Purchasing a used 2014 4520C

[sbronemann]

Hey all...been looking for utility tractors for a few weeks now. Very partial to John Deere as that痴 all I致e ever driven/had for lawn mowers and my in-laws farm. However-the in-laws neighbor has a 2014 4520C they bought brand new in July of 2014. They致e only put 38 hrs on it since new. Went over and checked it out, fired right up being plugged in on a 0 degree morning last week. All cab controls work, loader functions as it should, plastic still on the seat, couldn稚 see any leaks of any kind, and looks brand new with nubs still on tires. Been shedded since new. We agreed on $19,500 as s purchase price. I think that is fair for essentially a brand new 5 year old tractor. Any advice? Any cons on these?? Not a whole lot of info on them that I can find. Closest dealer is 40 miles away. Will be doing services by myself with Amsoil fluids in all of tractor.

 

[Jesser02Ex]

I’m sure others will chime in, but that is a solid tractor. I have the 5220 open station. The tractor is solid and simple. Being 2014, you might not have the soot cooker my 2018 does. For a cab tractor, the price seems good. 38 hours is nice, but I would suggest a full fluid change when you buy it, this is typically done at 50 hours. Go for it!

 

[sbronemann]

Ya. Just waiting on financing for the a-ok. Gonna go get oil and fuel filters as soon as I get it. How many quarts of oil will I need?

 

[George2615]

Hopefully the financing deal goes through for you. Sounds like a great deal for a 47HP cabbed tractor with only 38 hours. Technically new with that few hours. The owner should have the manuals which will provide you with the maintenance schedule and fluid capacity info. Post back with pics when you get it.

 

[sbronemann]

yep...they have all the manuals and so forth. Can稚 wait to get it home. How do they do on fuel?? I notice it says they only have a 13 gallon tank....

 

[ericm979]

13 gallons is pretty good for a tractor that size. My 3725 burns about a gallon an hour or a little less when I am working it hard like running a wood chipper. About half that for loader work if I'm running the rpms lower than recommended on my DPF equipped model.

 

[George2615]

Eric is right. My tractor is 36 HP, has a 12 Gallon tank and burns about 1 GPH.

 

[Texasmark]

Nice to buy a new older tractor without having to worry about how your emission system is going to play games with you on current model tractors....of any make. Since you added the C to the model number I doubt you could have found a sweeter deal anywhere on anything.

 

[Texasmark]

Ya. Just waiting on financing for the a-ok. Gonna go get oil and fuel filters as soon as I get it. How many quarts of oil will I need?

You should get an owner's manual with it. Expect at least 6. If you can't find anything put in 6 and then add by watching the dip stick. I like to fill the oil filter before installing it...makes for a wet start the first time on the change rather than having to wait for the filter to fill before you get oil on out and into the vital parts. If the front drive line goes directly under the engine crank case, your oil pan may be U shaped and have a drain plug on each side....yellow marked plugs.

Then when you are at the F mark, crank and idle it for a minute or two, shut it off, wait a few minutes and top it off.

The Front axle will be about 2 gal and use gear oil...80-90, or full syn in that range if you want..... if not already specified on the rubber fill/dipstick hootus....probably will have 3 drain plugs...usually painted yellow, left, right and center. Only one fill plug will have the dipstick which serves for both sides when filling....just get on level ground.

The main sump (tranny, hydraulics,hydrostatics, and rear differential all in one) drain is back at/under the differential and yellow too. The fill is on the right rear, topside, orange rubber hootus for a plug. Dipstick is on top of the rear axle, left side on my 6530 and between your feet at the rear of the floorboard on my 2400. Use Premium Universal Tractor Fluid due to the tractors amenities. Fill on that may be about 10 gallons. When you go to change the filter, drain the sump first as the filter plugs directly into the sump and if you pull it all the fluid will drain out.

 

[George2615]

Nice to buy a new older tractor without having to worry about how your emission system is going to play games with you on current model tractors....of any make. Since you added the C to the model number I doubt you could have found a sweeter deal anywhere on anything.

Its a 2014 so it will have emmision controls and a regen cycle.

 

[Texasmark]

13 gallons is pretty good for a tractor that size. My 3725 burns about a gallon an hour or a little less when I am working it hard like running a wood chipper. About half that for loader work if I'm running the rpms lower than recommended on my DPF equipped model.

