Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attempt.

[Rustyiron]

Re: Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attem

Some tape there would have been good. If you ask them to "un-zip" the first course from the starter (pretty hard to do) they could then tape the top of the starter to the wall for positive drainage. Another very easy option is to un-zip the 2nd course from the first and tape the top of the first course to the wall. This will shed any water behind the siding into the bottom "lock" of the 2nd course with the water can weep out of the weep holes at he bottom of the siding panel.


I can't really see the bottom side of (2nd pic) what's going on there for adding my 2 cents.

 

[MGH PA]

Re: Pennsylvania New Home Build Thread. An attem

Some tape there would have been good. If you ask them to "un-zip" the first course from the starter (pretty hard to do) they could then tape the top of the starter to the wall for positive drainage. Another very easy option is to un-zip the 2nd course from the first and tape the top of the first course to the wall. This will shed any water behind the siding into the bottom "lock" of the 2nd course with the water can weep out of the weep holes at he bottom of the siding panel.


I can't really see the bottom side of (2nd pic) what's going on there for adding my 2 cents.

Good suggestions. I was going to asking them to do something similar, but hadn't thought about doing it on the second course vs. the first course.

As for what's going under the banding board over the ICF...the same exact vinyl will be going there which is why we used the banding board. To provide a visual break.

 

[MGH PA]

Any other suggestions regarding the exposed sill below the banding board?

 

[EddieWalker]

Wish I had something more helpful to offer, but in my experience, when a step was skipped, and it's something as important as keeping water out of a house, the best solution is to undo what was done and do it again the right way. The sooner you do this, the sooner you can move forward on the build.

 

[MGH PA]

Wish I had something more helpful to offer, but in my experience, when a step was skipped, and it's something as important as keeping water out of a house, the best solution is to undo what was done and do it again the right way. The sooner you do this, the sooner you can move forward on the build.

So I'm not wrong in wanting that done? My builder doesn't seem to think it was necessary, so I'm in for another fight I suppose.

What do you propose for the bottom of the board that's exposed just above the ICF?

 

[747driver]

No you are not wrong in asking this error to be fixed properly. I am with Eddie. Anytime you have a transition then that seam or gap has to be flashed to allow water to continue to drain downwards. Bad as it will sound...that band board needs to come off along with the starter siding board. You only have one shot at getting this right for the long term. Don't blame the builder for saying its ok, as he knows it will be a pain to redo but should have done it right to begin with.

 

[ovrszd]

I wouldn't worry about the builder. He'll get paid to redo this.

 

[dlctcg]

No you are not wrong in asking this error to be fixed properly. I am with Eddie. Anytime you have a transition then that seam or gap has to be flashed to allow water to continue to drain downwards. Bad as it will sound...that band board needs to come off along with the starter siding board. You only have one shot at getting this right for the long term. Don't blame the builder for saying its ok, as he knows it will be a pain to redo but should have done it right to begin with.

I agree with both 747driver & Eddie... get this fixed & fixed correctly. Water infiltration is a nightmare...

"Bad as it will sound...that band board needs to come off along with the starter siding board." Couldn't agree more!!!! Are there work around's... Yes... but you are paying for a New Build... Not repairing a mistake on a completed house you purchased...

This would Not be acceptable to me: "Another very easy option is to un-zip the 2nd course from the first and tape the top of the first course to the wall." Vinyl siding (when properly installed) is hung loose to allow movement during seasonal / temperature changes & do to even sun expansion. It should not be nailed tightly anywhere nor should it be mounted via flashing tape to the structure.

IMHO... Correct fix from what I can see in the pictures: Unzip second course from the first, remove the first course, started, and freeze board (banding board). Then properly flash the bottom where the freeze board meets the foundation/sill/wall transition & the top of the freeze board prior to the starter strip. (this is due to the weep holes in the siding panels that will drain on top of the freeze board) If properly bent up this could be done as part of the freeze board wrap either with one or two pieces of of coil stock.

If you need to do a work around fix (builder is not going to correct this... there are way.. but would prefer to see him come good on this for you. my .02

 

[buckeyefarmer]

If I understand correctly, you’re worried about water that gets in behind the siding then getting behind some flashing that’s behind the siding?

 

[MGH PA]

If I understand correctly, youæ±*e worried about water that gets in behind the siding then getting behind some flashing thatç—´ behind the siding?

Yes...

 

[MGH PA]

Just to clarify, it IS flashed (all one piece) on top of the banding board. My only issue is the top seam of the flashing where it's flush with the sheathing wasn't taped.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I wouldn’t redo it, but if you’re gonna lose sleep over it, have them do it the way you want it done.

 

[dlctcg]

Just to clarify, it IS flashed (all one piece) on top of the banding board. My only issue is the top seam of the flashing where it's flush with the sheathing wasn't taped.

I did think that it had a piece of flashing from your description...but flashing guides water out from the drainage plane to the exterior.... you may have a piece of flashing installed but it seem to me any moisture that gets behind the siding on to the sheathing will run directly behind your flashing installed. So it will not properly shed water forward of the sub-strait (your band board) which then would allow the moisture to pass behind it & to enter foundation / sill plate joint.

