Just got my first tractor. Tips for mowing steep slopes?

[tallguy104]

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

 

[Wagtail]

Mate, operating your tractor, especially on gradients, is all about balance = front and rear weight.

A FEL with bucket PLUS your box blade (a ballast box, carried as low as practical would be better), whilst going up and backing down slowly will keep you safe. Take your time on these inclines and you'll be fine, as long as you keep your FEL & 3PH implement low in order to keep the tractor's centre of gravity as low as possible.

Don't get cocky.

Reversing your front tyres (as easy as swapping the wheels around) will help on braking on steep inclines. It won't harm anything on regular operation. As long as you don't cross the extreme incline you'll be stable.

If it all goes to custard and you do tip the tractor, as long as you're wearing the seatbelt, then the ROPS will save you.

 

[oosik]

I mow around 1 3/4 acres. I have a JD X570. About 60% of my "lawn" is really meadows that I consistently mow. It's all flat but rough ground. My lawns are primarily for fire protection around my house and out buildings. I keep all this area - low and green.

On steep slopes - go slow, do what you can to your tractor to prevent rollover, be aware of "pitfalls".

"Pitfalls" being - radical changes in slope, holes where a tire can drop into, large and hidden objects.

 

[RjCorazza]

Spacers on the rears are generally added for across slope operation, but 20-25 degrees is way too steep to even attempt it. I would imagine that spacers would still add stability going up and down the slope if a wheel were to fall into a depression. They certainly won't hurt.
Increased weight by loading the rears would be a good idea for low slung weight. As far as the loader is concerned, I consider a fel to be a liability on a slope, but as already mentioned you can mitigate this with having something heavy on the 3 point.
Everyone is implying it, but it deserves stating outright... Make sure you are in 4wd.

 

[K5lwq]

Tallguy, are you sure the manual says to back up the hill and drive down? That is exactly opposite of what I would do. I try to keep the weight on my back wheels as much as possible.

I would drive up the hill and back down the hill always in 4WD and slow.

 

[Thomas]

If you have bucket keep low to ground,steep sloes I find it's safer to backup,rear weight of sort big help,4ws for better traction,in doubt don't try it,wear seat belt.

 

[oosik]

Actually - if this is your first tractor and you are new to tractors - it would be wise to stay off the steep slopes until you gain more confidence. The steep slopes and tall grass aren't going anywhere. Learn on flat land and gentle slopes.

My rule of thumb - if it feels unsafe, it most likely is unsafe. And sure will be, if I'm up there and a wheel drops into an unseen hole or depression.

A slope that is 20 to 25 degrees is a place I will never be with my tractor - at least, going across the slope.

 

[Jchonline]

No easy way to say it but tractors and slopes dont really mix well. As you say any little bump can throw things off. Straight up and back down is the best way, but super time consuming. Larger mowing operations use a batwing to help stabilize on slopes but there is no denying physics. Personally I would use a different machine on slopes. If thats not an option go really slow, be sure you have your ROPS up and seatbelt on. Once you get more practice at it you will likely be able to increase speed a bit.

 

[pjbci]

Look in you owners manual about wheel width spacing. There are numerous width’s you can set to by simply moving wheels around to take advantage of the offsets of mounting hardware on rims and the dish offset of the centers. The wider the better up to a point. I wouldnt want it wider than my cutter.

 

[Egon]

The mower should eliminate side flips.
Backing up steep slopes would be preferable. A filled bucket kept low would allow either direction.

 

[RjCorazza]

Tallguy, are you sure the manual says to back up the hill and drive down? That is exactly opposite of what I would do. I try to keep the weight on my back wheels as much as possible.

I would drive up the hill and back down the hill always in 4WD and slow.

All of my Kubota manuals recommend backing up the slope and driving down. I'm not sure what their reasoning is in this, as I think an accident is more likely to occur by sliding down the slope going forward.
I have taken the ride forward down a slope, and it's an eye opener. I have never had the front end off the ground going up a slope forward.
As far as the op's question about a 3 point implement preventing a roll over, the 3 point is free to float up so I wouldn't count on it stopping a roll over. Granted it will take some force to raise, and may bind up and save the day.
Not addressing anyone in particular, but the 2 things that will get one killed on a tractor are inexperience and complacency. For my 25-28 degree 1/4 acre bank I use a walk behind mower... And I have rolled it on the bank once.

