LPGS For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

Got the 2 1/2" square tube for the 3PH frame all cut yesterday, including the caps for the tubes which I cut out of a 10 gauge drop I had lying around:

Also got the 6" x 10" x 1/4" "extensions" for the side plates trimmed to size:

May work on trimming down the 6" x 3 1/2" angle to 4" x 3 1/2" and splitting the drops into flats (6" x 1/2" and 3" x 1/2") today.

Looked at my Woods box blade yesterday and 1/2" thick material is what they used for the pin mounts on the 3PH hook up so I'll probably use the 3" x 1/2" for that.

 

[aerolland]

No particular plans to "cheap out" ... but I am going to shop for the best value I can find.

If I'm going to pay real money for cutting edges, my inclination is to go with flat industrial cutting edges which are reversible.

It appears there is a guy (wholesalepartsjim) out of Woodland, GA that has a business (Wholesale Ground Engaging Tools) that sells new bolt-on cutting edges for a variety of different industrial equipment for sale on Fleabay. Dunno where they were made or what the quality is tho' ...

I have to figure that anything that is intended for industrial use is probably going to be better in terms of quality, than whatever I could pick up for a box blade from a box store (TSC, Rural King, etc.)

Here's one that I'm looking at:

Case R44592 Center Edge, that is 5/8" thick, 6" wide and 71.75" long,12-bolt-nut

Will probably continue to explore other options as well.


I figured you would be onboard ...

Check these guys out: Search Results for cutting edge : Rural King

That's where I was planning to get my cutting edges - shipping for a 6' came in less than $20. You will still have to get the bolt assemblies, but they are reasonable. I would assume shipping would not skyrocket the more you add to your order, but you know what they say about assuming...

EDIT:

I put 2 in the checkout cart and shipping jumped to LTL freight for $150. My suggestion would be to make 2 separate orders if you go with them as a supplier.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I bought mine the first two 8'x6"x5/8 thick with holes on 12" centers USA made from Cat were $190+sales tax from the dealer. The last one with the same dimensions was Canadian made from my Deere dealer a few years later about $198+tax. No shipping charges.

Hard to tell if any of these has worn any yet. It took a few years for them to feel sharp.

 

[rswyan]

Got bevels ground on the square tube for the 3PH frame for the LPGS, got the tube laid out and fitted up, and got it tacked together:

Probably weld it up today (so it can be moved without coming apart) and then work on cutting the angle.

 

[rswyan]

Check these guys out: Search Results for cutting edge : Rural King

Yup, I did ...

That's where I was planning to get my cutting edges - shipping for a 6' came in less than $20.

Definitely reasonable.

You will still have to get the bolt assemblies, but they are reasonable. I would assume shipping would not skyrocket the more you add to your order, but you know what they say about assuming...

EDIT:

I put 2 in the checkout cart and shipping jumped to LTL freight for $150. My suggestion would be to make 2 separate orders if you go with them as a supplier.

Yeah ... my problem is that they don't list any specs for the parts, beyond just the length/weight.

How thick are these cutting edges ?

What kind of steel ?

Hardened ?

I would assume that they are flat and not curved ... but then again that's an assumption.

I have the number for the factory for King Kutter (up in the shop) so it might worth a call to find out.

 

[rswyan]

When I bought mine the first two 8'x6"x5/8 thick with holes on 12" centers USA made from Cat were $190+sales tax from the dealer.

If that price was for two and not for one, that seems pretty reasonable to me.

The last one with the same dimensions was Canadian made from my Deere dealer a few years later about $198+tax. No shipping charges.

Hard to tell if any of these has worn any yet. It took a few years for them to feel sharp.

:thumbsup:

The cutting edges on my Woods GB60 both have visible wear ... the edges curve upwards at the outside ...

 

[rswyan]

Got the tubes on the 3PH all welded together today.

Also got one of the drops of that big angle split and cut the four tabs for the lower hitch points and got them drilled.

Tomorrow I'll get those welded on and probably stick the caps on the ends of the tubes.

Was tired so I knocked off early.

 

[jenkinsph]

In the picture above why is the rear long cross member lower than the front one? It is important to design for the least amount of twisting as possible. To plane well you need it to be as ridged as possible.

 

[rswyan]

In the picture above why is the rear long cross member lower than the front one?

Because the front cross member on sits on a pair of risers made out of 2 1/2" square tube that are 2 1/2" high ...

It is important to design for the least amount of twisting as possible. To plane well you need it to be as ridged as possible.

No doubt.

 

[jenkinsph]

Yup, I did ...


Definitely reasonable.


Yeah ... my problem is that they don't list any specs for the parts, beyond just the length/weight.

How thick are these cutting edges ?

What kind of steel ?

Hardened ?

I would assume that they are flat and not curved ... but then again that's an assumption.

