Band Saw vs Abrasive Chop Saw

[scdeerslayer]

Never even crossed my mind there could be a difference in speed. Guess I got a blade I can't use because the saw I want to get is a different size. Sure would like to try the blade out before buying the saw though.

 

[BukitCase]

Slayer, if it helps here's my experience on this -

'bout 10 years ago I found a 14" dry cut blade at Hazard Fraught - saw the speed rating, still wanted to know if it'd work, bought it on sale for $35 IIRC, went home, put it on a Ryobi chop saw (the fiber blade kind, around 5500 rpm) - put on my heaviest leathers, face shield, etc, then stood out of line with the blade as much as possible, cut some .120" wall 2" square tube - worked FANTASTIC - clean cuts, quick, accurate, etc...

Same with the next 20-25 cuts, then started slowing down (not the saw, the cuts), having to push harder, etc - by about 40 cuts it was DONE. Meantime, the leathers proved to be a good idea (within a BAD idea ) - between running too fast and being Hazard Fraught the blade lost a few carbide teeth, couple lodged in my leathers...

I did go back to HF for "one more time", but those blades were GONE and I never saw 'em again.

I STILL don't have a dry cut saw, (retired now, smaller "toy fund") but when I do it'll be the better model Evolution. Stronger base, better vise, less "homeowner" gimmicks. It's this one - note the better price in SECOND link...

Evolution Power Tools EVOSAW38 15-Inch Steel Cutting Chop Saw - Power Circular Saws - Amazon.com

Evolution EVOSAW38 | Evolution Power Tools | Evolution 15

I "kicked the tires" on one at my local dealer (they wanted $470 for it and wouldn't come down) - unlike a few others I've seen, NOTHING about it seemed "homeownerish", just a solid tool... Steve

BTW, I think that if a HF blade running at 3 TIMES its optimum speed in a so-so Ryobi saw lasts for 30 cuts, a REAL blade on a REAL saw at CORRECT speed with a GOOD hold-down system should be a LOT longer-lived...

 

[scdeerslayer]

I got a project that will probably require 8-12 mitre cuts, so I may just go ahead and try it, making sure I stand to the side when cutting. Thanks for the input.

 

[BukitCase]

You're welcome; 'nuther warning - gentle to medium STEADY pressure, and if your hold-down setup isn't fort knox, maybe add a welding clamp so the piece DOESN'T MOVE - binding will dislodge MORE carbides... Steve

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

BukitCase - your second saw link at discount steel is where I bought mine.

They also had the best deal on 15" replacement blades too.

 

[yomax4]

Started with a Makita chop saw and it did what I needed for tubing and light angle.. Moved to a small Ellis bandsaw it was heaven. Then I did some horse trading with another Rep and got an Evoulution Comnpound Mitre metal saw. I use it for wood and quick mitre cuts on aluminum and steel. I like both equally but would have no problem going back to a chop saw if space and need demanded. But if you cut 1/4" or thicker steel, You will have your work cut out for you with a chop saw. Buy a lot of blades and plan to spend some time with them.

 

[SpringHollow]

Carl, I got a reconditioned Skilsaw metal cutting saw for around $100. The saw is great. I like it much more than the Milwaukwee.

SKILSAW SPT78MMC-�1 15 Amp Outlaw Worm Drive Saw for Metal, 8" - - Amazon.com

Hard to cut small stuff accurately with it but I will make a raised track to let it run on for things like that. I hate using an abrasive saw. The Skilsaw is my go to method right now for straight cutting plate. I like it better than plasma. I like my horizontal bandsaw for things small enough to fit in its vise.

Ken

 

[dragoneggs]

Slayer, if it helps here's my experience on this -

'bout 10 years ago I found a 14" dry cut blade at Hazard Fraught - saw the speed rating, still wanted to know if it'd work, bought it on sale for $35 IIRC, went home, put it on a Ryobi chop saw (the fiber blade kind, around 5500 rpm) - put on my heaviest leathers, face shield, etc, then stood out of line with the blade as much as possible, cut some .120" wall 2" square tube - worked FANTASTIC - clean cuts, quick, accurate, etc...

Same with the next 20-25 cuts, then started slowing down (not the saw, the cuts), having to push harder, etc - by about 40 cuts it was DONE. Meantime, the leathers proved to be a good idea (within a BAD idea ) - between running too fast and being Hazard Fraught the blade lost a few carbide teeth, couple lodged in my leathers...

I did go back to HF for "one more time", but those blades were GONE and I never saw 'em again.

I STILL don't have a dry cut saw, (retired now, smaller "toy fund") but when I do it'll be the better model Evolution. Stronger base, better vise, less "homeowner" gimmicks. It's this one - note the better price in SECOND link...

Evolution Power Tools EVOSAW38 15-Inch Steel Cutting Chop Saw - Power Circular Saws - Amazon.com

Evolution EVOSAW38 | Evolution Power Tools | Evolution 15

I "kicked the tires" on one at my local dealer (they wanted $470 for it and wouldn't come down) - unlike a few others I've seen, NOTHING about it seemed "homeownerish", just a solid tool... Steve

BTW, I think that if a HF blade running at 3 TIMES its optimum speed in a so-so Ryobi saw lasts for 30 cuts, a REAL blade on a REAL saw at CORRECT speed with a GOOD hold-down system should be a LOT longer-lived...

BukitCase - your second saw link at discount steel is where I bought mine.

They also had the best deal on 15" replacement blades too.

I have decided on that one too... thanks for posting the discount steel website... that's a great price with free shipping too.

Dave, how is the hold down clamp? Solid?

 

[BukitCase]

Dragon, the amazon link has a good pic of the vise setup - notice that the stationary jaw doesn't require a wrench - also, that saw has a quick-close pawl that some of the others don't have - see the top pic for that... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

I put a chop saw blade on a mitre saw once and hated it. For most things I cut with a horizontal band saw. Got a portaband also. Some things just require a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder though. Got 3 4.5" angle grinders, one with a grinding wheel, one with a wire wheel, one with a cutoff wheel.

I'm thinking of getting one of those mitre saws with a metal cutting blade. I've got one of the blades to test in my wood cutting mitre saw. If I like that I'll probably get the actual saw made for it. I want that to make more accurate angles than the band saw.

Definitely need something to hold up long pieces in the horizontal band saw. I was given a roller stand made for a mitre saw. Too tall for the band saw. With unlevel dirt floor I needed a way to adjust the height. I had just recently found an old floor jack that still worked. Welded a piece of rectangle tube to the floor jack to raise it up about a foot, and welded the top of the roller stand to that. With long heavy pieces I can place one end on the band saw, then get the other end on the roller and jack it up until it's level.

I made a couple of 14" x2" roller tables for my bandsaw. I'd LIKE to get an
Ellis but I'll probably just stick it out with the 7x12 import saw I bought 20 years ago.