My 6530c has the Cummins B 3.3 NA, 3.3 liter, 65 hp. Spec in the manual is 0.046 gal/hp/hr. At rated rpms, working, this is 2.9 GPH. No reason you couldn't use the same number. 45 hp at 2600 rpms would be 2 GPH. I'd assume you have the Cummins direct injected engine, naturally aspired like mine, just fewer cubes, same mfgr. (licensed), proportional loads and weights. No reason for the consumption to be different.

 

[ericm979]

Its a 2014 so it will have emmision controls and a regen cycle.

Bransons don't have regen cycles. They have a DOC and DPF and do a low temp continual regen on the DPF.

On a Branson 20/25 series the DOC+DPF is a big stainless cannister above the valve cover with a visible wire coming from it. There's a smaller muffler with no wire there if it doesn't have DOC+DPF.

 

[Hombre]

Its a 2014 so it will have emmision controls and a regen cycle.

No regen cycle on this tractor, or any Branson that I know of. Tier 4 emissions were met by Branson using a "soot cooker" type filter. Injection system is manual, no electronics to foul up.

 

[George2615]

Thanks for correcting me. I wasn't aware.

 

[LouNY]

When you do your service on it many of the Branson have a screen in the sump that needs to be cleaned,
and some models will have a magnet in the belly of the rear end that can be pulled and cleaned.
Enjoy her.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Just FYI, that first filter change, you're going to think Bongo The Gorilla put those filters on. They come off *very* hard. I believe the consensus is that they spin the filters on while the paint is still fresh, so it bonds the paint to the gasket.

 

[ptsg]

Just FYI, that first filter change, you're going to think Bongo The Gorilla put those filters on. They come off *very* hard. I believe the consensus is that they spin the filters on while the paint is still fresh, so it bonds the paint to the gasket.

And they also put them totally dry (in the gasket), which a little bit of oil would help a LOT when removing.

They might have some sort of machine to put them on, I assume.

 

[sbronemann]

Thank you all for the valuable insight. My John Deere x738 oil filter was very hard to get off on the first change. I can't imagine that factory filter will come off easy after being on there for 5 years. I checked the oil when I was checking it over and it still looks pretty much new. But, I'm gonna get some Amsoil in there as soon as I can this week. Will change the hydraulic oil soon as well. Can't wait to get it tonight!

 

[sbronemann]

You should get an owner's manual with it. Expect at least 6. If you can't find anything put in 6 and then add by watching the dip stick. I like to fill the oil filter before installing it...makes for a wet start the first time on the change rather than having to wait for the filter to fill before you get oil on out and into the vital parts. If the front drive line goes directly under the engine crank case, your oil pan may be U shaped and have a drain plug on each side....yellow marked plugs.

Then when you are at the F mark, crank and idle it for a minute or two, shut it off, wait a few minutes and top it off.

The Front axle will be about 2 gal and use gear oil...80-90, or full syn in that range if you want..... if not already specified on the rubber fill/dipstick hootus....probably will have 3 drain plugs...usually painted yellow, left, right and center. Only one fill plug will have the dipstick which serves for both sides when filling....just get on level ground.

The main sump (tranny, hydraulics,hydrostatics, and rear differential all in one) drain is back at/under the differential and yellow too. The fill is on the right rear, topside, orange rubber hootus for a plug. Dipstick is on top of the rear axle, left side on my 6530 and between your feet at the rear of the floorboard on my 2400. Use Premium Universal Tractor Fluid due to the tractors amenities. Fill on that may be about 10 gallons. When you go to change the filter, drain the sump first as the filter plugs directly into the sump and if you pull it all the fluid will drain out.

Thank you for all that info. Drove it home last night for about an hour and 25 mins. Was cruising at 21 mph via Waze app on my iPhone. A bit faster than I was anticipating. Supposed to get some snow today and Monday/Tuesday. Can't wait to get it out and get some seat time with the loader. Definitely need to get all the fluids changed ASAP.

 

[sbronemann]

Does anybody have any cross references for filters? Want to use Hastings or Amsoil filters if possible. Fuel filter, engine oil, and hydraulic oil filter numbers would be fabulous.

I found the Amsoil cross for an engine oil filter, but that's it so far.