Advice on Grader/Scraper blade

[oosik]

Well - BMAN - I think you are evaluating some worthy blades. There is a very specific reason I choose a 96" blade. When I offset and angle the blade to clear snow I loose significant "grading width". As I remember the effective blade width drops from 96" to about 78" to 80". Because I offset and plow out about 14" beyond the rear tire on one side - the 96" blade will plow just to the inside of the rear tire on the other side.

The advantage of offset - keeps your hind end from falling off the side of the road. Many places on my driveway - the drop off the side is over five feet. 14" from a five foot drop-off doesn't seem like much but its a whole lot safer than the tire riding right on the edge.

BTW - my rear tires are 80" - outside to outside.

Remember - with a rear blade - weight is your friend. However - those 1200 pound rear blades might be a little too much. I know I sure wouldn't want/need anything heavier than my 1050 pound Rhino. You don't want to risk causing damage to any of the components of the 3-point.

Final comment - don't forget the pictures when you get your new blade. Good shopping..........

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ok guys, change of pace with things now. I've decided to go the new route and buy the blade with all mechanical to help cost and upgrade hydraulics along the way. My dealer is pricing all of these except the Allied Farm King, and all 8 foot.
I listed dirt dog with bush hog and rhino because he said dirt dog makes those blades for all of them and he can get it slightly cheaper.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 91-08 (Rhino 850)--- 825 lbs.

Rated for 4wd 70 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board & 3" king pin.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 100-08 (Rhino 950)--- 835 lbs. I assume that is the weight without tilt, angle, and offset cylinders.

Rated for 4wd 105 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin.

Monroe Tufline GB5---- 1190 lbs.

Rated for 85 hp, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin

Allied Farm King 100 series ---- 1287 lbs. I priced both the 80 series and 100 series,. The 80 series weighs 980 lbs but has a 1/4" mold board and I'm afraid it will be the weak point. But I'm afraid the 100 is getting slightly to big for my tractor.

Rated for 100 hp (had a disclaimer that is a very conservative #), 5/16" mold board, 3.5" king pin.


Overall not sure which to chose & hope the price will help weight out which blade to buy for what it has to offer. My dealer says the Dirt dog 91 series (rhino 850) is all I would ever need. But if the price isn't very different I may step up one more size. I know Oosik is very happy with his Rhino 950 with a tractor very similarly sized to mine.

Btw, I only left land pride out because my dealer claimed he could get these a little cheaper and he carries Land Pride. Appreciate all the help guys, hope to have a decision soon, feel free to weigh in. Thanks to

See if you can purchase the blade without the manual adjusters, as in no adjusters at all. Reason being is that if those adjusters are as costly as Land Prides, you can buy after market cylinders for only a little more $$$.

I also highly recommend skid shoes.

 

[BMan2005]

Well - BMAN - I think you are evaluating some worthy blades. There is a very specific reason I choose a 96" blade. When I offset and angle the blade to clear snow I loose significant "grading width". As I remember the effective blade width drops from 96" to about 78" to 80". Because I offset and plow out about 14" beyond the rear tire on one side - the 96" blade will plow just to the inside of the rear tire on the other side.

The advantage of offset - keeps your hind end from falling off the side of the road. Many places on my driveway - the drop off the side is over five feet. 14" from a five foot drop-off doesn't seem like much but its a whole lot safer than the tire riding right on the edge.

BTW - my rear tires are 80" - outside to outside.

Remember - with a rear blade - weight is your friend. However - those 1200 pound rear blades might be a little too much. I know I sure wouldn't want/need anything heavier than my 1050 pound Rhino. You don't want to risk causing damage to any of the components of the 3-point.

Final comment - don't forget the pictures when you get your new blade. Good shopping..........

Yeah I'll be pulling ditches to build our drive way so after sone advice here and thinking I knew offset was a must for future ditch pulling to keep me out of it.

Appreciate it, yeah I'll keep y'all updated. Should narrow it down more tomorrow since I talked to him after he got home, but he said he will work on it first thing.

See if you can purchase the blade without the manual adjusters, as in no adjusters at all. Reason being is that if those adjusters are as costly as Land Prides, you can buy after market cylinders for only a little more $$$.

I also highly recommend skid shoes.:thumbsup:

Definitely will do man, thanks for the heads up!

 

[Piston]

You should ask him for a price on a Landpride RBT4096 without the manual adjusters. If nothing else it’s good for comparison.

I have this blade on an L series and it works very well. It came with hydraulic tilt and angle, and I bought a cylinder from Mtnviewranch to replace the hydraulic offset. I also added the skid shoes which proves very helpful.

