New (to me) YM240D

   / New (to me) YM240D
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Shouldn't. They should be independent.

Aaron Z

That's what I thought. I'll have to look at why mine seem move together. Frankly neither moves very much. I'll have to investigate this further. I'd like to say that if I step on my diff lock the PTO jumps out but I'm not actually sure that's what happened to me today.
 
   / New (to me) YM240D #42  
Does moving one of these (say the PTO lever) cause the diff lock lever to move and vice versa? Mine seem to sorta go together which doesn't seem quite right.
I don't see how the difflock and PTO shifters could be related. But the transmission internals are pretty compact, maybe one shaft runs through another hollow one or something.

Hoye has better parts diagrams for YM2000 than YM240. Take a look at this one:
Yanmar Tractor Parts: TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL

The difflock is a strange design. Step on the lever and the rollpin climbs the slope up out of a V, forcing the shift fork to move toward the right side of the tractor. The fork moves a gear to the right so it engages face to face with a similar gear.

Per that parts diagram I don't see the pto shift lever coming in from the left, or its shifter fork.
Added: they are on the Shift Levers page.
Comparing those two diagrams, maybe the two shafts meet at the middle.


I don't see any sign of discouragement, or reason for such. From what I've seen ALL the US Yanmars look thrashed like this after going through several owners. But the fundamental quality and simplicity of repair is such that minor reconditioning will put them in good shape again. Heck the prior owners obviously kept running them long past the need for maintenance became obvious, this didn't seem to hurt anything expensive.

My YM240 looked about the same, a bashed headlight, stuck brake, dash warning lights dangling down by my knee. Worst problem was hard starting but I'm pretty sure why - The seller had an old rusty farm diesel tank at his 'farm' which had been subdivided from real farm into suburban acre horsey places. The fuel in the tractor burned my eyes so bad it must have been pre-1996 high sulphur diesel, it might have been fermenting in that farm tank for 20 years. It didn't occur to the seller that bad fuel was his cause for hard starting, in fact he had burned up a starter and put a bogus local handyman 'rebuilt' starter on it. Finishing that ancient fuel and starting a tank of fresh diesel made a night to day difference in starting and fumes. I later bought a $100 Ebay starter and the thing cranks furiously, starts instantly now.

I didn't buy any serious problems, just nuisance stuff that doing proper maintenance resolved. Yours sounds about the same.

The loader cylinder issues are to be expected on something that old. I've repacked 2 of 4 cylinders and replaced half my hoses, just normal maintenance on 35 year old hydraulics. I don't see anything about your rig to be concerned about, it was priced to reflect that it needs several hundred $ of restoration before putting it into troublefree service. Still cheaper and better quality compared to what's out there near-new.
 
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   / New (to me) YM240D #43  
if you use the joystick to lower the lift arms, even below resting on the ground, the loader arms will lift the front wheels off the ground. Though I can't recall doing it, if I were to go backwards while holding the control in this position I believe it would simply start lifting the front wheels.
Read some of the ads for valves. Float is a second forward position beyond 'down', and it lets fluid pass through the valve without controlling it.

Try this on both your tractors: curl the bucket forward and lift the front axle off the ground. Then push the 'down' control farther beyond 'down'. If you have 'float' the tractor will fall back to earth as the fluid bypasses.

Backdragging using float gives better smoothing than a box blade can do, at least in the hands of amateurs. (Example). The bucket floor should be near level to do this; smoothing similar to a concrete-finishing trowel.
 
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   / New (to me) YM240D
  • Thread Starter
#45  
I don't see how the difflock and PTO shifters could be related. But the transmission internals are pretty compact, maybe one shaft runs through another hollow one or something.

Hoye has better parts diagrams for YM2000 than YM240. Take a look at this one:
Yanmar Tractor Parts: TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL
I don't either. I'll have to sit down with the drawings you linked to and get my head around that. When I get back home (to where the tractor is) I can hopefully pay closer attention to what it is actually doing and maybe figure out why. Thanks for the links. Maybe my Shop Manual will be waiting for me when I get home.

I don't see any sign of discouragement, or reason for such. From what I've seen ALL the US Yanmars look thrashed like this after going through several owners. But the fundamental quality and simplicity of repair is such that minor reconditioning will put them in good shape again. Heck the prior owners obviously kept running them long past the need for maintenance became obvious, this didn't seem to hurt anything expensive.

My YM240 looked about the same, a bashed headlight, stuck brake, dash warning lights dangling down by my knee. Worst problem was hard starting but I'm pretty sure why - The seller had an old rusty farm diesel tank at his 'farm' which had been subdivided from real farm into suburban acre horsey places. The fuel in the tractor burned my eyes so bad it must have been pre-1996 high sulphur diesel, it might have been fermenting in that farm tank for 20 years. It didn't occur to the seller that bad fuel was his cause for hard starting, in fact he had burned up a starter and put a bogus local handyman 'rebuilt' starter on it. Finishing that ancient fuel and starting a tank of fresh diesel made a night to day difference in starting and fumes. I later bought a $100 Ebay starter and the thing cranks furiously, starts instantly now.

I didn't buy any serious problems, just nuisance stuff that doing proper maintenance resolved. Yours sounds about the same.

The loader cylinder issues are to be expected on something that old. I've repacked 2 of 4 cylinders and replaced half my hoses, just normal maintenance on 35 year old hydraulics. I don't see anything about your rig to be concerned about, it was priced to reflect that it needs several hundred $ of restoration before putting it into troublefree service. Still cheaper and better quality compared to what's out there near-new.

You pretty much nailed it. I'm eager to put this machine to work but before she's a reliable go-getter, it's going to take some learning, some TLC, a bit of money, and some patience (mine and your's :eek:).
 
   / New (to me) YM240D #47  
I believe the pto lever rotates on the end of the differential lock shaft. If it is frozen up on there that is likely the reason your pto may change when stepping on the differential pedal. Make sense?
 
   / New (to me) YM240D
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I believe the pto lever rotates on the end of the differential lock shaft. If it is frozen up on there that is likely the reason your pto may change when stepping on the differential pedal. Make sense?
Makes perfect sense. I need to look at the spot where the PTO lever rotates around the end of the diff-lock shaft as well as the PTO linkage. It doesn't feel like I'm getting solid engagement when I select a specific PTO setting. Thanks.
 
   / New (to me) YM240D #50  
Okay. Thanks. Does moving one of these (say the PTO lever) cause the diff lock lever to move and vice versa? Mine seem to sorta go together which doesn't seem quite right.

Just like AZ said mine are not. they go two totally different functions. The PTo lever engages the shaft to slide the pto gear into place to turn the shaft. The Diff lock slides and pin into place that locks the two gears for each axle shaft togeather to turn in unison. If the shaft is stuck engaged all that should happen is both rears are locked togeather...like a truck with a rear locker. Not good but its fixible...and just probably something that needs to be freed up. I am not sure when thye move togeather unless the Diff lock shaft is disconected internally and somehow contacting the shaft for the pto or something but the pto gears i beleive are rearward of where the diff lock shft would even be if it were disconnected internally? Like i said if i were in a field and about to go through deep mud if i were to step on diff lock it may or may not go right down and engage, it has to mesh up with the correct "cog" for discriptive purposes...most likely it would miss a few and you could feel it pulse or hop as it kind of skipped over the engagement places maybe once before it engaged.
 

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