oil seeps out. I can run it for a few minutes but that's it. Now I'm looking at $400 to get it taken to my closest dealer 2 hours away. I would change it myself, but the engine oil check tube runs directly over top of the one bolt. You can only get to it with a small wrench and I don't want to strip it. Just majorly disappointed with this tractor.

Welcome to TBN

Since this thread is already way off track, you're probably be better off starting a new thread.

 

[murphy1244]

Getting back on track would be discussing NX pricing and reviews...no need to divert it into yet another topic.

Do you have to correct everybody?

 

[GManBart]

Do you have to correct everybody?

It's okay for you to tell everybody to get back on track to a third topic, but I can't suggest getting back to the actual thread topic?

Pot meet kettle.

 

[murphy1244]

It's okay for you to tell everybody to get back on track to a third topic, but I can't suggest getting back to the actual thread topic?

Pot meet kettle.

Time for this thread to be locked when it gets this far off track.

And always have the last word. kettle meat pot.

 

[GManBart]

And always have the last word. kettle meat pot.

I never suggested you try to get the last word, so that doesn't apply.

Suggesting this thread runs into a third or fourth topic is ridiculous.

 

[TSO]

Did somebody say MEAT? Great, now I'm hungry...

 

[TJP89]

Let's just dump the whole thread and move on.

 

[peterc38]

Let's just dump the whole thread and move on.

Seconded, this is a freak show.

 

[Threepoint]

Did you guys ever see this Kioti brochure: http://www.rtmachinery.co.uk/images/kioti/Kioti_NX_brochure.pdf

It shows the NX4510/5010 having the same engine as the DK45/50 while the NX5510/6010 have the newer engine. I presume it must be a brochure intended for the non USA market. It does have more engine detail than any of the US specific brochures.

Before we leave this thread, I just wanted to point out that the brochure linked to here by Island does not describe the NX4510HST Cab and NX5010HST Cab sold in the U.S. The U.S. models use the newer 3-cylinder engine described for the NX5510HST Cab and the NX6010HST Cab. When I was shopping for tractors early last year, the fact the Kioti had switched to 3-cylinders for the NX from the 4-cylinders in the DK series was initially off-putting. Until I heard the NX run and talked to a buddy who's a Kioti dealer in another part of the country. Wow, is it smooth and quiet.

 

[kapper]

I don't think It would have taken any longer with less power

Great video, although we never got to see the completed project. Took quite awhile to get it down. What tractor is that? Is it hst or shuttle? If that is the 45 hp hst, then I really can't wait to see what my nx6010 will do!!!:licking:

 

[IslandTractor]

Great video, although we never got to see the completed project. Took quite awhile to get it down. What tractor is that? Is it hst or shuttle? If that is the 45 hp hst, then I really can't wait to see what my nx6010 will do!!!:licking:

The tractor used to push over the tree is 42hp and lighter than a NX4510. Additionally, if you listen to the engine it sounds like it is barely if ever reaching PTO RPM. Pushing trees over is all about traction, leverage (height of FEL), weight of the tractor and patience. It helps to rip some roots before pushing. Horsepower plays a relatively small role. .

If you think a 60hp tractor is going to do that job any faster or better, you are mistaken. If you try to rev up the engine and ram away (like Eric the Wrecker would do) then you will break your tractor.

 

[kapper]

The tractor used to push over the tree is 42hp and lighter than a NX4510. Additionally, if you listen to the engine it sounds like it is barely if ever reaching PTO RPM. Pushing trees over is all about traction, leverage (height of FEL), weight of the tractor and patience. It helps to rip some roots before pushing. Horsepower plays a relatively small role. .

If you think a 60hp tractor is going to do that job any faster or better, you are mistaken. If you try to rev up the engine and ram away (like Eric the Wrecker would do) then you will break your tractor.

Good points, but I disagree that hp makes little difference. IF, you have enough weight, which transfers to good traction, then it is very logical to assert that the more hp that you can transfer to traction, the more power you will have. Just my 2 cents, but I think we've provided lots of fodder for folks looking at the CUT's between 40 and 60 hp.

