Extending Gravel Driveway

[Dynasty]

I have an existing gravel driveway that I would like to add a "bump out" to. The "bump out" will be approximately 20' wide x 70' long. The existing driveway is a bunch of #1 and #2 stone topped with 57 limestone. Should I copy the way the existing gravel drive is (use #1 and #2 stone as base then top with 57 limestone) or will I be OK throwing 3" of 57 limestone on the dirt and compacting it with a heavy piece of machinery? The extension will not be heavily used which is why if I can save some money, I would like to take advantage of that.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Probably will be ok with just the limestone being it will not be used much, but it might get really soft with a lot of moisture / rain. I would rather do it right once the first time, so you might want to bite the price and do it like the drive.

 

[Ford850]

I’d use a base of 304’s and then a skim coat of 57’s on top. 3” of 57’s would stay too loose.

 

[chim]

Not sure if stone terminology is universal, but when we built the excavator first placed a thick layer of 3A Modified (mix ranging from 2" down to fine) and then a layer of 2A Modified (mix ranging from 1" down to fine). Everything locked in and it held up well. The only time I've ever used what we call "clean" stone was for drainage behind some foundation walls in combination with Mirafi fiber over that eggcrate plastic. We had a pile left over at the shop and spread it on an area that needed some attention. It was like driving on marbles.

 

[bigtiller]

I have an existing gravel driveway that I would like to add a "bump out" to. The "bump out" will be approximately 20' wide x 70' long. The existing driveway is a bunch of #1 and #2 stone topped with 57 limestone. Should I copy the way the existing gravel drive is (use #1 and #2 stone as base then top with 57 limestone) or will I be OK throwing 3" of 57 limestone on the dirt and compacting it with a heavy piece of machinery? The extension will not be heavily used which is why if I can save some money, I would like to take advantage of that.

That is what I did with the seldom used portion of my "U" shaped driveway. Some years I need to barricade it for a week when the frost goes out in the spring because it gets soft. I do that to keep others off of it. Our vehicles are fine but the tandem wheeled garbage truck and some delivery trucks would cause some rutting.

Most of the labor comes later when the weeds start growing. I spot spray round-up every 3 weeks or so to keep the limestone white rather than grassy.

 

[Cord]

The most important and unseen part of a driveway is it’s base. Don’t get lazy and just spread the stone on top of the dirt. Remove all of the topsoil and put down at least 6” of base stone.

 

[Buppies]

Cord is correct

 

[CADplans]

Cord is correct

I agree,,
my loggers built a road, and hauled over 160 loads of wood out during the wettest spring in local history
The 2 inch stone they put down never even got muddy,,

This year, I capped that road with about an inch of 57's, it is even nice to walk on,,,

 

[CADplans]

Since it is only 70 feet, here is what my loggers did to get over a SUPER wet spot,,
Everyone needs their own corduroy road,,

They did cap the wood with 2" stone, that is a perfect piece of road.

 

[fried1765]

Won't be so "perfect" 20 years from now though, when the wood has rotted out.

 

[CADplans]

Won't be so "perfect" 20 years from now though, when the wood has rotted out.

That is not what I hear,,
They built corduroy roads from northwest USA to Alaska during WW2, and some are still in use,,,

It will not matter to me in 20 years anyway,,, :laughing:

 

[fried1765]

That is not what I hear,,
They built corduroy roads from northwest USA to Alaska during WW2, and some are still in use,,,

It will not matter to me in 20 years anyway,,, :laughing:

Rot issues are much accelerated in the temperate climate of Virginia, compared to where there is frost at or near the ground surface for up to 9 months each year.
Also depends on the species of available logs (trees).

 

[civilian]

Rot issues are much accelerated in the temperate climate of Virginia, compared to where there is frost at or near the ground surface for up to 9 months each year.
Also depends on the species of available logs (trees).

Dad's drive was built in the 50's. It is in a cedar swamp of Northern Michigan. It was built as a corduroy roadbed. Over the years he has added more driveway mix to it. Occasionally he gets part of stick coming up through the dirt. Up until last year hes has been hauling semi loads of firewood logs up the drive. Jon

 

[fried1765]

Dad's drive was built in the 50's. It is in a cedar swamp of Northern Michigan. It was built as a corduroy roadbed. Over the years he has added more driveway mix to it. Occasionally he gets part of stick coming up through the dirt. Up until last year hes has been hauling semi loads of firewood logs up the drive. Jon

I am not at all surprised.
Cedar is one of the most rot resistant woods on our planet.
I'll bet they knew that when they built that road too.