 

[Redlands Okie]

I got the wings that bolt on the end of the blade. Easy on and off and makes it into a handy box blade like attachment.

 

[BMan2005]

You should ask him for a price on a Landpride RBT4096 without the manual adjusters. If nothing else it’s good for comparison.

I have this blade on an L series and it works very well. It came with hydraulic tilt and angle, and I bought a cylinder from Mtnviewranch to replace the hydraulic offset. I also added the skid shoes which proves very helpful.

He hasn't finished pricing yet, but I did have him to go ahead and get a price of the RBT4096.

 

[BMan2005]

Here is where we are guys. I'm going to add my likes and dislikes as well and please weight in with advice. Like I've posted my Tractor is 60 HP and close to 9,000 +/- lbs ballasted with loader which I rarely remove.

Tufline GB5- 96- $2,898. I like the 3/8" mold board & 1190# weight, but i don't really like how the main post frame where attached to the 3pt frame is.

Allied 10096- $2,840. I like it has a 3.5" king pin and rated for 100 hp, seems like a really stout unit and weighs almost 1200#. I dislike it only offsets 20*, wasn't sure how to rate that until I found a video on it and it wasn't really enough to get far outside the tractor with some angle. Also only angles 30*. But I feel like for the money it's the most solid unit.

Dirt dog 91-08 (Rhino 850)-- $2,800. Seems like a nice unit several things I like but nothing more than anyone else has to stand out. Dislike it only has 20" of offset. Weight again was 830#.

Land Pride RBT4096--- $2774 all manual option to upgrade each adjuster for $140 per cylinder to hydraulic. Also have to wait 4 weeks for that price for free shipping, it's $3,200 for immediate shipping like the rest which I think I could wait. Likes, 30* offset, has solid 3 1/8" king pin (most do but the dirt dog/rhino 850 doesn't say that anywhere), weight was almost 900#. All around seems like it has everything I would like.

Bush hog 100-08 (Rhino 950)---- $3,400 all manual. Obviously a very stout blade, rated at 105 hp and weighs 950# with a 3/8" mold board. Dislike, honestly only the price, lol.


I want to first think Piston for mentioning the land pride 4096. I only saw the 35 & 45 series for some reason. Overall I'm liking the idea of the Land Pride rbt 4096 which seems to have all the features I would like and the price is definitely nicer than I thought it would be. Seems like it would because good blade to fit my tractor's weight, and do what I need which is pulling ditches, build the road, and in the future keep in in great condition.

Opinions???

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would not even consider a blade that didn't offset at least 30". What ever blade you get, get skid shoes. Worth every cent IMO.

So they would not price out with no adjusters?

 

[BMan2005]

So they would not price out with no adjusters?

Yeah I'm sure land pride would, but for only $140 extra per adjuster to get hydraulic I would just upgrade to theirs and be done with it.

 

[BMan2005]

I think I'm going to get a tail wheel instead of the shoes. I need to level some new grounds and I think that would be the trick. Or are the skid shoes more preferred?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think I'm going to get a tail wheel instead of the shoes. I need to level some new grounds and I think that would be the trick. Or are the skid shoes more preferred?

Depends, does your tractor have draft control? I think that it does, but not sure. Learn to use the draft control with your blade and there is no need for gauge wheels.

I don't think that the gauge wheels are available for the 40 series anyway besides being in the $1000 range. And actually even with gauge wheels, skid shoes are still beneficial IMO.

The problem with the LP cylinders is that they are tie rod units with small diameter rods, which equals a good chance of bent rods.

I can typically get both the angle and offset cylinders and hose kits shipped to my customers for $500 That is two 3 1/2" dia welded cylinders with a 1 3/4" dia rods, having a 16" stroke with hose kits and male couplers. Typically recommend the manual tilt, but all of my blade hydraulic sales have gone to customers with my top & tilt sets.

I'm just trying to get you a better product for less money. Or just buy everything directly from suppliers, I bet it's not any more $$$ than LP and you would have a superior product.

 

[BMan2005]

Curious, why stick with manual tilt over offset?

 

[BMan2005]

Depends, does your tractor have draft control? I think that it does, but not sure. Learn to use the draft control with your blade and there is no need for gauge wheels.

I don't think that the gauge wheels are available for the 40 series anyway besides being in the $1000 range. And actually even with gauge wheels, skid shoes are still beneficial IMO.

The problem with the LP cylinders is that they are tie rod units with small diameter rods, which equals a good chance of bent rods.

I can typically get both the angle and offset cylinders and hose kits shipped to my customers for $500 That is two 3 1/2" dia welded cylinders with a 1 3/4" dia rods, having a 16" stroke with hose kits and male couplers. Typically recommend the manual tilt, but all of my blade hydraulic sales have gone to customers with my top & tilt sets.

