Chain sharpening

[John_Mc]

I mark the top of a tooth with magic marker so I know when I've done all the teeth.

That's what I do. I keep a black Sharpie marker to color the top plate of the first tooth I'm going to sharpen. (one of my saws has an odd number of teeth - so I just start where I have two teeth in a row n the same side of the bar.)

 

[dodge man]

I use on of those yellow paint sticks to mark a tooth.

 

[Skeans1]

One square grinder, one round grinder and a raker/depth gauge grinder. There’s a huge difference in having a consistent chain when you’re falling timber all the time you need predictability.

 

[ArlyA]

Ours got so much oil on them, markers doesn't cut it. Most of our chains don't have different attachment/special link either. I've learned to simply watch for freshly sharpened teeth to come around.

 

[Jstpssng]

I have 3 chainsaws that I rotate as I have a lot of tree and subsequent cleanup. After each use I clean using compressed air, then tighten chainsaw, and then sharpen. Before putting the chainsaw away I make sure the oil and 50:1 gas is full. I always use the pre-mixed gallon cans which are expensive but takes the guess work out.

I did learn that the bar itself should be greased and there is a tool for that.
Oregon 26365 Chainsaw Grease Gun

There’s two schools of thought on that. I don’t grease mine, allowing the B&C oil to do the job and have never had a problem. If you do grease do it often as it will create a ring around the sprocket, which won’t allow oil to get to the sprocket.
Not cutting straight is usually from the rakers not matching. A good file guide can help prevent that.

 

[ArlyA]

There’s two schools of thought on that. I don’t grease mine, allowing the B&C oil to do the job and have never had a problem. If you do grease do it often as it will create a ring around the sprocket, which won’t allow oil to get to the sprocket. Not cutting straight is usually from the rakers not matching. A good file guide can help prevent that.

Not cutting straight is usually from grinding/sharpening one side of your chisel teeth, more than the other. The left and right teeth need to be the same for a good cut.

None of my bars have a grease hole for the tip sprocket. Never had that bearing fail either. I replace about one bar per summer for being bent or simply wore out.. We rarely run out of bar oil but it sure sounds funny when you do! . Ya, we're hard on them.

 

[John_Mc]

Ours got so much oil on them, markers doesn't cut it

I just wipe the top plate with my finger, then draw with the marker. It's not a permanent mark, but it easily lasts through the sharpening process. If I had a grease pencil with me, I'd use that, but for some reason, tey tend to disappear on me far more frequently than Sharpie markers.

 

[4570Man]

Not cutting straight is usually from grinding/sharpening one side of your chisel teeth, more than the other. The left and right teeth need to be the same for a good cut.

None of my bars have a grease hole for the tip sprocket. Never had that bearing fail either. I replace about one bar per summer for being bent or simply wore out.. We rarely run out of bar oil but it sure sounds funny when you do! . Ya, we're hard on them.

I’ve had the most crooked cut problems aside from the obvious damaged chain from a worn bar. Once it starts happening I take it off and grind it on my strip sander and that fixes the problem.

 

[dodge man]

A lot of saws you can flip the bar.

 

[ArlyA]

A lot of saws you can flip the bar.

And I've never own one that the bar couldn't be flipped over.