New Farm and Need a Tractor..

   / New Farm and Need a Tractor..
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Some good information guys! I really appreciate it!

I am going back and forth on cab vs no-cab. Going into the woods here with a tractor isn’t real likely. There are a couple spots where you could get into the edges a little ways but much further and your going down the hill.

Dealer support is going to be a little bit of a challenge. There just isn’t much of anything close here. Basically, you have one of everything here so if it isn’t good you don’t have a another option in that particular brand.

We have a good size Massey Ferguson/New Holland dealer in town but they don’t have a good reputation. The bad reputation they have is pretty much the same theme from everyone, bad service/support after the sale.....that’s really discouraging because if I stay close that wipes two good brands out.

I haven’t heard anything bad yet about the John Deere dealer in town and I guess he has been here for a long time. My gut says that is likely where I will end up.

Kubota dealer is 36 miles from me....


Also to add, I just did some more work with the MF 243 and let’s just say that I will not be going any lighter than it and actually i certainly could use some more weight. I am suspecting that is at least part of the reason why when the previous owner bought a new tractor he went to a John Deere 5100...
 
   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #42  
I have a JD dealer 5 miles from me, and a Kubota dealer about 10 miles from me. I bought my tractor from a dealer 45 miles away and was considering a dealer that was 100 miles away. The JD dealer has a bad rep. The Kubota dealer was ok but I didn't want a Kubota for various reasons. Anyway, I don't mind a drive at all if it means getting good service. Tractors shouldn't need much service anyway.
 
   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #43  
Also to add, I just did some more work with the MF 243 and let’s just say that I will not be going any lighter than it and actually i certainly could use some more weight. I am suspecting that is at least part of the reason why when the previous owner bought a new tractor he went to a John Deere 5100...

Your are a Master of Indefinite Statements.

What tractor work did you do?
 
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   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #44  
John Deere 5100E

2013 - 2018 5E Series
Utility tractor
Previous model: John Deere 5101E
Series back: John Deere 5085E

Manufacturer: John Deere
Factory: Augusta, Georgia, USA
Original price (USD)
$46,110 (2014 ROPS )
$55,048 (2014 Cab )


John Deere 5100E Engine:
John Deere 4.5L 4-cyl diesel
Engine (gross): 100 hp [74.6 kW]
PTO (claimed): 85 hp [63.4 kW]

Capacity:
Fuel: 25 gal [94.6 L] (ROPS)
30 gal [113.6 L] (cab)

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: II
Control: top link draft sensing
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 3213 lbs [1457 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Clutch: electro-hydraulic
Rear RPM: 540/540E (1.375)
Engine RPM: 540@2400
540E@1700

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 90.6 inches [230 cm]
Weight: 7055 to 7937 pounds

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Final drives: inboard planetary
Differential lock: mechanical
Steering: power
Brakes: hydraulic wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS. Cab optional.
 
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   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #45  
Check out prices from barlows kubota in somerset ky. They ship everywhere. I'm in MD, bought my last one from them. Saved $1000+ without switching to geico. Any dealer can do warrenty work, i never needed it.
If i had to do it over again, i might have gotten an M series instead of the L5030 for the farm, but the L has worked out good for dad.
Our hills get very steep, cant take a tractor on a lot of them, some drop almost straight down.
Did get the L5030 from Lashleys, stayed local to the farm for it.
 
   / New Farm and Need a Tractor..
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Your are a Master of Indefinite Statements. What work did you do?

I have a lot of black locust logs froze up so I needed the tractor to break them up so i could cut them for firewood. It wasn’t the work that was the issue, it was the terrain i drove on to get there and I didnt feel the tractor was the most stable.
 
   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #47  
I suggest you post the MF 243 outside-to-outside rear tire width on T-B-N, along with tire type and amount of tread wear. Inquire of other MF 243 owners whether your spread is the maximum width available. With a new, specialized topic best to start a fresh thread.

R1/ag tires can be spread wider than R4/industrial tires.

A 60-horsepower compact tractor with R1 tires and $400 WHEEL SPACERS installed will be significantly cheaper than a Utility Class tractor, more stable with FEL unloaded, and more nimble.

Bulbous radial tractor tires should be another consideration. Radials are low pressure and have a greater area of tire 'patch' in ground contact. Bulbous radials often set tractors an inch or two lower, decreasing ground clearance and lowering tractor center-of-gravity.

You can make needlessly expensive tractor selection choices unless you examine each tractor stability issue associated with the MF 243, which is your reference.


Your money, not my money.
 
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   / New Farm and Need a Tractor..
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I will start another thread inquiring on that information as well. With that being said, I did want to post this up here as well. I just went snd checked the tires and there are two different tires on it. One looks somewhat new, at least compared to the other....maybe this has something to do with what I have been experiencing?

Width of tires outside to oustide is 76”. The data sheet says it should be 76” so probably no spacers?

Also, i will say this, i would not be surprised the least if these tires are not filled...

Right tire

810ACED7-7A5E-4B8B-BD57-5AB0D154008F.jpeg

Left tire

C2CEF244-447D-4CB7-8ACC-B731127C78B1.jpeg
 
   / New Farm and Need a Tractor.. #49  
No spacers.

76" will be the 'standard' spread with R1/ag tires, not the widest posible. It is a tractor data convention that tire spreads are always given with R1/ag tires.

Air in the tires, rather than liquid, will decrease feel of stability on slopes, as will having a rear tire on one side with more grip than the rear tire on the other side. Sometimes there can be enough difference in tire wear to cause a tractor to cant to one side, which throws off weight distribution putting more weight on the poor tire and less weight on the good tire, decreasing traction. In your second photo it appears tread differential is at least 1". Old, hard tire rubber does not grip as well as more pliant tire rubber. Low temperatures increase rubber stiffness.

LINK: tractor rear wheel spreads - Google Search


Few 5,000 pound tractors have wheel spacers because this category is primarily used in flat fields.

I was in the expansive Palouse wheat country of eastern Washington state recently. I speculate most 5,000++ pound tractors in the Palouse have wheels spacers installed in order to operate grain drills and combines on the knobs and precipitous hills there, every inch of which is planted.


Create an informative title for your new thread.
 
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   / New Farm and Need a Tractor..
  • Thread Starter
#50  
I did create the new thread but it appears we have the answer as far as spacing goes..

I can’t really change or do anything to this tractor (spacers, filling tires, etc.) so i will have to just assume that this tractor could get more stable but how much more and would it be sufficient (or rather, best) for my situation is still the question.

Lots of things to consder...
 

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