I'm just trying to get you a better product for less money. Or just buy everything directly from suppliers, I bet it's not any more $$$ than LP and you would have a superior product.

What is the wait time on your cylinders?

 

[Piston]

As mentioned, Landpride doesn’t offer a guagewheel kit for the 40 series, for whatever reason.

I did exactly what Brian is suggesting, bought a hydraulic cylinder from him to replace the manual offset. I priced the cylinder with Landpride (just went to Messicks.com and used their parts finder) and it was right about double the cost of the better quality cylinder I bought from Brian.
In addition, I now have a rusty manual offset “mechanism” that I can’t seem to find any real use for. If you could order it without those manual adjusters, you may be into a fully hydraulic blade for not much more money at all, than LP wants for the manual adjusters.

I added skid shoes to mine and it does make a noticeable difference. I may build a gauge wheel for it someday just because I have all the parts already, but I rarely use the thing for much more than snow removal anyways.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Curious, why stick with manual tilt over offset?

If you do not have a top & tilt set for your tractor's 3pt hitch and are not going to get it, then by all means go with a hydraulic tilt. Should go with a complete hyd blade IMO. But as I have mentioned, if you have top & tilt, then there is no "good" reason to have hyd tilt on the blade. Having top & tilt works for about every implement that you connect to the 3pt hitch. Having hyd tilt on the rear blade works for the rear blade and nothing else.

What is the wait time on your cylinders?

1-2 weeks. I have everything setting here, just have to find the time to get it all together .


How many rear remotes do you have, 2? Pretty easy to bump that up to 5.

I added 2 diverters to my 75hp tractor. We can add 3 to your tractor.

 

[BMan2005]

If you do not have a top & tilt set for your tractor's 3pt hitch and are not going to get it, then by all means go with a hydraulic tilt. Should go with a complete hyd blade IMO. But as I have mentioned, if you have top & tilt, then there is no "good" reason to have hyd tilt on the blade. Having top & tilt works for about every implement that you connect to the 3pt hitch. Having hyd tilt on the rear blade works for the rear blade and nothing else.

Ok I see your point here. I don't have Hyd top & Tilt, I plan to add Hyd Top link but haven't. Dealer is checking now to see if I can order without the angle or offset adjusters.


1-2 weeks. I have everything setting here, just have to find the time to get it all together .


How many rear remotes do you have, 2? Pretty easy to bump that up to 5.

I added 2 diverters to my 75hp tractor. We can add 3 to your tractor.

I only have one, didn't think to have a second installed when I purchased. I talked with him today about adding a second and he said that would be about $1,000. But he mentioned I could hook the second cylinder up to my 3rd valve function if I didn't need to use that until I felt like spending the extra money.

What are the diverters? Ran tractors my whole life but know nothing about the hydraulic's of them.

Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks

$1000 to get a second set is not what I would do.

You can use the single that you have, add 3 diverters for $1375 and that would get you a total of 4 sets of rear remotes, all controlled with the single set that you currently have. That is what I have on my smaller tractor. I had one and is all that is available for that model and I needed 4 sets. My previous post shows my 75hp tractor that had 3 factory sets and I have added 2 diverters so that I have a total of 5 rear remotes on that tractor.

First pic shows 3 diverters and the second pic shows the gray control grip on the factory control lever. The control grip has 2 buttons and a trigger switch to control each diverter. All pretty simply really. :thumbsup:

 

[BMan2005]

$1000 to get a second set is not what I would do.

You can use the single that you have, add 3 diverters for $1375 and that would get you a total of 4 sets of rear remotes, all controlled with the single set that you currently have. That is what I have on my smaller tractor. I had one and is all that is available for that model and I needed 4 sets. My previous post shows my 75hp tractor that had 3 factory sets and I have added 2 diverters so that I have a total of 5 rear remotes on that tractor.

First pic shows 3 diverters and the second pic shows the gray control grip on the factory control lever. The control grip has 2 buttons and a trigger switch to control each diverter. All pretty simply really. :thumbsup:

Thank you very much for the info! I'm waiting to hear from my dealer on the hydraulic's question about the angle & offset then I'll know wether I'm stuck with LP's or to get with you on ordering yours. I have some more questions about the diverter deal as well I will message you about.

 

[BMan2005]

Just got off the phone going over everything with my dealer. Deal has been made and ordered a Land Pride 4096, manual Tilt adjustment, no other adjustments so I need to talk to MtnViewRanch for Offset & Angle cylinders, also got skid shoes, and side plates. Should be here in a few weeks.

 

[Piston]

EXCELLENT CHOICE BMAN!!!!!