LPGS For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

I stopped by my dealer today and looked at a few light box blades and felt the blades, pretty thin imo.

That would have been my guess.

The cutting edges I saw at Southeastern were pretty substantial.

 

[ovrszd]

And in a tool like this where you want weight, I'd want it in the cutting edges where wear control is an issue. No sense building with light duty edges and then adding chassis weight to reach the goal.

 

[rswyan]

Tabs for lower hitch pins fitted up and welded on.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I just found this thread and only have skimmed the first and last page. Need to read the rest of them soon but it looks like you are only at the top frame portion of the build. I'm sure you have thought about straight vs angled blades. When I built mine I went with straight for the simplicity. A year and a half later, I'm planning on building an angled set later this summer to try and see if I like the results better. It has a tendency to skip/bounce thru some of the potholes that I don't think it would do if it had angled blades. Mind you, it's only 3' wide so I can leave the grass strip in the middle so I know that's part of the problem.

Build thread here for how I did it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/320911-lpgs-build.html

 

[rswyan]

I just found this thread and only have skimmed the first and last page. Need to read the rest of them soon but it looks like you are only at the top frame portion of the build.

In terms of welding and putting things together, yes ...

But I have started working on other portions of it (tailgate, blade carriers, etc.)

I'm sure you have thought about straight vs angled blades.

Yup. Going with straight.

When I built mine I went with straight for the simplicity. A year and a half later, I'm planning on building an angled set later this summer to try and see if I like the results better. It has a tendency to skip/bounce thru some of the potholes that I don't think it would do if it had angled blades. Mind you, it's only 3' wide so I can leave the grass strip in the middle so I know that's part of the problem.

Right.

Build thread here for how I did it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/320911-lpgs-build.html

Yup ... yours was one of the ones I reviewed while in the process of doing this one.

In fact, I had scoped it earlier and even commented a couple of times ...

 

[rswyan]

Got 5 of the caps for the square tubes tacked/partially welded on yesterday ... despite spending most of the day screwing with fuel system problems on the Simplicity CFC 18 Front Cut and having to run into Kromehard Twist Drill to pick up a new snagging wheel.

I actually miscounted originally ... there are 7 tube ends that need capped not 5, so I'll have to cut a couple more.

Also got the flats for the top link attachment point cut and drilled and started to remove the paint from them so they can be welded on.

Since it's a little chilly today I think I'll start a fire in the double barrel stove and just burn the paint off 'em in that, rather than waste the propane.

Dunno what they used for paint but there's two coats of it and it's pretty tough.

 

[rswyan]

Also got signed up for an Onshape account and watched the first tutorial.

After some thought I modified the location of the tailgate, moving it further forward on the side plates so that there is about 5" of "box" to capture material when pushing rearward.

 

[rswyan]

Neighbor who is the heavy equipment mechanic came down the other evening and said he hadn't had any luck coming up with used cutting edges but that he would keep looking.

Had some discussion on grader blade cutting edges being non-reversible and he seemed to think that on their stuff (Komatsu) the cutting edges were reversible.

 

[Leejohn]

I have 2 that I have made, one about 7' wide and the other is 4 1/2' wide. Both have 4 crosses 2 on a angle and the back 2 stright. The 2 front ones have old grader blades turn around so the edge well cut better with the angle iron at 45 deg. I set the 3pt hook up to float and use the 3pt to do my adjusting while gradeing. I added 1' of skid plate after the last cross and as I get to the end I raise the 3pt up slow until it rides up on the 1' add on. That way I leave no piles, also the 1' add ons are turned up a little. I also made places to mount weights when I need to.

 

[FredH]

The one I made a few years ago , I used 12" I beam from a hitch off a moble home I think ?? ( it was in the scrap yard , So I bought it ) . Added 1/4" plate on the inside to create a flat surface . Used 3/8" x 3.5" x 3.5" angle for the blade mounts . Blades are angled back at around a 25 degree angle and angled from side to side at something similar I think . Blades angle opposite of each other when looking from front to back . For Blades , I used 1/2" x 6" stock . Did not even grind the edge . Driveway is shale at over 800 feet long . I run it up the driveway maybe 3 or 4 times a year , make around 8 to 10 passes during each of those outings . Have barely wore off the rust on the flat steel that I used for the blades . Move Rock ? Well Blades are only set for a 1/2" depth and that is the most I will run . Tried 1" and tractor did not want to pull all that rock up the 14% grade at top of driveway .

Not sure what it all weighs , but You know it when You pick it up with the TC30 . I have added a 2' piece of chain link fenching at the back as a sort of " Drag " , that takes out any minor sort of rock clump .




Fred H.