Help with small home on property

   / Help with small home on property #41  
Sigarms,

I commend you for looking out for your parents.

I have two houses on my property. My zoning allows for a "tenant/farm worker/office" building, in addition to the actual house where I reside.
When we purchased the farm, our "tenant" building was first up for a remodel. Our plan was to either use it for our own needs, rental or future parental situations.

Now the plan is to use it for myself, now as a man cave/office building and later as my retirement home. I may rent the farm house out accordingly. Have you thought of a scenario for your future, in this building you are proposing?

Ours is one level, 1000 square feet.

We had another building brought in from an Amish Builder. 400 square feet, on a concrete pad, we utilize it as a pool house. It was a shell only, so I did the insides and what not. It is portable/moveable. That cost was substantially less than a stick build.
 
   / Help with small home on property #42  
The 22.5" rough opening is 24" on center. There is also a 19.2" on center and a 16" on center spacing. I'm surprised at the 25" spacing - I've never encountered that before.

As for doors, I have 3'x 8' doors everywhere (I have 10' ceilings) and the builder charged me something like $2k for 12 doors. However, they all seem to be pressed hardboard with a wood spacer around the edge so I'll be replacing the exterior doors with something more substantial and then figure out what to do with the interior doors.

BTW - if i had it to do over again, I'd use a 42" wide door for the front door. The proportions would look better from the outside on our house and is also a "standard" size.

I did a lot of remodeling over the years and got so sick of rotten everything i decided to avoid wood at all costs. I guess doors come in wood, metal or fiberglass? The wood rots, the metal rusts and dents so I went with the fiberglas$, inside and out. I did go with the middle of the road Anderson windows, 100 series, i guess they are made from wood fiber and resin? or something?

I was going to frame in metal until the quote came back 3x wood! I went with 6 inch exterior walls, 10 ft ceilings and 6 foot soffits to keep everything dry...... and i like the look. Fake stone and Hardi plank siding with hardi soffit and trim. That stuff cost$ real money!

It took me a long time to learn to do it right the first time or....wait, if you can.
 
   / Help with small home on property #43  
Big doors are expensive! I'm building right now and have purchased semi hi end brand name exterior and interior doors. I have 10 ft ceilings so i went all with 8 ft door$. Then i figured some day i might be in a wheel chair so i went with 36 in wide door$, everywhere. Not nearly as many options when you get to doors that big.

I spent some serious $ on doors!

Speaking of trusses etc etc. I got a lesson yesterday. went to lowe痴 to buy 2 attic stair/ladder assemblies, 1 for the house, 1 for the garage. They had 6-8 in stock, some wood some aluminum. They were all built for 25 in ruff opening. All 8. So i grabbed 2 of the aluminum ladders, got home and found my trusses have 22.5 in ruff opening.

I'm not blaming lowe's because i didn't do the homework but, seeing everything they had was the same, i sort of figured it was standard. My trusses are on 24 in ctrs. Apparently some zoning allows for wider spacing?

Just another return.

I have been building a cabin and was shocked when I went to buy interior doors. I needed several 32 inch doors. All of the large building supply places said they were special order and the prices were high. Then I found a local building supply place that had a door shop. The prices were much cheaper than Home Depot and Lowe痴 and I had the doors in less than a week. This place also had a cabinet shop and counter top shop. I wound up buying almost everything inside my cabin from them.
 
   / Help with small home on property
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I may rent the farm house out accordingly. Have you thought of a scenario for your future, in this building you are proposing?

Due to multiple variables, we think the house and property should sell, and at worst get back what we paid into it, if not substantially more.

No one knows with 100% certanity what the future holds, but we would like to retire out west (say southern Utah or northern Arizona) down the road. This is the reason why I'm also looking at options for a buyer down the road when we sell the property. Hope that makes sense.
 
   / Help with small home on property
  • Thread Starter
#45  
I did a lot of remodeling over the years and got so sick of rotten everything i decided to avoid wood at all costs. I guess doors come in wood, metal or fiberglass? The wood rots, the metal rusts and dents so I went with the fiberglas$, inside and out. I did go with the middle of the road Anderson windows, 100 series, i guess they are made from wood fiber and resin? or something?

I was going to frame in metal until the quote came back 3x wood! I went with 6 inch exterior walls, 10 ft ceilings and 6 foot soffits to keep everything dry...... and i like the look. Fake stone and Hardi plank siding with hardi soffit and trim. That stuff cost$ real money!

It took me a long time to learn to do it right the first time or....wait, if you can.

This is where I'm an idiot. In my youth I didn't care about how homes were built, I was just having fun while working to support my outdoor habbits.

My wife's grandfather helped me build some things in our current home, and although I'm not an idiot, in hindsight, might have done things differently (although I didn't see it that way in my youth). Give me a hammer and saw, tell me what to do, and I'll do it right the first time, but actually knowing and thinking about the process of actually building something, I'm lost.

My bad.
 
   / Help with small home on property #46  
Down the basement from the living room, the stairs corner 180 degrees. Don't think a chair would work and I'd have to look, but could look at a elevator, but due to house layout, I'm scratching me head over where it would go and costs.

The chair lifts on stairs can go around 180 degree corners. Landings, angles, etc... they do it all.
 
   / Help with small home on property #47  
The chair lifts on stairs can go around 180 degree corners. Landings, angles, etc... they do it all.

Also, stair lifts are easily removed and the holes patched when they are no longer needed.
 
   / Help with small home on property #48  
Elevators are super expensive. We entertained the idea in our barn. You need more structural support too. And the hole they leave is bigger than a patch job. LOL.
 
   / Help with small home on property #49  
...
Speaking of trusses etc etc. I got a lesson yesterday. went to lowe痴 to buy 2 attic stair/ladder assemblies, 1 for the house, 1 for the garage. They had 6-8 in stock, some wood some aluminum. They were all built for 25 in ruff opening. All 8. So i grabbed 2 of the aluminum ladders, got home and found my trusses have 22.5 in ruff opening.

I'm not blaming lowe's because i didn't do the homework but, seeing everything they had was the same, i sort of figured it was standard. My trusses are on 24 in ctrs. Apparently some zoning allows for wider spacing?

Just another return.

Before returning them, I would recheck my measurements. I do not believe there is such a thing as an attic stair that will only fit in a 25 inch opening. Your 24 inch on center trusses are the norm all over the country. Easily 90 percent of every house built has 24 inch on center ceiling rafters. The only other option is 16 inch centers, which I've only seen a couple of times in my life.
 
   / Help with small home on property #50  
Before returning them, I would recheck my measurements. I do not believe there is such a thing as an attic stair that will only fit in a 25 inch opening. Your 24 inch on center trusses are the norm all over the country. Easily 90 percent of every house built has 24 inch on center ceiling rafters. The only other option is 16 inch centers, which I've only seen a couple of times in my life.

25" is one of the standard size openings that Werner sells.

"While Werner Co. offers a large selection of attic ladders in various lengths and material, they are designed to fit standard rough openings of: 22-1/2“ x 54”, 25” x 54”, 25-1/2” x 64” and 30” x 54.”"

My guess is since everything seems to be out of stock, backordered, etc.... the oddball sizes are all that's left on the shelves at many places.
 

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