I have the number for the factory for King Kutter (up in the shop) so it might worth a call to find out.

I stopped by my dealer today and looked at a few light box blades and felt the blades, pretty thin imo.

 

[rswyan]

I stopped by my dealer today and looked at a few light box blades and felt the blades, pretty thin imo.

That would have been my guess.

The cutting edges I saw at Southeastern were pretty substantial.

 

[ovrszd]

And in a tool like this where you want weight, I'd want it in the cutting edges where wear control is an issue. No sense building with light duty edges and then adding chassis weight to reach the goal.

 

[rswyan]

Tabs for lower hitch pins fitted up and welded on.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I just found this thread and only have skimmed the first and last page. Need to read the rest of them soon but it looks like you are only at the top frame portion of the build. I'm sure you have thought about straight vs angled blades. When I built mine I went with straight for the simplicity. A year and a half later, I'm planning on building an angled set later this summer to try and see if I like the results better. It has a tendency to skip/bounce thru some of the potholes that I don't think it would do if it had angled blades. Mind you, it's only 3' wide so I can leave the grass strip in the middle so I know that's part of the problem.

Build thread here for how I did it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/320911-lpgs-build.html

 

[rswyan]

I just found this thread and only have skimmed the first and last page. Need to read the rest of them soon but it looks like you are only at the top frame portion of the build.

In terms of welding and putting things together, yes ...

But I have started working on other portions of it (tailgate, blade carriers, etc.)

I'm sure you have thought about straight vs angled blades.

Yup. Going with straight.

When I built mine I went with straight for the simplicity. A year and a half later, I'm planning on building an angled set later this summer to try and see if I like the results better. It has a tendency to skip/bounce thru some of the potholes that I don't think it would do if it had angled blades. Mind you, it's only 3' wide so I can leave the grass strip in the middle so I know that's part of the problem.

Right.

Build thread here for how I did it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/320911-lpgs-build.html

Yup ... yours was one of the ones I reviewed while in the process of doing this one.

In fact, I had scoped it earlier and even commented a couple of times ...

 

[rswyan]

Got 5 of the caps for the square tubes tacked/partially welded on yesterday ... despite spending most of the day screwing with fuel system problems on the Simplicity CFC 18 Front Cut and having to run into Kromehard Twist Drill to pick up a new snagging wheel.

I actually miscounted originally ... there are 7 tube ends that need capped not 5, so I'll have to cut a couple more.

Also got the flats for the top link attachment point cut and drilled and started to remove the paint from them so they can be welded on.

Since it's a little chilly today I think I'll start a fire in the double barrel stove and just burn the paint off 'em in that, rather than waste the propane.

Dunno what they used for paint but there's two coats of it and it's pretty tough.

 

[rswyan]

Also got signed up for an Onshape account and watched the first tutorial.

After some thought I modified the location of the tailgate, moving it further forward on the side plates so that there is about 5" of "box" to capture material when pushing rearward.

 

[rswyan]

Neighbor who is the heavy equipment mechanic came down the other evening and said he hadn't had any luck coming up with used cutting edges but that he would keep looking.

Had some discussion on grader blade cutting edges being non-reversible and he seemed to think that on their stuff (Komatsu) the cutting edges were reversible.

 

[Leejohn]

I have 2 that I have made, one about 7' wide and the other is 4 1/2' wide. Both have 4 crosses 2 on a angle and the back 2 stright. The 2 front ones have old grader blades turn around so the edge well cut better with the angle iron at 45 deg. I set the 3pt hook up to float and use the 3pt to do my adjusting while gradeing. I added 1' of skid plate after the last cross and as I get to the end I raise the 3pt up slow until it rides up on the 1' add on. That way I leave no piles, also the 1' add ons are turned up a little. I also made places to mount weights when I need to.

 

[FredH]

The one I made a few years ago , I used 12" I beam from a hitch off a moble home I think ?? ( it was in the scrap yard , So I bought it ) . Added 1/4" plate on the inside to create a flat surface . Used 3/8" x 3.5" x 3.5" angle for the blade mounts . Blades are angled back at around a 25 degree angle and angled from side to side at something similar I think . Blades angle opposite of each other when looking from front to back . For Blades , I used 1/2" x 6" stock . Did not even grind the edge . Driveway is shale at over 800 feet long . I run it up the driveway maybe 3 or 4 times a year , make around 8 to 10 passes during each of those outings . Have barely wore off the rust on the flat steel that I used for the blades . Move Rock ? Well Blades are only set for a 1/2" depth and that is the most I will run . Tried 1" and tractor did not want to pull all that rock up the 14% grade at top of driveway .

Not sure what it all weighs , but You know it when You pick it up with the TC30 . I have added a 2' piece of chain link fenching at the back as a sort of " Drag " , that takes out any minor sort of rock clump .




Fred H.