 

[GeeVee]

That is what I did with the seldom used portion of my "U" shaped driveway. Some years I need to barricade it for a week when the frost goes out in the spring because it gets soft. I do that to keep others off of it. Our vehicles are fine but the tandem wheeled garbage truck and some delivery trucks would cause some rutting.

Most of the labor comes later when the weeds start growing. I spot spray round-up every 3 weeks or so to keep the limestone white rather than grassy.

Hey Big Tiller, there is a product I use called pendamethalin, that is a weed barrier film. Spray it once a year on your gravel driveway, any weed seed blowing in on top wont germinate through it, any seed below or tuber, wont come up through it. Its orange color lets you see it go down and how well, and fades ina week or two at the most. Works very well for me in a 12 month growing season in Florida.

 

[GeeVee]

I have an existing gravel driveway that I would like to add a "bump out" to. The "bump out" will be approximately 20' wide x 70' long. The existing driveway is a bunch of #1 and #2 stone topped with 57 limestone. Should I copy the way the existing gravel drive is (use #1 and #2 stone as base then top with 57 limestone) or will I be OK throwing 3" of 57 limestone on the dirt and compacting it with a heavy piece of machinery? The extension will not be heavily used which is why if I can save some money, I would like to take advantage of that.

I can't speak to your climate, or your geotechnical conditions, the existing soil profiles, but I can say the efforts required to install are worth doing the best prep, and using the right rock/gravel. Your local land clearing or Asphalt companies who do the work will be knowledgeable enough, even, the yard you are going to order the rock from, ought to be able to give you the correct advice.

I manage engineering firms who are designing roads and bridges for FDOT, and I don't get to avoid expensive professionals to make sure its correct, even for the smallest jobs. ( I don't really do small local roads anyway, all State and US Highways and Intertates)

My offer of advice to you is simpler, and I have done it myself many times and advised others who appreciated it. I have made many driveways and boat/trailer pads out of Limestone, Coquina, (native to Florida) and RCP. Most all were sandy soils, and didn't require a bedding stone. I certainly don't put down fabric if its not needed. I have built a couple of boat ramps into fresh water using geogrid plastic load support, and that's a little tricky to be in the right conditions, not an over night success, you have to be ready when the conditions are right.

Advice: Use bigger rock if you are using a soft limestone. -If you are driving on it, and not necessarily walking. It will become smaller. ASK the cement plant to haul your rocks, and pay it out of the chute, saves a ton of time. My cement ready mix plants don't mind sending a truck full, the turning drum cleans the inside of the drum and the flights for them of bits of hardened concrete. You wot even notice. For the cost of rocks- buying a good recipe for the long run is no more expensive than the wrong material. You are only doing it once.

 

[bigtiller]

Hey Big Tiller, there is a product I use called pendamethalin, that is a weed barrier film. Spray it once a year on your gravel driveway, any weed seed blowing in on top wont germinate through it, any seed below or tuber, wont come up through it. Its orange color lets you see it go down and how well, and fades ina week or two at the most. Works very well for me in a 12 month growing season in Florida.

Sounds interesting, I'll give it a looksee the next time I get to the farm store.

 

[Fallon]

Advice: Use bigger rock if you are using a soft limestone. -If you are driving on it, and not necessarily walking. It will become smaller. ASK the cement plant to haul your rocks, and pay it out of the chute, saves a ton of time. My cement ready mix plants don't mind sending a truck full, the turning drum cleans the inside of the drum and the flights for them of bits of hardened concrete. You wot even notice. For the cost of rocks- buying a good recipe for the long run is no more expensive than the wrong material. You are only doing it once.

My driveway is now all recycled concrete. It works as well as roadbase. Really cant tell it's not roadbase unless you look close. Use to be cheaper than roadbase, but recently it's the same price & often scarce for some reason.

Definitely get the right material the first time. I put in a load of nearly free river rock in front of the shop. It was muddy & I didnt have the cash at the time for good material. It keeps showing up through to recycled concrete. Not horribly problematic, but it annoys me with round fist sized rocks that dont grade or smooth out well.