 

[kapper]

By the way, that is just dang impressive for a 42 hp. I mentioned earlier that with the advancement of the technology and attachments etc that more and more cool attachments will keep coming out. Guess I just prefer having the insurance of the extra power on hand. Oh, and when you look at how he tried to 'pull' the tree in reverse at a slight angle, that is how I bent the loader . Except I had a chain hooked on, so it wouldn't release

 

[IslandTractor]

Good points, but I disagree that hp makes little difference. IF, you have enough weight, which transfers to good traction, then it is very logical to assert that the more hp that you can transfer to traction, the more power you will have. Just my 2 cents, but I think we've provided lots of fodder for folks looking at the CUT's between 40 and 60 hp.

Understood. In my experience when you are pushing on a tree the tractor's front wheels provide relatively little if any traction because they are lifted off the ground. In low range, I can spin the rear wheels when pushing on a tree so traction, not power, becomes the limiting factor. And, that is a good thing. CUT FELs are NOT designed or built to be battering rams. That's why bulldozers have short fat low "FEL" arms designed for pushing. If you happen to get more traction with bigger tires then you simply increase the risk of damaging the FEL. Weight and leverage are the way to work it. Power just causes trouble for this type of inherently abusive task.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The tractor used to push over the tree is 42hp and lighter than a NX4510. Additionally, if you listen to the engine it sounds like it is barely if ever reaching PTO RPM. Pushing trees over is all about traction, leverage (height of FEL), weight of the tractor and patience. It helps to rip some roots before pushing. Horsepower plays a relatively small role. .

If you think a 60hp tractor is going to do that job any faster or better, you are mistaken. If you try to rev up the engine and ram away (like Eric the Wrecker would do) then you will break your tractor.

Sadly, my post from last night was deleted.

I use chain saws to do the work of chain saws.

Kioti designed their NX series engines to last 20,000 hours, if that holds up, the only people ordering engines will be people restoring an NX series in 50 years for a museum.

Daedong does business as Kioti as in d/b/a

 

[IslandTractor]

Sadly, my post from last night was deleted.

I use chain saws to do the work of chain saws.

Kioti designed their NX series engines to last 20,000 hours, if that holds up, the only people ordering engines will be people restoring an NX series in 50 years for a museum.

Daedong does business as Kioti as in d/b/a

Pushing over trees instead of cutting them down can be very efficient. If you use a chainsaw, you are left with the stump and root ball to deal with and little or no leverage to get them out without a lot of digging.

My favored technique is to mount the BH with ripper and grapple. Use the ripper to tear up roots on both sides and the use the grapple up about 8 feet off the ground to push. Typically the tractor starts to "climb" the tree and that's fine for a foot or so. It usually tilts the tree over a bit. Then back off, reposition and give another little shove. Sometimes move 30 degrees or so and push a different direction. At some point the root ball will start to show it's outline. Then use the grapple to dig into it and curl a bit. Then back to the trunk. Sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. With experience the "tipping point" is easy to recognize and at that point just make sure the root ball isn't going to come up under the tractor while you finish. The whole tree can then be lifted in the grapple if the area is clear or otherwise just grab the root ball from the base and drag it to a clearing where it can be either cut up or carried away. Pretty efficient way of dealing with trees up to about a foot or so in diameter at the base. WAY less work and mess than cutting down the tree and then digging out the stump. Much cleaner too. The hole is about a third the size of what you end up with if you dig the stump out.

(Of course if you spent all your budget on horsepower, you won't have enough to get a BH and ripper. )

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Pushing over trees instead of cutting them down can be very efficient.

[snip]

Try to avoid killing yourself with a falling branch from the tree your knocking over.

 

[IslandTractor]

Try to avoid killing yourself with a falling branch from the tree your knocking over.

Yep. Don't try to knock over big dead trees. Good point.

 

[TSO]

Try to avoid killing yourself with a falling branch from the tree your knocking over.

my cab actually saved my bacon once or twice this year from that happening, inadvertently when I ran into my dead tree I was working around.

 

[murphy1244]

my cab actually saved my bacon once or twice this year from that happening, inadvertently when I ran into my dead tree I was working around.

Talk about a hard hat area. Ouch!