 

[Citydude]

As a former right of way mower and heavy equipment operator, always back up a slope. If you loose traction, you want to be able to steer your way back down the hill going forward and not backwards.

 

[RalphVa]

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

I'd back up the hill and then go forward down it. ALWAYS keep in 4wd unless on pavement. Otherwise, you won't have any front brakes, which can be disastrous going downhill because the back may skid in 2wd. If there's a tapering or nearer level spot at the top of the hill. You could turn around up there and go up and down the hill going forward, especially with the FEL on.

 

[John0829]

I would consider the FEL and a box blade a liability, yes weight is your friend but it needs to be low mounted a possible such as loaded tires and wheel weights are the way to go. Mowing steep slopes can be scary, just pay attention to the pucker factor, if puckered up to where your back side has that extra hold on the seat then back away from the situation and come up with another plan of attack.

Several years ago a recently divorced neighbor asked me to mow her place all of it hills and one area 25+ degrees was the milder parts of it, it took time but I could make a circle around on less steep areas so that each cut was made going downhill maybe you can do the same.

 

[ericm979]

The belly mower won't keep you from going over.

If you roll the tractor keep your hands on the wheel. It's human nature to stick your arms out to break a fall but you might get something caught under the tractor. The ROPS should keep you from going over all the way and getting crushed. You should be wearing your seat belt for anything remotely risky (or better, all the time). The ROPS doesn't do any good if you're thrown under it.

If you roll shut the engine off immediately. Don't start it up for a while after righting the tractor to let all the fluids settle back to where they're supposed to be. There will probably be body damage to the tractor if you roll it. The battery can leak. (hose off the acid ASAP). Rolling it is dangerous even with the ROPS- what if you're right next to a tree or fence pole?- so it's best to think ahead and take it easy. Being scared is a good reason to take it slower or do it a different way.

The reason for backing up a slope is that the rear tires get better traction than the front. If you drive up forwards it's easier for the tractor to do a wheelie and then keep going over backwards. An implement on the back won't prevent that and you'd be rolling over right into the implement.

I don't think the rear wheels on these tractors are adjustable like they are on larger tractors. You can get rear wheel spacers though which will help a lot. Filling the rear tires adds weight down low making it more stable, as do wheel weights. A box blade kept low will help lower the CG. Or you can get a weight box. If you have the loader on you have to keep the bucket low in order to keep the CG low.

Going up and down the steep parts is the right way to do it. Find less steep parts to turn around in. Be aware of lumps on the high side and holes on the low side that can quickly turn a comfortable tilt to an uncomfortable one, and be prepared to stop and back up before things get out of hand. Once you have mowed an area a number of times and found all the gnarly parts (and filled in holes or moved rocks as needed) then you can relax a bit

 

[dodge man]

I also think the tractor is more stable without any implements attached. I drive forward up the hill and back down it. The hills on my property I can drive up the steep part and then circle around and go downhill on less steep parts.

In my mine driving up the hill forward puts the weight on the larger rear tires which have better traction, plus you can use the differential lock.

 

[WranglerX]

Drive up the hill, drive down the hill, go slow, do not go across face of slope, if you are losing traction and directional control, you are on to steep of a hill, FEL and rear box blade or ballast box (my preference) will help keep CG low if kept in lower positions.... Wheel spacers will give more overall stability for any work operation using tractor..........

 

[Rdrcr]

I mow steep slopes (similar to yours) and hills with my B2601.

My B2601 has 2” steel Bora spacers and ballast tires for increased stability. I highly recommend both!

When I mow, I remove all attachments (aside from the 60” MMM). No FEL, no rear attachment. I mow the steep slopes straight up, and then back down (I don’t care what the manual says), mowing backwards, using 4WD and low gear. I always pay attention to any obstacles when mowing in reverse. I’ve never had any issues and the tractor is safe.

You’ll only run into issues if you attempt to side mow. Don’t do it! My only pucker factor incidents have been when I’m over confident and attempt stupid maneuvers.

Mike

 

[bigtiller]

Just my opinion, it's to steep to mow.
Control the weeds with 2-4-D and let the grass grow.
Option 2.... get some goats.

 

[ericm979]

One other thing to keep in mind is that the front axle is on a center pivot. That means that it's rear tires only that keep the tractor upright. The front will hit a stop but that's pretty far over.