Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.
- Thread starter MGH PA
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buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I wouldn’t redo it, but if you’re gonna lose sleep over it, have them do it the way you want it done.
dlctcg
Platinum Member
I did think that it had a piece of flashing from your description...but flashing guides water out from the drainage plane to the exterior.... you may have a piece of flashing installed but it seem to me any moisture that gets behind the siding on to the sheathing will run directly behind your flashing installed. So it will not properly shed water forward of the sub-strait (your band board) which then would allow the moisture to pass behind it & to enter foundation / sill plate joint.
So as you stated earlier: "IF he had zipped the top of the flashing to the wall. However, they did not, so in theory, can't water that gets behind the siding end up behind the flashing and effectively behind both the banding board and the foundation joint?" My answer is yes... I believe you are dead on... (I know you are)
When I said earlier about the flashing being made in one (or two) piece I was referring to wrapping the band board so the flashing was part of the wrap; where it would be a continuous piece incorporating the flashing above & below the the band board... (yes this still should be flash taped to the sheathing) & it would have covered the sill plate joint also.
There is nothing wrong with flashing the way he did... "IF" he had flash taped the flashing to the sheathing... I still don't like seeing the exposed sill plate joint (for multiple reason)... I'm self-employed have two divisions of the company & we repairs way to many water damaged homes here... (even new homes) due to improperly flashed areas...
This is your New Home... you are paying for it; just make sure you are good with the resolve on this...
Dennis
sriddle1
Silver Member
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- SW New Hampshire
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DRIP LINE - My wife and I built an ICF Home back in 2013 using the Build Block Product line. Have you decided how to finish below the siding to grade. I discovered a product sold at Menards called Styro Industries Tuff II White Foundation Coating that is made for ICFs and really does a good job. Below grade I was a bit ****, I first installed Tamko Peel and Stick Membrane then ran a full length sheets of 15 mil Stego Wrap from the transition point above grade all the way down to the frost footings. In the 4380 PIC you can see the peel and stick over the ICF block and then I used the Tuff Coat to cover that seam and up another 1 ft above grade that was hidden behind the siding. My wife and I also installed Owens Corning FOAMULAR 400 Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) over the aggregate between footings and stapled Pex on top with welded wire mesh.
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Thanks, everyone. We got it sorted out.
On to a less serious issue.
Our garage as a framed/insulated stairwell to the storage area above. We made an entry from our porch to the garage onto the landing for the stairs inside the garage. That door is a left hand inswing. We also need a door on the other side of the landing to keep the garage sealed from the storage area above. However, if we go with another inswing door here, it will be swinging into the path of the exterior door, granted it would already have to be open for that to be an issue. I'm almost certain we can't do an outswing door into the garage from the landing since there isn't a landing over it's path, just a step down onto the garage floor. Any other options I'm overlooking here?
Thanks.
On to a less serious issue.
Our garage as a framed/insulated stairwell to the storage area above. We made an entry from our porch to the garage onto the landing for the stairs inside the garage. That door is a left hand inswing. We also need a door on the other side of the landing to keep the garage sealed from the storage area above. However, if we go with another inswing door here, it will be swinging into the path of the exterior door, granted it would already have to be open for that to be an issue. I'm almost certain we can't do an outswing door into the garage from the landing since there isn't a landing over it's path, just a step down onto the garage floor. Any other options I'm overlooking here?
Thanks.
coldsteelva
Veteran Member
POCKET DOOR? No swing=Problem solved.
Perhaps an overhead rollup door? Like on a small storage unit.
New unexpected potential major problem. We had the well drilled in April. They went 460ft after hitting around 180. 2-3gpm flow I believe. Anyways, we finally have the well pump/pressure tank in, and used it for the first time today (well, our excavator did). He was using it to fill the septic system as he was installing. He used about 200-300 gallons, and we ran dry. They let it sit for a little while, and got about 20-30 minutes worth of water and it ran dry again. There is no way we should be running out already with that much reservoir. So, either something is wrong, or the drilling company gave me the wrong information. My guess is, if there's no problem, we may have to look at drilling a new well which isn't in the budget.
I may just list this house for sale after all.
I may just list this house for sale after all.
kevin37b
Veteran Member
Why would they go 460 after hitting at 180 ? I would be asking ? They ran the bill up and left you with no water . Kevin .
zmountaineer
Silver Member
A couple years ago when we built we had a well se up similar to yours with a deep reservoir. I think we were getting something like 5 gpm, I’ll see if I can find our completion report. Anyway, the bank wanted a water test done on it to make sure it was potable so my driller shocked the well with chlorine and told me to run it out until I couldn’t smell it any more after a couple days. I ran it for 60 minutes and it went dry. I was like “WTF”. Was not expecting that. We’ve been living here for 3 years and not one instance of daily living did we run it dry.
