New (to me) YM240D

[woolyAcres]

If you want to replace the valve, I would look at Cross 2 Spool Joystick Hydraulic Control Valve | eBay (I just bought one of these ones) or New Prince Hydraulic Valve for Loader with Joystick Kit Connection Kit | eBay
I paid $118 (shipped) for the first one and it should be here this week.

Aaron Z

Thanks. I'm going to get my most leaking cylinder fixed and then look into a new valve. One problem at a time you might say.

 

[clemsonfor]

The lever to the left by your foot is the pto. I has e a three speed cause I have grey but on it down is 540 and up is like 750 then 1040 or whatever.

On the right side behind you heel is the diff lock. You step on out down to engage the diff lock. It may take a few seconds for it to lock in though. Dont hit if your spinning a tire though.

Oh even with the work I did my three point will still drop down when off. Just nature of the beast. Its a worn valve.

 

[Todd8665]

@California-

Thanks for your latest post. I think I'll start by removing the worst cylinder and seeing if I can rebuild it. I really just want to get this loader to work well enough to move those piles of dirt, knowing full well I won't be filling that giant bucket. Once I convince myself (and wife) this tractor/FEL are worth having around, I'll have more interest, time, money, motivation to rework it. My loader projects (at least near-term) are nearly all material moving - dirt, mulch, gravel, manure, etc.

I'm hopeful I can turn that rear-mount PTO driven pump into some money for redoing the loader components. I have no idea how far I'll get with that but we'll see.

Thankfully my loader valve and 3PT lift-lever are both on the right side of the tractor so it's pretty unlikely that I'd operate both at the same causing damage to the valve. I really like your suggestion of using the front pump to run the loader. I looked over the front pto link you posted above. The only thing that looked similar was the cut-out in my hood. I suppose that gives room to open the hood even when there's a shaft sticking beyond the front bumper. My pump is actually mounted directly below the battery, completely within the footprint of the tractor so there's no interference with the hood. I need to figure out how to connect that to the shaft sticking forward from the engine and then make use of that for the loader.

Regarding the SSQA style, you're certainly right that these are light tractors. My argument is that by removing the bucket for lifting something like your water tank I could pick up an extra 150#. Though the same could probably be done with a pin-on bucket. However, sharing pallet forks, even if I couldn't pick up half what the big machine can lift, would be pretty handy. Sharing some stuff with the bigger machine would be really helpful but I'm not sure that 5' brush hog can be shared. That gave my tractor all it could handle during my test at lunch.

Sniff Sniff, do i smell a hint of discouragement - buyers remorse(been there). Keep putting in the good fight! You paid $2,400 for this tractor, not $30,000. Rome was not built built in a day and your used tractor might not be 100% useful in a month, but have no fear you can make it happen and work!

 

[woolyAcres]

One last point re loader valves:
Be sure it has optional 'float' feature. You push the down lever full forward, and the bucket is free to rise and fall as you drag it backward over rough ground. This is the best way to level uneven ground, especially material you just dumped.

I'm a bit confused. I only have on loader for reference- the LA16 on my father's tractor. I'm not sure I know the right terms, but if you use the joystick to lower the lift arms, even below resting on the ground, the loader arms will lift the front wheels off the ground. Though I can't recall doing it, if I were to go backwards while holding the control in this position I believe it would simply start lifting the front wheels. Now if I were to use the joystick to 'dump' the buck as far as possible I don't know if that would allow it to float.

Just to be clear, you are talking about putting one of the two sets of cylinders into it's 'end case' and holding it there. I suppose it depends if the valve has this feature but in your case, which function is that on, raising and lowering the arms, or curling/dumping the bucket?

 

[woolyAcres]

The lever to the left by your foot is the pto. I has e a three speed cause I have grey but on it down is 540 and up is like 750 then 1040 or whatever.

On the right side behind you heel is the diff lock. You step on out down to engage the diff lock. It may take a few seconds for it to lock in though. Dont hit if your spinning a tire though.

Okay. Thanks. Does moving one of these (say the PTO lever) cause the diff lock lever to move and vice versa? Mine seem to sorta go together which doesn't seem quite right.

 

[woolyAcres]

Sniff Sniff, do i smell a hint of discouragement - buyers remorse(been there). Keep putting in the good fight! You paid $2,400 for this tractor, not $30,000. Rome was not built built in a day and your used tractor might not be 100% useful in a month, but have no fear you can make it happen and work!

No buyer's remorse (yet). I knew for $2400 ($2300 actually, but I've got a $100 set aside for an HF QuickHitch), I'd have my share of issues. I probably sound a be frenetic because I'm trying to triage the situation- which things need attention and in which order. Not to mention the confusion that rear PTO has caused- is it worth something, what exactly is it, how do I use that to make the existing loader more useful, etc.

I appreciate the encouragement and all the input in helping me get it up to a solid worker.

 

[aczlan]

I'm a bit confused. I only have on loader for reference- the LA16 on my father's tractor. I'm not sure I know the right terms, but if you use the joystick to lower the lift arms, even below resting on the ground, the loader arms will lift the front wheels off the ground. Though I can't recall doing it, if I were to go backwards while holding the control in this position I believe it would simply start lifting the front wheels. Now if I were to use the joystick to 'dump' the buck as far as possible I don't know if that would allow it to float.

Just to be clear, you are talking about putting one of the two sets of cylinders into it's 'end case' and holding it there. I suppose it depends if the valve has this feature but in your case, which function is that on, raising and lowering the arms, or curling/dumping the bucket?

What float will do is connect the two sides of the cylinder together. If you do it with the bucket above the ground, it will slowly sink to the ground. Normally, you push the lever to lower the bucket past the "stop" and it "sticks" in that mode.
See this video:

Float is generally found in the same direction as the lower function on your hydrualic valve.

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

Okay. Thanks. Does moving one of these (say the PTO lever) cause the diff lock lever to move and vice versa? Mine seem to sorta go together which doesn't seem quite right.

Shouldn't. They should be independent.

Aaron Z

 

[duanew1]

I agree, I should have no problem lifting this. Do you have any trouble running yours? I think the YM2001 and the YM240 should be pretty similar. Mine is a 2-cylinder and I believe yours is 3 but the HP should be close.

I have not had any problems with mine yet. I have only been clearing brush that is as tall as I am so far. Therefore I have been traveling pretty slow. I have not tried to cut grass at a fast pace yet. So far I have not done anything that has slowed the engine. This includes using a large box blade. I have only had the tractor a few months.

 

[woolyAcres]

@Aaron Z-

Thanks for the link to the video. That explained it very well. I'm really not sure if the NH loader has that function. I've certainly never used it! I'll have to look. It certainly seems like something worth paying for if/when I redo the loader controls.