So as you stated earlier: "IF he had zipped the top of the flashing to the wall. However, they did not, so in theory, can't water that gets behind the siding end up behind the flashing and effectively behind both the banding board and the foundation joint?" My answer is yes... I believe you are dead on... (I know you are)

When I said earlier about the flashing being made in one (or two) piece I was referring to wrapping the band board so the flashing was part of the wrap; where it would be a continuous piece incorporating the flashing above & below the the band board... (yes this still should be flash taped to the sheathing) & it would have covered the sill plate joint also.

There is nothing wrong with flashing the way he did... "IF" he had flash taped the flashing to the sheathing... I still don't like seeing the exposed sill plate joint (for multiple reason)... I'm self-employed have two divisions of the company & we repairs way to many water damaged homes here... (even new homes) due to improperly flashed areas...

This is your New Home... you are paying for it; just make sure you are good with the resolve on this...
Dennis

 

[sriddle1]

DRIP LINE - My wife and I built an ICF Home back in 2013 using the Build Block Product line. Have you decided how to finish below the siding to grade. I discovered a product sold at Menards called Styro Industries Tuff II White Foundation Coating that is made for ICFs and really does a good job. Below grade I was a bit ****, I first installed Tamko Peel and Stick Membrane then ran a full length sheets of 15 mil Stego Wrap from the transition point above grade all the way down to the frost footings. In the 4380 PIC you can see the peel and stick over the ICF block and then I used the Tuff Coat to cover that seam and up another 1 ft above grade that was hidden behind the siding. My wife and I also installed Owens Corning FOAMULAR 400 Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) over the aggregate between footings and stapled Pex on top with welded wire mesh.

 

[MGH PA]

Thanks, everyone. We got it sorted out.

On to a less serious issue.

Our garage as a framed/insulated stairwell to the storage area above. We made an entry from our porch to the garage onto the landing for the stairs inside the garage. That door is a left hand inswing. We also need a door on the other side of the landing to keep the garage sealed from the storage area above. However, if we go with another inswing door here, it will be swinging into the path of the exterior door, granted it would already have to be open for that to be an issue. I'm almost certain we can't do an outswing door into the garage from the landing since there isn't a landing over it's path, just a step down onto the garage floor. Any other options I'm overlooking here?

Thanks.

 

[coldsteelva]

Thanks, everyone. We got it sorted out.

On to a less serious issue.

Our garage as a framed/insulated stairwell to the storage area above. We made an entry from our porch to the garage onto the landing for the stairs inside the garage. That door is a left hand inswing. We also need a door on the other side of the landing to keep the garage sealed from the storage area above. However, if we go with another inswing door here, it will be swinging into the path of the exterior door, granted it would already have to be open for that to be an issue. I'm almost certain we can't do an outswing door into the garage from the landing since there isn't a landing over it's path, just a step down onto the garage floor. Any other options I'm overlooking here?

Thanks.

POCKET DOOR? No swing=Problem solved.

Perhaps an overhead rollup door? Like on a small storage unit.

 

[MGH PA]

New unexpected potential major problem. We had the well drilled in April. They went 460ft after hitting around 180. 2-3gpm flow I believe. Anyways, we finally have the well pump/pressure tank in, and used it for the first time today (well, our excavator did). He was using it to fill the septic system as he was installing. He used about 200-300 gallons, and we ran dry. They let it sit for a little while, and got about 20-30 minutes worth of water and it ran dry again. There is no way we should be running out already with that much reservoir. So, either something is wrong, or the drilling company gave me the wrong information. My guess is, if there's no problem, we may have to look at drilling a new well which isn't in the budget.

I may just list this house for sale after all.

 

[kevin37b]

Why would they go 460 after hitting at 180 ? I would be asking ? They ran the bill up and left you with no water . Kevin .

 

[ovrszd]

Why would they go 460 after hitting at 180 ? I would be asking ? They ran the bill up and left you with no water . Kevin .

Normally that's done to get storage capacity. The well shaft is probably small, 6" maybe?? Hopefully he'll tell us.

 

[zmountaineer]

New unexpected potential major problem. We had the well drilled in April. They went 460ft after hitting around 180. 2-3gpm flow I believe. Anyways, we finally have the well pump/pressure tank in, and used it for the first time today (well, our excavator did). He was using it to fill the septic system as he was installing. He used about 200-300 gallons, and we ran dry. They let it sit for a little while, and got about 20-30 minutes worth of water and it ran dry again. There is no way we should be running out already with that much reservoir. So, either something is wrong, or the drilling company gave me the wrong information. My guess is, if there's no problem, we may have to look at drilling a new well which isn't in the budget.

I may just list this house for sale after all.

A couple years ago when we built we had a well se up similar to yours with a deep reservoir. I think we were getting something like 5 gpm, I’ll see if I can find our completion report. Anyway, the bank wanted a water test done on it to make sure it was potable so my driller shocked the well with chlorine and told me to run it out until I couldn’t smell it any more after a couple days. I ran it for 60 minutes and it went dry. I was like “WTF”. Was not expecting that. We’ve been living here for 3 years and not one instance of daily living did we run it dry.